I will see if I can find that. With the new contacts from Rob, wouldn't this be an unnecessary maintenance task though?
PDIB's Making MODs!
- Thread starter pdib
- Start date
- th_trl_thread_readers 0
- Status
I will see if I can find that. With the new contacts from Rob, wouldn't this be an unnecessary maintenance task though?
I don't have a Reo, so I'll have to defer that question to somebody else. It can't hurt, though. I expect I'll use it or NO-OX-ID extensively when I get a Reo. But that's because it will go fishing with me and will be exposed to salty air/water and probably some fishy stuff.
They should reduce the need or rate at which oxidation occurs but still not a bad idea to use something to keep the mod in top shape. I'll probably switch to cleaning once a month or more instead of every week.
I would use the buttons in the mod and solder to the DNA 30 input locations, personally... Less room for error... as Mundy said, one drop and the alignment of the shafts could be fubared...
Ah I never thought about that. I will be drilling out holes for buttons then on Friday when I go back to work, as that's where the vtr is currently haha!
If you squeeze / roll the ends with pliers where they go into the posts you should be able to (with some muttering involved) get MM into RM2 posts (I had 1 RM2 with tiny holes that wouldn't work with). Just make sure you don't break one of the 3 wires or you will have a hot spot at that point. Easier to hand drill them out though.
Update:
The spring and screw are definately making this hit harder and has completely done away with the need to push the button sideways in order to get proper connection at all (I'm assuming due to the screw). There is a smaller throw for the button press now, and you don't have to button mash at all in order to get a great connection.
Thanks pdib! Everyone should make those an automatic add-on!
The spring and screw are definately making this hit harder and has completely done away with the need to push the button sideways in order to get proper connection at all (I'm assuming due to the screw). There is a smaller throw for the button press now, and you don't have to button mash at all in order to get a great connection.
Thanks pdib! Everyone should make those an automatic add-on!
Rob said somewhere you wont need Noalox with the new contacts. The beauty of BeCu copper is it drastically reduces sparking which causes most of the oxidation in the first place. That's why they use BeCu copper tools on gas pipes and such.
I have used Deoxit for years (20+) in electronics so I tried it on my REO's and it works great. There are different formulations. Some meant as deoxidation (Deoxit D) and some specifically formulated as a protectant (Deoxit G). I use the protectant. The great thing about this stuff is you only need a very thin layer - not as much mess.
Dielectric grease from the auto store works as well but it doesn't have the conductive properties of Noalox.
Last edited:
I've just been using just the Ag/BeCu Spring with the stock screw for a week now. No Noalox. It started to hit a little weak yesterday after a little more than a week so I turned the button a little and its been hitting strong ever since. Probably time to clean it again.
So, just the experimental spring with no other variables is a significant improvement. I'm curious to see how the experimental brass screw holds up. More or less sparking and oxidation at the contact? Anyone look for BeCu screws yet?
So, just the experimental spring with no other variables is a significant improvement. I'm curious to see how the experimental brass screw holds up. More or less sparking and oxidation at the contact? Anyone look for BeCu screws yet?
Last edited:
I had the same experience with the Ag/BeCu spring, had to turn the button a little. No biggie but with the bypass strip from 510 base to silver contact I haven't had a lick of trouble yet (course it hasn't been that long either), and a really soft spring is a plus (at least for me). Wife is out of town this weekend (I can work as late as I want) so assuming I can get caught up with bids I will play with the silver contact at the other end of the battery and hopefully my magnets will be here.
Would replacing all mod springs with BeCu be just as dramatic, or is this a property of sub-ohming only that the contact makes such a difference??
Learned something today, some tattoo guns use 8-32 screws. sterling silver 8-32 screws are out there, but they would need some modification I think to work. There are also solid copper, stainless, and brass screws for tattoo guns in that thread with large flat contact areas.
If the button center post stays perfectly centered and doesn't touch the plate at the top the carries the current then the current travels through the spring since it touches both the plate and the button contact.Why does the current pass through the spring? I don't get it
Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk
Yes, any mod where most of the current flows through the spring would benefit greatly. Sub ohm benefit the most in Vape performance, higher resistances benefit in better battery performance but hardly noticeable in the Vape quality.
Didn't I tell you those 2900 mAH Panasonic NCRs were awesome?
I think they'd be fine down to 0.75 ohms or thereabouts. Personally I don't plan to go that low, but then, no plan of battle ever survives contact with the enemy.
I've used those Panasonics for .8ohm coils and they work just fine. I'm hoping to get a few more here very soon.
Master of Bassets...and not much else.
- Status
Similar threads
