Happy belated B'day, Kevin! Here's a pic for ya. OliveR clad in Monkey armor:
PDIB's Making MODs!
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ok.
i figured it out.
I'm trying to put ALL the facts together here, and do some troubleshooting. So, Scandal's mod fires, and then it doesn't . . .. doesn't a lot. Glass is focused in on the button . . . . . something is not right . . . . . toggling. Filthy-Beast has some intermittent trouble, takes it apart, rearranges it (and alters the spring). Now Scandal gets her mod to fire . .. . by pushing the edge of the button (by making contact between the button stem and the grounding plate . . . toggling). THAT's what finally brought it home for me!
Honestly, it was just shear dumb luck (that I didn't catch this when doing "quality control") that all the mods fired in nice v-drop ranges before I sent them out. If any one of them had given me an unacceptable reading, I probably would have caught this. . .. . . . .. .
I had gone through my first aluminum framing square and had to acquire more aluminum for this run. I compared prices on a number of options for 1/8" aluminum stock, and even looked for used/old/character-ridden framing squares. I ended up buying a new one from my favorite hardware store (where I expected to find some classy old used one). As I was chopping it up, and then sanding it flat, and buffing it out, I thought . . .. "is this thing sand blasted? or coated with something?". Between trying to get it truly flat, and anticipating fit with the top of the mod, and wanting to keep it as close to 1/8" as possible (everything's connected . .. . 1/8" is good . . . .. new square, obviously thinner than old square, not even 1/8" to begin with), I ended up leaving some of the "matte finish" on some of the plates. I made sure to get most of it off, just in case, in the areas that would require conductivity. (Thinking, if it really is some kind of coating . . .. which I couldn't imagine the reason for the added expense in manufacture of the squares . .. I'll know it when I test for conductivity. Well, cr_p, I tested all the mods, and they were fine! "Must've been me just being paranoid on the new framing square", I thought.)
SO . . ... after looking at the pattern of problems, I put two and two together, and went out to the shop and tested the square itself . . . .. what's left of it.
Sure enough, sure e-farking-nuff, there's some coating on it! I put the nose of a battery against the flat of the square, and I'm not getting a voltage reading from the other face of the square and the tail of the battery. I tested the square for resistance and it's reading like it would waving the leads around in the air.
WHY DIDN'T I THINK TO JUST TEST IT THIS WAY WHEN I HAD THE INKLING? !!!!!!!!!IDK. Guess I'm stupid.
Anyway, the fix is simple. The problem is isolated. And I'm an idiot. Obviously, I will take care of it personally for anyone who doesn't want to DIY it. It's really just a question of whether you want to do the work, or outsmart the issue, or send your mod back to me. If you look in the button hole (must disassemble button to do so by screwing off the brass nut on the bottom of the cap), you will see shiny areas and matte areas on your grounding plate surface in the bottom of the hole. Shiny areas are conductive, matte areas are not. It only matters on this face of the plate (where the spring wants to touch). . . . . . and it only matters on this one run. .. . . . I'm so totally sorry, but lesson learned.
OPTIONS:
make sure the spring lands on the shiny area. (by altering the spring, rotating it, or spinning your button for a few days until that f-cker grinds off the finish in it's footprint)
buff off the clear coat (make it shiny).
send it back to me (just the cap will do).
I am sincerely sorry about this mistake on my part . . . . . . . .
I pulled my button and looked in the hole from the top. Yup, some shiny, some not, about half and half. Used VERY fine sandpaper taped to the end of a qtip to get rid of the non-shiny, and then followed with a bit of Sunshine cloth to buff. It fires MUCH easier now.
Thanks, Pdib!
(We'll forgive ya.
)
ok.
i figured it out.
I'm trying to put ALL the facts together here, and do some troubleshooting. So, Scandal's mod fires, and then it doesn't . . .. doesn't a lot. Glass is focused in on the button . . . . . something is not right . . . . . toggling. Filthy-Beast has some intermittent trouble, takes it apart, rearranges it (and alters the spring). Now Scandal gets her mod to fire . .. . by pushing the edge of the button (by making contact between the button stem and the grounding plate . . . toggling). THAT's what finally brought it home for me!
Honestly, it was just shear dumb luck (that I didn't catch this when doing "quality control") that all the mods fired in nice v-drop ranges before I sent them out. If any one of them had given me an unacceptable reading, I probably would have caught this. . .. . . . .. .
I had gone through my first aluminum framing square and had to acquire more aluminum for this run. I compared prices on a number of options for 1/8" aluminum stock, and even looked for used/old/character-ridden framing squares. I ended up buying a new one from my favorite hardware store (where I expected to find some classy old used one). As I was chopping it up, and then sanding it flat, and buffing it out, I thought . . .. "is this thing sand blasted? or coated with something?". Between trying to get it truly flat, and anticipating fit with the top of the mod, and wanting to keep it as close to 1/8" as possible (everything's connected . .. . 1/8" is good . . . .. new square, obviously thinner than old square, not even 1/8" to begin with), I ended up leaving some of the "matte finish" on some of the plates. I made sure to get most of it off, just in case, in the areas that would require conductivity. (Thinking, if it really is some kind of coating . . .. which I couldn't imagine the reason for the added expense in manufacture of the squares . .. I'll know it when I test for conductivity. Well, cr_p, I tested all the mods, and they were fine! "Must've been me just being paranoid on the new framing square", I thought.)
SO . . ... after looking at the pattern of problems, I put two and two together, and went out to the shop and tested the square itself . . . .. what's left of it.
Sure enough, sure e-farking-nuff, there's some coating on it! I put the nose of a battery against the flat of the square, and I'm not getting a voltage reading from the other face of the square and the tail of the battery. I tested the square for resistance and it's reading like it would waving the leads around in the air.
WHY DIDN'T I THINK TO JUST TEST IT THIS WAY WHEN I HAD THE INKLING? !!!!!!!!!
Anyway, the fix is simple. The problem is isolated. And I'm an idiot. Obviously, I will take care of it personally for anyone who doesn't want to DIY it. It's really just a question of whether you want to do the work, or outsmart the issue, or send your mod back to me. If you look in the button hole (must disassemble button to do so by screwing off the brass nut on the bottom of the cap), you will see shiny areas and matte areas on your grounding plate surface in the bottom of the hole. Shiny areas are conductive, matte areas are not. It only matters on this face of the plate (where the spring wants to touch). . . . . . and it only matters on this one run. .. . . . I'm so totally sorry, but lesson learned.
OPTIONS:
make sure the spring lands on the shiny area. (by altering the spring, rotating it, or spinning your button for a few days until that f-cker grinds off the finish in it's footprint)
buff off the clear coat (make it shiny).
send it back to me (just the cap will do).
I am sincerely sorry about this mistake on my part . . . . . . . .
This explains alot to me. I can no longer replicate what I thought I was doing, which was I thought I was pushing the button too hard and breaking contact at the bottom plate. I fiddled with the button ALOT like spinning it roundy round, took it apart several times, cleaned the aluminum area where spring contact with alcohol, etc. Noticed my fiddling wore a groove in the aluminum so I must have cut through the coating with the spring. I can say now that I haven't had a misfire in two days and no bottom screw.
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Why are those of us with the old-school copper ground plate and the original screw-head contact that ALWAYS works feeling kinda smug right now?
because you enjoy cleaning/polishing metal constantly?
just teasin ya, but I wanted aluminum based on color alone. Would have chose stainless if that was an option.
Mines a mashup- original copper plate with the new spring/ button. I ain't got no troubles
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glue a tiny disc of very fine sandpaper to the flat end of a new pencils eraser head, then you can easily polish that flat button landing area to shiny, dab a little noloax/oxyguard whatever and no more issues. I'd say at least 800 grit or better, I'd use ~1,200 givewn the choice, don't want to make deep micro scratches. you can hold the mod between your knees and use both hands on the pencil with it in between your palms, "rub" your hands together back and forth to spin the pencil back and forth to be able to polish it all the way to the edges of the inner flat buttons landing boss
Well, since I used to carry a brass Zippo, I don't find the DiBi's metal bits to be much of a bother.
My newish silver contact & BeCu spring with the original alum square fires perfectly. Every button press I get max voltage. No intermittence. It's like its a switch. It is far better than the alum screw that came with the mod. I experienced some intermittence with it that I dealt with either by rotating the contact and button as a whole or pressing the button off center.
I also cleaned that screw with a pencil eraser every few days.
The silver contact looked as good today as it did when I installed it.
I remember when I installed the silver screw upside down it was even more intermittent than the alum screw. All it took was removing it, turning it upside down and reinstalling it. Perfection.
I also cleaned that screw with a pencil eraser every few days.
The silver contact looked as good today as it did when I installed it.
I remember when I installed the silver screw upside down it was even more intermittent than the alum screw. All it took was removing it, turning it upside down and reinstalling it. Perfection.
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Thanks for all the birthvapesversaryday wishes all! No simian today. Hopefully soon.
Dibby, will mine require the modification to fire properly? If so, i an going to find some fine sand paper before the mod arrives.
Sent from the zoo using Tapatypo 2
Dibby, will mine require the modification to fire properly? If so, i an going to find some fine sand paper before the mod arrives.
Sent from the zoo using Tapatypo 2
Oh please! You do pink very well! How *you* doin'? :/wink
Post that pink pic for me...... you know the one I'm talking about!
Sent from a BIG phone.....Galaxy Note 3
Goodnight all. I guess i'll have to find another way to entertain myself until the simian arrives...
Sent from the zoo using Tapatypo 2
Sent from the zoo using Tapatypo 2
Xobe, if you want to be prepared, you may as well get some kind of abrasive (paste, sandpaper, whatever). I sent the original aluminum screw contact out in the goody bag. The underside of the head on that is textured. One might be able to drop that into the empty hole with the threading sticking out the bottom and pull on the threads and twist (spin) .. . . ? . . .. using it kin'a like a soft, spinning file . .. . . ?
In a desert pinch, one could also just use the spring as a "gouge" (kin'a like timk did). Spin the button until you see a shiny circle down there. Also, too, if you look in your button hole, and see how much is shiny and not, maybe you can position the spring/button so that it's pretty sure to rest on the shinier areas.
In a desert pinch, one could also just use the spring as a "gouge" (kin'a like timk did). Spin the button until you see a shiny circle down there. Also, too, if you look in your button hole, and see how much is shiny and not, maybe you can position the spring/button so that it's pretty sure to rest on the shinier areas.
Mine's copper. Thought I had fixed it with the button fix but if I let the mod sit I'd get it again.
Turns out that reseating the bottom would fix it. So the next time it happened I pulled the top and tested from the battery to the center bolt with a volt meter, sure enough no connection.
Slight clockwise adjustment of the center screw fixed it. I turned it enough to get good contact but not enough to cause the base to separate or rock.
If you do this you might also need to adjust the top nylon screw out or counter clockwise a hair to make sure the copper leaf touches the top of the center bolt.
I'm sure this was caused by a subtle change in the wood from either humidity or atmospheric pressure.
All fixed here and blowing clouds.
Turns out that reseating the bottom would fix it. So the next time it happened I pulled the top and tested from the battery to the center bolt with a volt meter, sure enough no connection.
Slight clockwise adjustment of the center screw fixed it. I turned it enough to get good contact but not enough to cause the base to separate or rock.
If you do this you might also need to adjust the top nylon screw out or counter clockwise a hair to make sure the copper leaf touches the top of the center bolt.
I'm sure this was caused by a subtle change in the wood from either humidity or atmospheric pressure.
All fixed here and blowing clouds.
That's yet another problem I've had! You get it to fire, and then it sits for a while, and then you have to fire multiple times to get the atomizer to release any vapor... but it's firing at such a low grade that by the time you get 1 mouthful of vapor, the atomizer is boiling hot. Meanwhile, my batteries are lasting all of 20 minutes. I have 4 charging right now and no batteries to use, and that's in the last 2 hours of trying to vape this. I have no idea what's going on, but there's no part of this that's making me happy except the overall look/design.
Will try the center screw.
Sound like your getting a lot of voltage drop and that will happen with a bad connection. There really only 4 point to worry about.
1. fuse, is it good?
2. connection from small screw side of fuse to center bolt
3. Connection from top of bolt to copper leaf that rides on the nylon screw
4. button to top plate that is either copper or aluminum
To help trouble shoot if the issue is contact with the center bolt without the use of a volt meter. Adjust the center bolt down so the bottom is slightly pushed. adjust the top nylon screw so the top is slightly raised. Now if vapes like a beast every time it was one of those connections. Now slowly adjust them so the top and bottom seat and you still have good connections.
1. fuse, is it good?
2. connection from small screw side of fuse to center bolt
3. Connection from top of bolt to copper leaf that rides on the nylon screw
4. button to top plate that is either copper or aluminum
To help trouble shoot if the issue is contact with the center bolt without the use of a volt meter. Adjust the center bolt down so the bottom is slightly pushed. adjust the top nylon screw so the top is slightly raised. Now if vapes like a beast every time it was one of those connections. Now slowly adjust them so the top and bottom seat and you still have good connections.
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