PDIB's Making MODs!

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Treebeard

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I meant stick a toothpick in the drain hole, maybe at the bottom.

Oh+I+see+what+you+mean.+You+re+saying+that+the+_c6751420948f361d6c80847849b2590e.gif
 

ValHeli

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Val I like the way you think. But how would a contact coil not short if no insulator gets created with pulses? Are we failing to achieve proper contact at all?

technically we are "shorting" the coil albeit it is an intentional short for our purposes. If there was truly an insulator between the individual coils, then the whole coil should light up at the same time and not from the middle out. A strand of straight kanthal connected to the poles will light instantaneously and evenly. Also, if the coil is truly insulated, then we shouldn't be getting hot spots and not worry about micro spacing.

I've tested the coils at work using the conductivity tester on the eddy current machine and I haven't seen any siginificant differences between used and unused coils. This leads me to think that the heat we're applying isn't high enough to form alumina.
 

MamaTried

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I think I like something like ↑ that better than "pips". (as long is we're turning this into a public discussion)

btw: I too prefer minimalismisticism; however, I know for a fact that there's "matchy" peeps in our group.

call me "matchy". my 3 dibis have copper plates, so...
 

ValHeli

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.. Ok ok. Based on popular demand. I'll see what I can do about the brass (copper) sleeve.

also due to the rather small form factor of "Nuppin", a delrin top cap insulator doesn't provide any benefit with the delrin drip tip. Even with an insulator, Nuppin heats up fairly quick rendering the insulator useless.

.. so I guess I'll have a tiiight drip tip made specially for Meg.. So how tight do you want it? :lol::lol::lol:
 

e30ernest

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also due to the rather small form factor of "Nuppin", a delrin top cap insulator doesn't provide any benefit with the delrin drip tip. Even with an insulator, Nuppin heats up fairly quick rendering the insulator useless.

Brainstorming here... but would an aluminum cap (instead of SS) make heat dissipation better?
 

pdib

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Brainstorming here... but would an aluminum cap (instead of SS) make heat dissipation better?

you mean the whole cap? or just the AFC tube? I think the tube is pretty insulated from the actual cap (layer of air and o-rings)

Pro'ly the only/most effective thing would be to use that thick top part of the cap as an air cooler (grooves/fins). That would double as something to give you a grip to adjust the AFC.

Bear in mind tho, VH is a self-confessed chain vaper. Let me see how hot it gets under more "normal" circumstances (i.e. .5Ω, but not puffin' like a steam engine) before we get all carried away.
 
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Vwls

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Woodworking: when wood is used as a construction material, whether as a structural support in a building or in woodworking objects, it will absorb or desorb moisture until it is in equilibrium with its surroundings. Equilibration (usually drying) causes unequal shrinkage in the wood, and can cause damage to the wood if equilibration occurs too rapidly. The equilibration must be controlled to prevent damage to the wood.:

So is this going to be an issue for those of us who live in the desert? Will our Dibis dry up and crack?

Can we prevent this by giving them luxurious massages with oils and lotions? :p
 

ValHeli

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Brainstorming here... but would an aluminum cap (instead of SS) make heat dissipation better?

ALuminum is more conductive than SS. So eventhough it'll dissipate heat better, it will heat up faster and possibly much hotter than SS. An aluminum drip tip will also require external vanes to take advantage of it's heat dissipation properties


btw: Hey Kabayan, are you back in country? We're having a small get together at the cowboy grill later if you wanna join!
 

ValHeli

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you mean the whole cap? or just the AFC tube? I think the tube is pretty insulated from the actual cap (layer of air and o-rings)

Pro'ly the only/most effective thing would be to use that thick top part of the cap as an air cooler (grooves/fins). That would double as something to give you a grip to adjust the AFC.

Bear in mind tho, VH is a self-confessed chain vaper. Let me see how hot it gets under more "normal" circumstances (i.e. .5Ω, but not puffin' like a steam engine) before we get all carried away.


..OOOH OOOOH!!! ...i see a great idea for Nuppin V2.0 :D
 

X-Puppy

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Aluminum absorbs heat faster than a lot of other metals. Copper even more so. That's why they use it on crock pots and CPU coolers. Without cooling fins or something similar it stays hot(er).

I resemble a walking cloud machine at times (most of the time) and I have really come to appreciate the Delrin insert on the Zenith. It makes a noticeable difference. I do think the Delrin drip tip displayed on the"Nuppin" looks pretty cool. I'd be good with that one in particular but an insert would expand options to choose from.
 

ValHeli

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Aluminum absorbs heat faster than a lot of other metals. Copper even more so. That's why they use it on crock pots and CPU coolers. Without cooling fins or something similar it stays hot(er).

I resemble a walking cloud machine at times (most of the time) and I have really come to appreciate the Delrin insert on the Zenith. It makes a noticeable difference. I do think the Delrin drip tip displayed on the"Nuppin" looks pretty cool. I'd be good with that one in particular but an insert would expand options to choose from.

The main problem we experienced during prototyping is how hot the atty gets due to it's small size. The size factor also makes it difficult to machine at such closer tolerances to add the features we want. At this size, the delrin insulator is only about 1 - 1.2mm thick and comes loose easily due to the concentrated heat. A 22mm atty would provide plenty of room for a top cap insulator but unfortunately won't work on the Nuppin' unless we make the top part of the cap completely out of delrin ( which directly translates to higher cost, and longer wait due to R&D)
 
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