PDIB's Making MODs!

[glassgal]

As far as greasing your mod up while trying to diagnose it, I'm not sure that's a good idea, Glass. As far as using 2,3,4 different brands and types of grease, I know that's a bad idea. I used to use Ox-Guard instead of Noalox (cause that's what I found). After switching to Noalox, I realized that the Ox-Guard SUCKS for our purposes. I think it actually decreased conductivity. Most of these greases AREN'T formulated to conduct electricity. Please wipe that stuff off and don't add factor Y when you're testing for factor X. General rule about diagnosing any system is to remove as many eccentric factors as possible.

Turbocad, thanks for the great suggestion. Get the mod firing and tested with those adjustable contacts a little proud, then set the depths to your liking. (I've suggested that before to people; just didn't get there yet in this context)

And Glass, please do one thing to completion at a time. Meaning, sanding the bottom of the button hole for a while (but not fully), and then starting to fiddle with something else . . .. now you've got two "?" factors and can't diagnose either.

Well, it's working ok now... only problem is the button is very hard to press still, but if I hold the bottom, it fires pressing down hard, so I think most of my problems are eliminated. As for the power... it's much better, so it's closer.

Ok, thanks for the heads up on the ox-gard. It seems to work well on everything, but that's because it's the only point of reference I have... don't have Noalox. I also have the permatek dielectric grease, which is what ended up helping the most... so I'll go put the ox-gard somewhere else and stick to that (unless you don't like that either?).

I do tend to bounce all over the place when trying to figure out what's wrong... but it's working now. Will see if the battery is still being eaten up... but I don't think so... I still think all the problems are at the button...

How's the toggle test coming?

 

[pdib]

Glass (and everyone), if your button hole base (aluminum) is clean, sanded out, or button-spun (to where there's a shiny ring where the spring seats), then you really can't be having conductivity problems there, that I can think of. If the button is hard to press with the silver screw contact, then you just need to extend that contact a little bit. Loosen off the brass nut, extend the silver screw, reset the brass nut (takes a little futzing sometimes). Don't just leave the mod unattended until you're sure it won't autofire (if you extended the contact to far, and it's always touching.) If you get it to where the button only needs the slightest press, it's not going to feel hard to press. Conversely, you can shorten your spring like FB said.

 

[MamaTried]

GG- did you buy your Reo Grand new? if new, it came with a little baggie of noalox. thanks to my old man eyes, i bought 4 or 5 Grands before i realized what it was. i thought it was just a smudge on the business card

a lifetime supply can be found at HD or Lowe's in the electrical section, although the salespeople will swear they don't carry it. or i'd be happy to send you some.

 

[Filthy-Beast]

I did both so I still have more travel and an easier press. I figure this way a slight accidental press in a pocket won't fire it.

 

[supertrunker]

When i got mine it came with the screw button and plastic spacer. I ditched the spacer to make the throw nicer for me.

Every subsequent change has been made without messing about with the screw that runs centrally in the Dibi - i set my leaf contact and plastic nylon screw and left them alone. See MoN for why!

I now run it with a silver pin but it would fire all the time with certain batteries: solution - ditch the washer under the bottom battery screw. The silver coated Becu spring is harder to press, but i like that since it will not accidentally fire. It will break in, or you will get stronger, or you'll chop a bit off!

T

 

[glassgal]

GG- did you buy your Reo Grand new? if new, it came with a little baggie of noalox. thanks to my old man eyes, i bought 4 or 5 Grands before i realized what it was. i thought it was just a smudge on the business card

a lifetime supply can be found at HD or Lowe's in the electrical section, although the salespeople will swear they don't carry it. or i'd be happy to send you some.

No, I got my Reo Grand in trade for a spare Provari... it DID come with a baggie with a black smear on it tho... so that's Noalox?

I like my giant squish of Permatex Dielectric grease ok so far... where are you putting the Noalox? And thanks for the offer... but it's working fine now (cept the button is STTIIFFF and I'd like a toggle...) .

 

[supertrunker]

I'm not sure I actually like this better than the patina it had on it when I received it, but that patina was getting kinda splotchy in places, and patina is like a beard; if you shave it off, it grows back.

I thought that about haircuts too. My error.

T

 

[supertrunker]

For Reos, it was common to use it on the tip of a freshly filed firing pin.

Swap 'common' for 'a necessity' and you realise all the hoo-hah about new firing pins.

T

 

[glassgal]

For Reos, it was common to use it on the tip of a freshly filed firing pin.

Swap 'common' for 'a necessity' and you realise all the hoo-hah about new firing pins.

T

Yah... I squished the Ox-Gard on that and it worked fine. I squished Ox-Gard on the new sub-ohm kit top too... which is WAY better because it's got that nice curl at the tip already, and not a sharp pointy tip.

 

[MamaTried]

No, I got my Reo Grand in trade for a spare Provari... it DID come with a baggie with a black smear on it tho... so that's Noalox?

I like my giant squish of Permatex Dielectric grease ok so far... where are you putting the Noalox? And thanks for the offer... but it's working fine now (cept the button is STTIIFFF and I'd like a toggle...) .

yup. that's noalox. for a (pre-upgraded) Reo, a dab from a toothpick on the firing pin is all you need. some folks smear it on the surface of the battery whose end is on the make/break connection, which would be pos on a Reo. i'll let the dibi pros chime in where/how/whether not it is suitable on the dibi. i've only used a pencil eraser on my dibi.

 

[supertrunker]

Wonder who thought of that? I have to say the new contacts have given my Reo a new lease of life, but it isn't a solid silver threaded bar! It's also fair to say that nobody has yet wrecked the new spring on one.

I have too many competing demands on my time just now to justify running 0.2Ω coils at work just to see....not to mention when a 24 yr old at work asks me what he ought to buy to make huge clouds, crematorium was likely not the answer he wanted.

T

 

[MamaTried]

Wonder who thought of that? I have to say the new contacts have given my Reo a new lease of life, but it isn't a solid silver threaded bar! It's also fair to say that nobody has yet wrecked the new spring on one.

I have too many competing demands on my time just now to justify running 0.2Ω coils at work just to see....not to mention when a 24 yr old at work asks me what he ought to buy to make huge clouds, crematorium was likely not the answer he wanted.

T

LOL. if i ever get out more, i hope to steal that one

 

[glassgal]

Wonder who thought of that? I have to say the new contacts have given my Reo a new lease of life, but it isn't a solid silver threaded bar! It's also fair to say that nobody has yet wrecked the new spring on one.

I have too many competing demands on my time just now to justify running 0.2Ω coils at work just to see....not to mention when a 24 yr old at work asks me what he ought to buy to make huge clouds, crematorium was likely not the answer he wanted.

T

Didn't SeaNap say he wrecked the 24K plated spring already? If not him, was someone else... but yep... someone did it already...

I wrecked 2 fuses on the Dibi already - today testing it with the voltmeter... no one told me I couldn't stick them both on the 510 wall til after it blew. My husband came home while I was fixing it, and said there's a 9v battery in that voltmeter, so probably a good idea not to go shorting that on the 3.7v in the dibi, at which point, I promptly put that thing back in the garage... the good news is, I can change a dibi fuse in under a minute now... LOL!

 

[SeaNap]

Yep that was me That's one of the reasons I love the simplicity of the 10A car fuse. I don't feel like I just destroyed gold...

GG , that volt meter is just fine to use. The 9v is just there to power it's circuit board and display. What you did was short out (touch) + and - with one of the leads. Happens to the best of us...

 

[glassgal]

Yep that was me That's one of the reasons I love the simplicity of the 10A car fuse. I don't feel like I just destroyed gold...

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Well, is there enough of the spring to use as a spare dibi spring? 24K plated gold should do better than beryllium copper maybe?

 

[supertrunker]

Square spring would have been ok.

T

 

[timk]

Personally would not grease up my OliveR, not needed and will attract dust and make conductivity worse. Unless you clean it all the time. Noalox on make/break contacts and deoxit gold on fixed contacts would be the only thing I'd consider. However the silver hasn't shown a need and the brass bits are to be determined but I doubt it would be worth the mess. Just my opinion.

 

[MamaTried]

Personally would not grease up my OliveR, not needed and will attract dust and make conductivity worse. Unless you clean it all the time. Noalox on make/break contacts and deoxit gold on fixed contacts would be the only thing I'd consider. However the silver hasn't shown a need and the brass bits are to be determined but I doubt it would be worth the mess. Just my opinion.

yeh, i might have expected MoN to grease everything up, but like you said, that's a personal issue

 

[MasterofNone]

I'm not a big fan of additional lubricants.


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[supertrunker]

Cleaning it?? pfft.

Naturally the eraser i bought for that was a trapezoid 2" x 1/2" x 1" - and it's totally useless. Unless i chop it up and HRH has banned me from the kitchen remember!

Noalox is messy on brass, so nope.

i do use it on the internals of the firing button, just because i have to get rid of it.

And to all those "oh well the later runs will have far fewer problems than those greedy/fast/ peeps that got the first runs"

T