PDIB's Making MODs!

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glassgal

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It is a complete replacement for the firing pin I made, one piece. What you see is Noalox that got there inadvertently. Yes, the sub ohm kit will work for non sub ohm as well and will increase the battery life (More so with sub ohm, but still some with non sub ohm) from less voltage drop.

Great, thanks Mundy:)!
 

pdib

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That's not a burr - that's adhesive. I found the same stuff on mine after I pulled it out. You might have a metal shaving run through your insulator?

I think that's why they're such a B@#$h to get out.

not the adhesive. the burr. On the end of the driver slot at the head
 

Rossum

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SUCCESS!

A sharpening stone took care of that burr. I'm confident the problem was only on the end shown in the photo, but I cleaned up both ends of the slot for good measure. Reassembled. No more short! Wound and installed a new coil; 28 gauge, 5/64", showed 1.35 ohms on the tester and 1.3 ohms on a dna, where it fired fine. Pulled some cotton through it. Primed it. Put some juice in the bottle ("Peaches N Cream", 35-65-15). And...

I'm vaping it! :banana:

OK, OK, I know; 1.35 ohms is a "lightweight" coil. But it's a dead-stock Cyclone with a teensy air hole.

It rawks!
 
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glassgal

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Sitting hear reading all this about using flat tops in the reo. I've been running my Sonys in it since I got it. Umm, am I not supposed to be?

Well, I was running my flat tops in it til today... but that's because the metal tongue part wasn't fully seated up on top over the juice bottle. Once I pushed it up, the other metal part wouldn't come down low enough to make contact with anything but a button:(. (resulting in all the ideas of how to extend the tongue down further)
 

pdib

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SUCCESS!

A sharpening stone took care of that burr. I'm confident the problem was only on the end shown in the photo, but I cleaned up both ends of the slot for good measure. Reassembled. No more short! Wound and installed a new coil; 28 gauge, 5/64", showed 1.35 ohms on the tester and 1.3 ohms on a DNA, where it fired fine. Pulled some cotton through it. Primed it. Put some juice in the bottle ("Peaches N Cream", 35-65-15). And...

I'm vaping it! :banana:

:ohmy: . . . . . .YAY! . . . .. :toast:
 

2pak2zero

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Well, I was running my flat tops in it til today... but that's because the metal tongue part wasn't fully seated up on top over the juice bottle. Once I pushed it up, the other metal part wouldn't come down low enough to make contact with anything but a button:(. (resulting in all the ideas of how to extend the tongue down further)

How bout this http://www.madvapes.com/flat-top-battery-adapter.html
 

X-Puppy

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SUCCESS!
A sharpening stone took care of that burr. I'm confident the problem was only on the end shown in the photo, but I cleaned up both ends of the slot for good measure. Reassembled. No more short! Wound and installed a new coil; 28 gauge, 5/64", showed 1.35 ohms on the tester and 1.3 ohms on a DNA, where it fired fine. Pulled some cotton through it. Primed it. Put some juice in the bottle ("Peaches N Cream", 35-65-15). And...
I'm vaping it! :banana:
OK, OK, I know; 1.35 ohms is a "lightweight" coil. But it's a dead-stock Cyclone with a teensy air hole.
It rawks!

AWESOME! :toast:
 

bustabo

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My BF fail saga continues:

I fiddled with the centerpin a bit more and got the empty Cyclone reading close to a half ohm.

sYsRySJ.jpg


So I dug up my gunsmithing screwdriver set. One of the tips fit the slot in the center pin perfectly. I clamped the atty upside down in a bench vise and started unscrewing. This took quite a bit of force at the beginning but eventually loosened up. I kept at it and after a while, I was able to get the center pin assembly out.

qRLPkoP.jpg


Inspecting it under a lighted 2x and 5x magnifier revealed no obvious source for the short, so I put it back together -- and got the same results as before, now about 0.44 ohms. The only plausible explanation I can came up with is that there's a piece of something conductive embedded in that insulator. That means I have to find something that's the right size with which to drift out that insulator.

Oh, and a rant/digression: The atty tester I picked up... The ON/OFF switch will not budge from the ON position. But since I bought it locally, I'm confident they'll swap it out for one that works as it should. Still, this seems like yet another sign that I should put #0002 in away in the safe for a while.

Do you have a different Atty you can test with that ohm meter?

Those things are not of the highest quality. Could be the tester?

Edit.... I'm slow. Glad ya fixed the problem
 
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Rossum

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I'm not sure whether it's OK to post a link, but I got mine (defective, now fixed) from Mountain Oak Vapors; they show 57 in stock.

Edit/Added:

Mama beat me by one minute. :D

And an aside: It really is trivially easy to ream out the air hole in these; totally unlike my Igo-L in that respect.
 
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glassgal

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Just found a clone at: Cyclone Clone Rebuildable Drip Atomizer by Ehpro

I know I know, it's a clone. But maybe it won't have unfinished burrs you have to finish machining yourself for the $15. The posts appear to be brass tho. With that level of finishing, the clone may be better made.

After seeing that screw, and that level of Q&A, I wouldn't buy it for over $20. I don't mind paying for quality. That ain't quality there.
 
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