Early X'mas present 
There's much I like about the Mulus ... but after a week or so of use it's started to leak around the Nautilus adapter so today I've loaded it with 70 VG liquid, opened the airflow wide and refitted the original drip tip to give it a chance to redeem itself.
I've also ordered a pack of 1.2 ohm Tigon coils to see if that helps ... if none of this works it's off to Vape Heaven via the recycling centre!
The back up is a Zlide atop a Pico.
I've also ordered a pack of 1.2 ohm Tigon coils to see if that helps ... if none of this works it's off to Vape Heaven via the recycling centre!
The back up is a Zlide atop a Pico.
Who's in the Nauti Corner this early on a Tuesday morning?
Why, it's a ProCore SE on a Slim Piece!
Why, it's a ProCore SE on a Slim Piece!
Aaaaarrggghhh. Mesh dry hit from hell, look at the ohms on that coil ^^^,me had a dud, all good now lol.
I'm not familiar with the ProC coil heads this particular tank uses or the way that they've been designed so I can't judge the safety of what you're doing, but still nevertheless I think that anyone who might be considering to use a tank with premade coils on any type of mech mod should watch the video linked below and pay careful attention to the part that starts at 2:15.
I've been using drop-in coil heads on mechs for years. The first mechs were around in the carto days. Starter kits used to be available with a mech and a coil head tank, or a carto setup. The biggest problem with the older tanks today is that so many mechs have direct to battery connections, and the firing pins on most older tanks (RTA's included) don't protrude, or not far enough to be safe with a DTB connection.
But that's fairly recent. My older mechs have 510 connectors, so that wasn't an issue at all. Most newer mods are DTB, the Slim Piece included. But the ProCore is a recent tank, made by a company (Joyetech) that used to make mechs to go with their coil head tanks. That coil head is an amazingly accurate .40ohms. One thing I use regulated mods for is as a handy test fixture. A month from now, that coil head will be between .39 and .41ohms.
Anything that can go wrong with a coil head is even more likely to go wrong with a self build. The grizzly incidents that I'm aware of have mostly been RDA's. Haven't heard of someone getting their carotid slashed by a Nautilus lately.
The part that starts at 2:15 in the video I linked explains something (along with visible evidence to show the fact) that can never go wrong with any of the multiple dozens of authentic RDAs that I have hands-on personal experience with, as they [these RDAs] don't have a floating center pin inside their 510, and I routinely inspect their 510. I mean, not even a single one of them has a center pin that's actually floating like shown in this video so, have you watched the video till after the part where this was actually shown?
Yes, I have. What he is showing is a problem with the atty, not the coil head. Time was, there were rebuildables with floating pins. The Procore has a fixed pin, as do all of my more recent tanks, and many of the old tanks never had them, either.
I have a degree in Electrical Engineering, and spent 7 years working as a pinball/video game tech. I know a thing or two about insulators and why they're there.
If you want to continue the conversation, why don't you start a thread in the Mech Mods forum?
It's because safety is always more important than moving the subject to a new thread where those who might stumble across your picture and who might not be aware of the risks related directly to using a tank with a premade coil on any mech mod including a lot of those mech mods that actually do have a 510 pin might not be able to find the relevant safety related full explanation. Like I already mentioned right at the start of my first reply I wasn't trying to judge on whether what you're doing is safe or not, but this changes nothing of the fact there might be other people putting themselves potentially at risk from misguided conclusions obtained here.
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