PDIB's Making MODs!

[pdib]

the truth is, wood is wood. my wood was stabilized and it's a pretty good block but still, where it broke each time is at thin areas, don't think that another wood would be so much better tbh, the dibi is not good to drop and abuse, it's minimalist in form and sleek and thin but it is wood and that area where yours broke is not going to survive a good fall landing right on the toe, any wood could have broke so don't beat yourself up too much about the wood you chose bro, just find those pieces

I was gonna say something anyway, but now I'll start with this: I totally disagree with t-cad on this. There's an immense difference in strength of wood used. I can tell a LOT when I'm working with it.

Now, what I was gonna say . . . when someone asks me what I think about a particular piece, and I express some concerns. . . I'm not just casually blathering. When the reply I get is, "yeah, but . . ", then I try to accommodate. So, if one asks me that, and my response is anything other than " yes, that will be good material " . . . . . then from that point on, one is asking to take a risk. I don't mind risk, but . . . just sayin'

 

[pdib]

Oops, I see now that T-cad was saying wood vs metal . . . not one kind of wood vs another

 

[turbocad6]

sorry man, I'm no expert in wood and you certainly have a whole lot more experience with working with wood than I do. alls I know is it's not as strong as steel that for sure

 

[glassgal]

My stabilized and dyed maple is pretty solid... it looks like I can drop it on the floor without breaking... (but I'm not gonna! )

Thing about steel vs wood... you can glue wood back together, and if you do a great job it's hard to see (as turbo showed with his break). If you drop a steel mod, it's dinged dented or scratched, and you aren't going to get that ding out or 'blend' it. So while it's still intact, it's never going to be the same either. At least yours is fixable if you can find most of the pieces.

 

[ScandaLeX]

Thanks ScandaLeX. It'll be all good, somehow some way like you said. It still works fantastic, just has a boo boo now .

I really want people to think about what kind of wood they choose though. The waiting, the craftsmanship, the beauty, the performance all adds to the disappointment when you break it. I don't usually get emotional about things but this one stings a little.

I know that stinging feeling. I didn't even have my Dibi & the first block of wood broke. When I got that PM from dibs my heart sank like it did when I got laid off from my last job.
I actually loved that job.


Sent from a BIG phone.....Galaxy Note 3

 

[timk]

My stabilized and dyed maple is pretty solid... it looks like I can drop it on the floor without breaking... (but I'm not gonna! )

Thing about steel vs wood... you can glue wood back together, and if you do a great job it's hard to see (as turbo showed with his break). If you drop a steel mod, it's dinged dented or scratched, and you aren't going to get that ding out or 'blend' it. So while it's still intact, it's never going to be the same either. At least yours is fixable if you can find most of the pieces.

I'd argue with steel and metals is you can add material, bend, grind, and reshape. You should see some of the cylinder heads that have eaten valves and been TIG'd and reshaped. Wood however is unique and if I can't find all the bits, that's it, its never going to look the same.

 

[turbocad6]

I built a mod from snakewood which is like one of the hardest woods there is, I dropped it a few days ago and it cracked too, cracked from bottom to top, right up the middle on the inside. come to find out cracking is a common problem with snakewood I built another from regular ole home depot oak a while ago and dropped it a bunch of times no cracks, even dropped it a few times on purpose to test after I cracked the snakewood and nope, it just bounces, I guess some woods may be softer but softness means it absorbs shock where really hard can mean really brittle? don't know for sure, peters the wood guru here but I think any wood should be treated as fragile I guess, it's just wood next I want to build one from desert ironwood, also supposed to be really hard like snakewood, not sure really hard means less likely to crack though, I think it has a lot to do with the grain... I've read that some woods are less likely to crack when they have a weaved grain instead of a straight grain... even stabilized can only do so much....

 

[turbocad6]

I'd argue with steel and metals is you can add material, bend, grind, and reshape. You should see some of the cylinder heads that have eaten valves and been TIG'd and reshaped. Wood however is unique and if I can't find all the bits, that's it, its never going to look the same.

yeah man, with metal almost anything is repairable. I have a tig welder and much metalworking equipment which is why I always prefered metal too, but since having some wood mods I now like wood mods much better than metal when it comes to bottom feeders. I have one stainless steel bottom feeder that I built, thing would seriously survive anything, makes a metal reo look soft and weak, but I hate it, hate carrying it, it's so heavy... rather carry the dibi and a tube of crazy glue

 

[Megan Kogijiki Ratchford]

I built a mod from snakewood which is like one of the hardest woods there is, I dropped it a few days ago and it cracked too, cracked from bottom to top, right up the middle on the inside. come to find out cracking is a common problem with snakewood I built another from regular ole home depot oak a while ago and dropped it a bunch of times no cracks, even dropped it a few times on purpose to test after I cracked the snakewood and nope, it just bounces, I guess some woods may be softer but softness means it absorbs shock where really hard can mean really brittle? don't know for sure, peters the wood guru here but I think any wood should be treated as fragile I guess, it's just wood next I want to build one from desert ironwood, also supposed to be really hard like snakewood, not sure really hard means less likely to crack though, I think it has a lot to do with the grain... I've read that some woods are less likely to crack when they have a weaved grain instead of a straight grain... even stabilized can only do so much....

As a potter I agree. While high fired clay like porcelain is considered very strong, if you hit it right on the counter or drop it the damn thing will shatter into a bazillion pieces. However, low fire clay is considered less strong but if you drop it there might be a chip missing but otherwise it is fine...

 

[timk]

read similar stuff turbo. hard stuff splits. think stretchy, interwoven grain is prob best, but I'm an IT guy not a wood guru. my next one will be whatever is most durable. knowing what I know now, and that is this IS the only mod I want to use currently, I need durable. I will defer to pdib for best wood for run #12. I am curious about hickory and ash, I've read ash is the stuff for flexible/durable wood.

and my wood was stablized old growth redwood. so don't use that hahaha

 

[timk]

yeah man, with metal almost anything is repairable. I have a tig welder and much metalworking equipment which is why I always prefered metal too, but since having some wood mods I now like wood mods much better than metal when it comes to bottom feeders. I have one stainless steel bottom feeder that I built, thing would seriously survive anything, makes a metal reo look soft and weak, but I hate it, hate carrying it, it's so heavy... rather carry the dibi and a tube of crazy glue

That's funny right there until you squonk the glue in the atty by mistake i kid i kid

 

[pdib]

I like MoN's jawbone idea. It would be supercool to devise a little piece (maybe out of that silver rod) that's like a high felutin' bandaid. On the one hand, it's like like a Scarlet letter, on the other hand it's cool, cause you gotta break your mod to be in that club.

 

[pdib]

Yeah, the best wood for these mods is the burl. It's chaotic growth pattern, so it doesn't have the weakness of a regular structure.

Amboyna, Maple, stuff like that. As for stabilized or not . . . maybe depends on your variation in climate VS dropkick propensity.

 

[timk]

well I would call my drop was more of a casual release prompted by a toddler hug assault love my kids but their wake is vast not blaming them one bit but I was ambushed I say!

 

[timk]

I like MoN's jawbone idea. It would be supercool to devise a little piece (maybe out of that silver rod) that's like a high felutin' bandaid. On the one hand, it's like like a Scarlet letter, on the other hand it's cool, cause you gotta break your mod to be in that club.

maybe like a face guard on a football helmet. Yup it's got a helmet cuz i'm a dipsh...

 

[Alexander Mundy]

So Mundy thanks for the wire! I just set it up in my dibi....

Holy .... this thing blows some clouds at .2 ohms........


But on the downside, it's REAAAAALLLLYYYY hard to work with. So I might just chalk it up to not worth the hassle, but I'll enjoy the coil for now.

what is that?


a spoke off the wheel of Mundy's VW Bug?

.030" Rene 41 welding wire. Like the smaller R41 it doesn't want to change once you have bent it into a particular shape, but think 5 times more so. In fact it will shatter if you try to re-bend too much. Due to the lag both in heat up and cool down (Even with my 20A VV mod) it doesn't seem very practical, but I figured that before we got it. It is however a pretty darn good vape.

 

[MasterofNone]

11 wraps... Is that somewhere around 1.1 mundy?


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[Treebeard]

Timk, (and turbo) so sorry about your fractured mods. I know that sinking feeling. I suppose it is some consolation that they are still functional. I have a fear of dropping mine cause I drop things a lot . I keep my twins in custom made covers (thanks Monkey!) hoping that it will cushion the blow if I do drop them or at least prevent nicks and scratches.

GG, I have two REOs and have upgraded the spring and firing pin and they are hitting like champs and I'm very pleased with them. But still, not quite as good as my two dibi's (especially since the shiny upgraded bits from Mr. Bee were installed). My dibi's are hitting as hard as my "very" hard hitting tube mods (cronus, stingray and EA clones (some of the hardest hitting mech mods available).

Do you have the same coil build in the dibi as you do in the reo? Could be the difference. You said that your atty got very hot and your batteries were draining abnormally fast....could only mean a short. My guess is that the coil was touching the atty interior wall.

The dibi can be tweaked for peak performance via adjustments of the various contact points. I'm sure yours is just a matter of "adjustments" provided there isn't some outside problem such as a short or some funky coating on the al plate. The dibi, like most other mechs are dead simple devices and there are a finite number of things that could be the problem (granted the dibi has a few extra steps).

My wish is that everyone that has one of these beautiful mods has it working at peak performance cause it is a hell-of-a-thing when it is.

In other news, the BeCu button springs that I have don't seem to be very stiff. The button has a nice mechanical feel and is not hard to press for me. The silver shaft is nicely adjustable and I have it set for a short throw so I don't have to worry about it pushing the bottom plate down out of contact. Course, I don't think I'd want to put it in the bottom of my purse. Never had a problem with misfires from day one (I'm a beta tester). Only prob I've ever had was with a loose 510 housing (which may have loosened from me moving the copper leaf back and forth.

Cheers, all!

 

[Alexander Mundy]

11 wraps... Is that somewhere around 1.1 mundy?


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That is somewhere between .2 to .3

Takes about 14 inches to make 1 ohm.

 

[turbocad6]

yeah, another thing to look for is the 510 pin, the soft silicone gasket in there seals it well but it can get damaged if you tighten the atty down too much, especially when your using an o-ring under the atty and trying to compress that down snug, yet if it's not tight enough the connection there can be a point of high resistance, especially with a high powered low ohm build. one atty may seat the pin fairly deep then the next might barely contact, especially if you over compressed it with the atty before. I replaced the upper gasket of the 510 pin with a o-ring that fit it really well, keeps it centered and lets me really snug the atty down tight getting a really good connection at the 510. circuits only as good as the weakest link and after everything else was top notch the 510 was a weak link. I considered a new post right through the cyclone to hybrid it but with the oring in the 510 and really cranked down it's been fine.

a leather jacket type cover would be really cool but I refuse to tool up for yet another craft just to satisfy my vape