Glad she is ok, scary stuff. Not looking forward to the day my lil girls are old enough to drive/ride in cars.
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Glad she is ok, scary stuff. Not looking forward to the day my lil girls are old enough to drive/ride in cars.
for the ones that already have a dibi , you know already what I mean. For the ones here waiting to get yours or thinking of getting one, I just want to say that Pdib definitely stands by his product. I got mine in round 1 (Peachwood My "peachy" that i vape my peach tobacco in) and he has gone out of his way to communicate with me , offer tips, troubleshoot and even send me a part. Ive had some minor issues that Im sure are from my user error and Im very pleased with how he has stood by the product and supported it. It is a great mod and im sure when i get the adjustments right it will be even better. I just wanted to drop a kudo to the king of dibis.
So.. If you were somehow lucky enough to come into possession of an item that might qualify as a historical artifact, but had been functionally restored by its maker...
Would you put it in your safe, or would you use it?
I'd vape it like I stole it. But I would not subject it to potentially damaging environments
Ooo. Ow. Glad she's alright.
With the o & 0 so close together, I often hit the wrong key regardless of my fatigue level. That's also why I use fonts with a slash zero with my text editor.
Thanks everybody.
Yeah the scariest part was the call was from her and she was so upset and crying I couldn't understand her. Then a cop got on the phone and explained it. She was texting and not looking so was totally relaxed and didn't tense up, that and the air bag kept injuries minor, the drivers ok but she looks like she lost a boxing match. She turned 21 last month so yeah it's a scary time, but hopefully this was valuable life lesson for her.
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A few weeks ago, while I was still hiding from winter well south of here, we finally had a vape shop open in town. It's substantially closer than Home Depot, Lowes, or Radio Shack, where I could have gotten a regular multimeter. So I went there and asked if they had an atty tester. "To buy or to use?" "Both!" They didn't have the AA batteries for the one I bought, but they let me use theirs while I was there.
My brand-new Cyclone is indeed shorted. It read 0.06 ohms. So I messed with it some trying to unscrew the centerpost. I've not managed to get it apart yet, but the more I messed with it, the higher the reading got, all the way up to 0.35 ohms. This is the deck only; no coil, no cap.
Anyone got any tips for taking it apart?
My brand-new Cyclone is indeed shorted. It read 0.06 ohms. So I messed with it some trying to unscrew the centerpost. I've not managed to get it apart yet, but the more I messed with it, the higher the reading got, all the way up to 0.35 ohms. This is the deck only; no coil, no cap.
Anyone got any tips for taking it apart?
The few times my phone has rang in the middle of the night, and I see one of my kids is calling, have been the scariest moments of my life. Always been nothing, need a ride, can I bail them out, but that couple seconds, dread.
Yeah, I've spoken to pdib about it. I do want to be sensitive to the fact that this is now his business. I'm on the list for the genuine article. I basically just wanted to tinker with something in my garage on occasion. I'm certainly not going into production (a. mine won't look nearly as spectacular as pdib's b. I'd never make any money with my rate of progress c. I don't think I'd want to do that for a living anyway; tinkering on the weekends is one thing, all day every day is something completely different). I also respect that pdib doesn't want to disclose, for example, why he thinks drilling through is the way to go... he's running a business and those details are about the only inside information he's got when the mod is designed to be modder friendly (i.e. everyone knows exactly how they work and come apart etc). Dibi was even gracious enough to send me some scraps of Richlite which I almost felt bad accepting.
Mine also won't be an exact duplication as I have no idea where he gets any of his part (especially since I don't have one to look at). It'll be oval with top and bottom magnetically attached and then I'll just figure out what I need to make that work. Then I'll get my OliveR and be like "oh so that's what I did wrong" or "how the heck did he manage to fit all that stuff in here". lol
I'm doing this lightheartedly, no serious business on my part. If anyone see mine and wants one I'll send them here.
I just got done taking the bf center post out of one of my cyclones. I used a very tight fitting screwdriver bit - so tight I actually tapped it into the slot a little very carefully with a hammer. The bit was from one of those screwdriver bit sets (hardened steel). After I had the bit secure I folded up one those thick blue paper shop towels you get from the auto store and wrapped it around the base of the atty and gripped it tightly with high quality channel locks. With a fully seated pan head screw in the top of the positive post I gripped the atty upside down and set it on the table on another folded up shop towel and unscrewed the positive post while putting as much downward pressure on the base as I could while still gripping the channel locks. Once the center post came out far enough to where the negative post made contact with the table, I set the atty on a socket wrench socket, placed a dowel on the top of the positive post and gave it 3 light taps with a hammer and it popped right out.
Once I had it out for cleaning and inspection I noticed a substance that looked like it could have been some of that jell type super glue. Removing it was like removing a really hard, sticky piece of tape. This would explain why a lot of folks are having a hard time with the cyclone center post.
Let us know how it goes.
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All good man, was hoping you would not take offense to my opinion. Thank you for clarification, not that you needed too, but I dig that you did.
I've drilled lower holes in 2 Cyclones and a Divo, I pulled the center pin on all of them. One of them I was about to give up on and as a last shot dropped it in boiling water for 15 minutes. than didn't help but then I placed it in the freezer for about 45 minutes and it came out. Not sure if it was just the cold that worked or the hot/cold combo that did the trick.
I have a problem with the REO Grand I just got, and while I should probably post this in the REO section, I figure I'd post it here because I want to fix it myself and all my favorite favorite electrical gurus are here already.
So here's the background. I got this REO Grand in trade. It's in decent shape, except completely loaded with what I guess to be Pluid (STRONG minty licorice flavor/smell). I cleaned it out with 99% alcohol, and it seemed to be working OK... but I'm noticing extremely fast battery drain (like going through a full 18650 battery in less than an hour), which makes no sense, since my woodvils run all day without a problem vaping roughly the same thing, same atomizers, etc.
Today, it stops firing consistently, so I took a look inside. Notice that when the firing pin actually connects, it's SPARKING. Pretty, bright yellow fire sparks, flying off the top of the battery every time the button is pushed down. Hrm. Short? Well where the heck could it be shorting? So I take the one center screw out, remove the plastic cap thing, and look at the metal tongue thing and it's ok, the silicone sleeve it's in is OK ... I see absolutely nowhere a short could be occurring. It's not my atomizer, I have 3, including the RM2 it came with, and all 3 fire fine in my Woodvils, and all 3 do the same thing in the REO Grand. It's not the atomizer.
Well, I wiggle everything around, reseat it all, add Ox-Gard (don't have De-oxit) to the point, and now it won't fire my flat top batteries it was working with... but is working fine with button tops. This tells me the metal tongue wasn't fully pushed to the top like it should have been originally, since the tongue does not protrude lower than the plastic when pushed all the way to the top. I can also see now that this is what forces you to use a button top battery- the button fits inside the screw in plastic attachment. This plastic pinches the tongue upwards in the center so it can't depress down enough to fire a flat top without being slightly detached on the bottle side. So my REO is fixed, but I don't like it fixed, because I want to use my flat top batteries.
So, if the above makes sense, any suggestions for what else to check would be appreciated. It's not sparking anymore (with the button top, and the tongue pushed all the way to the top), but why would the tongue being dropped a bit lower cause it in the first place?
I started wondering, with all this talk about BeCu connections, whether it would be practical to improve the connection by attaching a very small BeCu strip to the pointy tip of that depressable tongue. If I can get my hands on a silver plated BeCu strip, and epoxied a very thin strip to the very tip, it would drop the contact point lower, allowing me to use a flat topped battery...
So here's the question, would using epoxy on the end of the strip, while the other end of the strip is simply physically touching the original tongue sufficient contact? Maybe with a layer of ox-gard inbetween the 2 metals? Would solder be better? Would it make a difference in connectivity, when the entire strip is not BeCu, only the tip?
Why shouldn't I use a flat top battery in the Reo Grand? Was there a good reason for being forced to use buttons in the first place?
Thanks.
.So here's the background. I got this REO Grand in trade. It's in decent shape, except completely loaded with what I guess to be Pluid (STRONG minty licorice flavor/smell). I cleaned it out with 99% alcohol, and it seemed to be working OK... but I'm noticing extremely fast battery drain (like going through a full 18650 battery in less than an hour), which makes no sense, since my woodvils run all day without a problem vaping roughly the same thing, same atomizers, etc.
Today, it stops firing consistently, so I took a look inside. Notice that when the firing pin actually connects, it's SPARKING. Pretty, bright yellow fire sparks, flying off the top of the battery every time the button is pushed down. Hrm. Short? Well where the heck could it be shorting? So I take the one center screw out, remove the plastic cap thing, and look at the metal tongue thing and it's ok, the silicone sleeve it's in is OK ... I see absolutely nowhere a short could be occurring. It's not my atomizer, I have 3, including the RM2 it came with, and all 3 fire fine in my Woodvils, and all 3 do the same thing in the REO Grand. It's not the atomizer.
Well, I wiggle everything around, reseat it all, add Ox-Gard (don't have De-oxit) to the point, and now it won't fire my flat top batteries it was working with... but is working fine with button tops. This tells me the metal tongue wasn't fully pushed to the top like it should have been originally, since the tongue does not protrude lower than the plastic when pushed all the way to the top. I can also see now that this is what forces you to use a button top battery- the button fits inside the screw in plastic attachment. This plastic pinches the tongue upwards in the center so it can't depress down enough to fire a flat top without being slightly detached on the bottle side. So my REO is fixed, but I don't like it fixed, because I want to use my flat top batteries.
So, if the above makes sense, any suggestions for what else to check would be appreciated
. It's not sparking anymore (with the button top, and the tongue pushed all the way to the top), but why would the tongue being dropped a bit lower cause it in the first place?I started wondering, with all this talk about BeCu connections, whether it would be practical to improve the connection by attaching a very small BeCu strip to the pointy tip of that depressable tongue. If I can get my hands on a silver plated BeCu strip, and epoxied a very thin strip to the very tip, it would drop the contact point lower, allowing me to use a flat topped battery...
So here's the question, would using epoxy on the end of the strip, while the other end of the strip is simply physically touching the original tongue sufficient contact? Maybe with a layer of ox-gard inbetween the 2 metals? Would solder be better? Would it make a difference in connectivity, when the entire strip is not BeCu, only the tip?
Why shouldn't I use a flat top battery in the Reo Grand? Was there a good reason for being forced to use buttons in the first place?
Thanks
.
I have a problem with the REO Grand I just got, and while I should probably post this in the REO section, I figure I'd post it here because I want to fix it myself and all my favorite favorite electrical gurus are here already
So here's the background. I got this REO Grand in trade. It's in decent shape, except completely loaded with what I guess to be Pluid (STRONG minty licorice flavor/smell). I cleaned it out with 99% alcohol, and it seemed to be working OK... but I'm noticing extremely fast battery drain (like going through a full 18650 battery in less than an hour), which makes no sense, since my woodvils run all day without a problem vaping roughly the same thing, same atomizers, etc.
Today, it stops firing consistently, so I took a look inside. Notice that when the firing pin actually connects, it's SPARKING. Pretty, bright yellow fire sparks, flying off the top of the battery every time the button is pushed down. Hrm. Short? Well where the heck could it be shorting? So I take the one center screw out, remove the plastic cap thing, and look at the metal tongue thing and it's ok, the silicone sleeve it's in is OK ... I see absolutely nowhere a short could be occurring. It's not my atomizer, I have 3, including the RM2 it came with, and all 3 fire fine in my Woodvils, and all 3 do the same thing in the REO Grand. It's not the atomizer.
Well, I wiggle everything around, reseat it all, add Ox-Gard (don't have De-oxit) to the point, and now it won't fire my flat top batteries it was working with... but is working fine with button tops. This tells me the metal tongue wasn't fully pushed to the top like it should have been originally, since the tongue does not protrude lower than the plastic when pushed all the way to the top. I can also see now that this is what forces you to use a button top battery- the button fits inside the screw in plastic attachment. This plastic pinches the tongue upwards in the center so it can't depress down enough to fire a flat top without being slightly detached on the bottle side. So my REO is fixed, but I don't like it fixed, because I want to use my flat top batteries.
So, if the above makes sense, any suggestions for what else to check would be appreciated
I started wondering, with all this talk about BeCu connections, whether it would be practical to improve the connection by attaching a very small BeCu strip to the pointy tip of that depressable tongue. If I can get my hands on a silver plated BeCu strip, and epoxied a very thin strip to the very tip, it would drop the contact point lower, allowing me to use a flat topped battery...
So here's the question, would using epoxy on the end of the strip, while the other end of the strip is simply physically touching the original tongue sufficient contact? Maybe with a layer of ox-gard inbetween the 2 metals? Would solder be better? Would it make a difference in connectivity, when the entire strip is not BeCu, only the tip?
Why shouldn't I use a flat top battery in the Reo Grand? Was there a good reason for being forced to use buttons in the first place?
Thanks
What you describe is normal. File the tip of the firing pin and put a bit of noalox on there to stop the arcing. Arcing leads to oxidation which makes the sparking worse and so on. Also place some noalox on top of your battery. If cannot find it in the hardware store dielectric grease from the auto parts store will work.
I read that overnight buried in coffee grounds will help remove the lingering smell.
But what about the idea of gluing a small plate to the point to fire flat top batteries? Bad idea?
I like my OliveR so much I am on the list for 2 more OliveRs, but just so y'all know I am getting ready to make a similar but very different one just for myself. I have been keeping Peter apprised of what I intend to do and so far he hasn't given me any indication he was dissatisfied. Work is back to 14/7 so it may be awhile before I get it done. As with onjre, it will not be a production thing. (Unless someone wants one like it and then I would rather pdib make it so I would let him sole privy to anything special I had to do to make it) If I ever do make a mod for sale, it would not be pirated from others least of all from a good friend. I thought I would mention it since this topic came up and will not discuss details further except with Peter. Please don't ask me about it, and Peter please keep the details 'tween me and you for now. And if for some reason you (worker bee) have just been being nice about it and would rather I not continue you have my phone, email, etc. just let me know.
A good friendship isn't worth destroying over a trinket.
The button is OK, I caught it pretty quick.
Also, I did ruffle the tip a bit with a diamond file and put ox-gard on the tip... it still sparked. What stopped the sparking was pushing the tongue back up the mm it fell on the positive juice side post. Not sure why that worked, but it worked.
But thanks you guys for telling me that wasn't such an odd thing to happen. Just not understanding why it would happen... it wasn't tip oxidation...
Better to just file it and noalox it then fit the sub-ohm kit when that comes out.
Gluing bits of metal is frowned up in metal mods (well - most mods for that matter) as is using magnets on top of flat top batteries. But i do it anyway.
Since i'm sure you are more particular about your looks than i am, follow the advice in line 1
T
Gluing bits of metal is frowned up in metal mods (well - most mods for that matter) as is using magnets on top of flat top batteries. But i do it anyway.
Since i'm sure you are more particular about your looks than i am, follow the advice in line 1
T
I like my OliveR so much I am on the list for 2 more OliveRs, but just so y'all know I am getting ready to make a similar but very different one just for myself. I have been keeping Peter apprised of what I intend to do and so far he hasn't given me any indication he was dissatisfied. Work is back to 14/7 so it may be awhile before I get it done. As with onjre, it will not be a production thing. (Unless someone wants one like it and then I would rather pdib make it so I would let him sole privy to anything special I had to do to make it) If I ever do make a mod for sale, it would not be pirated from others least of all from a good friend. I thought I would mention it since this topic came up and will not discuss details further except with Peter. Please don't ask me about it, and Peter please keep the details 'tween me and you for now. And if for some reason you (worker bee) have just been being nice about it and would rather I not continue you have my phone, email, etc. just let me know.
Oh. Good point. I have zero intention of ever making a mod, I just want to understand what's going on with my mods. And I don't know half of what you guys talk about. But I don't want to encourage anyone to harm pdib's business either.
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