Post pictures of your working wick and coil setup

[jj6404]

Sure, your explanation is much better than Riptrippers and it does mirror to discussions on the tensioned microcoil thread. As far as for the hot spots I know from one research paper( I can look it up) that hot spots are present at the smallest level and happen even between wick and wire and that it's practically impossible to completely avoid them. So I don't know, time will tell what works and what not I guess. However to me it's obvious that we have long reached the limits and use of the current materials we use in our builds and I'm frustrated why there are so few alternatives sought. Ceramic coils is the only actually applicable idea 'outside the box' I have ever seen now that I come to think of it. Genesis do not apply because of the oxidation involved. Maybe with temp control there will be some advances coming I hope.

Though it may not be possible to remove every hot spot, even a simple twisted build can very often have a hot spot so great on one tiny part of the wire that if you continued to pulse it without strumming or wiggling the coil it would just melt and break at that spot. Now I don't imagine this happening with wick and juice cooling it down but you can imagine how uneven it would heat overall and having a premature dry spot on that piece of wick next to the hot spot. These aren't just spots that heat up first. They're spots that glow bright white before the rest of the coil starts to turn orange.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[proteckt3d]

no i am not. is that part of this forum?

I don't know if he has a user in the forum but he is a reviewer on youtube and has Whip it by Devo as the intro to most of his videos

 

[proteckt3d]

Though it may not be possible to remove every hot spot, even a simple twisted build can very often have a hot spot so great on one tiny part of the wire that if you continued to pulse it without strumming or wiggling the coil it would just melt and break at that spot. Now I don't imagine this happening with wick and juice cooling it down but you can imagine how uneven it would heat overall and having a premature dry spot on that piece of wick next to the hot spot. These aren't just spots that heat up first. They're spots that glow bright white before the rest of the coil starts to turn orange.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Your also leaving out the factor or maybe you didn't, that e-liquid itself is an electrical insulator and it contributes also to reduce hot spots that way. In the worst case scenario, at least a temp control device will not allow such random resistance behavior so some way of coiling for better flavor will be found through trial and error, at least with TC.

 

[Tom Forde]

Working Petri build: fused 26g N80 Clapton staggered with 34/36g N80

Dark Horse - 3 loop 30g N80 vertebraid - zero ramp time, produces huge clouds

FAILien stovetop on my doge v2. 3 28g N80 cores with a 34g failed alien wrap but still works like a champ haha

 

[jj6404]

Your also leaving out the factor or maybe you didn't, that e-liquid itself is an electrical insulator and it contributes also to reduce hot spots that way. In the worst case scenario, at least a temp control device will not allow such random resistance behavior so some way of coiling for better flavor will be found through trial and error, at least with TC.

It's not that temp control doesn't allow hot spots or random resistance behavior (there actually is random resistance behavior in most temp control situations because of the resistivity of nickel200), it's that everyone who builds temp control builds does simple spaced coils to mitigate hot spots; because it is accepted as dangerous to dry burn nickel and titanium.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[proteckt3d]

It's not that temp control doesn't allow hot spots or random resistance behavior (there actually is random resistance behavior in most temp control situations because of the resistivity of nickel200), it's that everyone who builds temp control builds does simple spaced coils to mitigate hot spots; because it is accepted as dangerous to dry burn nickel and titanium.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I've been a bit ignorant of the technology behind current temp control chips. But from what I gathered by skimming until now was that resistance changes as temperature rises or decreases so I expect that there is some uniformity when this happens. Action and reaction, right? Therefore I thought a big enough short will throw off the reading, provided that these chips are not only reading the resistance in real time but also expect the next change or changes in resistance while powering a coil. Find a twisted coil build with small enough hot spots to not interfere with the reading and you have working setup. Of course it has been thought about already, that's why I mentioned Riptrippers, I thought his build is doing just that.

 

[LilWhiteClouder]

Here are my recently built .32 ohm dual coils, each side parallel built using 27 g Kanthal A1 and .8 x .1mm Ribbon Wire. 7/6 wraps each with an ID of 3mm. Some ramp up time with lower watts on reg. device. Amazing flavor! Higher watts = large clouds + Amazing flavors on this thing. Really lovin these coils!

 

[SLIPPY_EEL]

Tom forde is your 34g nichrome or kanthal?

mm is more precise on the smaller stuff, or is it just more precise what mm is your 34g?

 

[Housetek]

Got a new RH for my bday so tossed a fused claptoned on it 24 n80 with 36g n80

 

[LilWhiteClouder]

Got a new RH for my bday so tossed a fused claptoned on it 24 n80 with 36g n80

Sweet box graphic! I like the look of the RH on top.

 

[DangVape]

New builder here, Here my stovetop on a Veritas Clone

From cold, it does take a few puff to heat it up properly but when the dripper get hot the flavor is amazing.

 

[Tom Forde]

Tom forde is your 34g nichrome or kanthal?

mm is more precise on the smaller stuff, or is it just more precise what mm is your 34g?

It's all Nichrome 80. It's tiny wire. But not as small as my 36g...

Super macro shot of dragon skin I made, you can't tell what it is from just looking at it normally.

I don't know the mm's of it but it's very thin and awesome to work with.

 

[SLIPPY_EEL]

It's all Nichrome 80. It's tiny wire. But not as small as my 36g...View attachment 473525Super macro shot of dragon skin I made, you can't tell what it is from just looking at it normally. View attachment 473526 I don't know the mm's of it but it's very thin and awesome to work with.

yup n80 works much better for the overwrap on the alien imo, i tried kanth but even trying to slide it off the first wire was a struggle let alone wrap hahaa.

That DragonSkin looks nice, is that something you designed or is there a vid on how to make it?

 

[wvloony]

Well for me it's not it's not really true and I'll just state my own logic on it. As far as the knowledge I have, any metal using for vaping will have an influence on our body, the degree yes can vary. It might very well be true that Ti and SS are a safer option than the current alloys but just a good hunch, as good as it could be, does not make the others obsolete for me. For me the biggest reason to not be worried about nichrome or kanthal is that I don't have a source where I can see how much more safe is Ti compared to Nichrome. But I am sure the current main wires are safer than using iron wire for example which is much more susceptible to oxidation. And there are much worse examples than just iron. Without some numbers that relate to our application to compare one can only have an estimation based on what one can read about the properties of each material individually. And I admit I haven't went to research in the metals, I leave it to people that are educated in this way, which I hope there was at least more than one of these persons that has looked into nichrome and kanthal all these years we have been using them and as long as they didn't draw attention, with concrete data, to any serious health risks it's ok for me.



I'm sure there will be ways to handle SS loony. And furthermore no one is forcing us to use any of these wires. But I have two questions for you? Where you a cigarette smoker before starting vaping? if yes good for you and thus my second question, would you go back to smoking if Ti was the only wire you can use in e-cigs? Knowing that it's even safer for your health than the wire you use now?

Yes I was, and nope, they dont taste good any longer, I would just have to bite the bullet.

 

[Tom Forde]

yup n80 works much better for the overwrap on the alien imo, i tried kanth but even trying to slide it off the first wire was a struggle let alone wrap hahaa.

That DragonSkin looks nice, is that something you designed or is there a vid on how to make it?

Naw I'm not the person who invented it, although I was told the person who did is from NJ also. I just picked up a new Hobo v3.1 at the NJ vape expo for $50 - I have a problem when it comes to buying atty's, I need to buy anything new and shiny - and installed a dual 8 wrap around a 2.5mm bit dragon skin coil inside of it. .22 ohms.

The way I made those coils in particular was by claptoning 14" of 36g around 24g, decored the Clapton and measured the decored Clapton to half and cut at 7". I stretched the 7" decored 36g to about to roughly 3 feet.
Cut 3 strands of 28g to 12 inches and straighten them out. Slide the 28g into the decored Clapton one piece at a time and cut the wrap where the 28g core stops.
When I had my 3 28g/36g stretched Clapton wires, I put them in my drill chuck as parallel together as I can and since I wrapped the clapton clockwise, twist the 3 cores together counter clockwise slowly until tight but not too tight.
Then if you have any VG or a lube that wouldn't hurt your pliers or the wire itself, rub some onto the wire while it's still in the drill, so you can slide you pliers down it while spinning the drill slowly to flatten the Clapton wraps. Wash it off, torch it, and then you'll have dragon skin!

 

[proteckt3d]

Yes I was, and nope, they dont taste good any longer, I would just have to bite the bullet.

This bullet might be safe to bite, as titanium is not harmful to living tissue

 

[jj6404]

This bullet might be safe to bite, as titanium is not harmful to living tissue

Let's clarify here what is meant by saying "not harmful to living tissue" because I'm pretty sure titanium or SS would be very harmful to living tissue if say, I cut you with a titanium or SS knife. What exactly do you mean there? Like if we ingested titanium fragments we would be OK but not with kanthal? But we don't swallow kanthal either. And as far as the fear of inhaling tiny flecks, I noticed in that thread in this forum where the guy puts his coil under an electron microscope before and after dry firing and use, it shows that the outer surface of the coil is virtually undamaged: smooth, intact, whole.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[proteckt3d]

Let's clarify here what is meant by saying "not harmful to living tissue" because I'm pretty sure titanium or SS would be very harmful to living tissue if say, I cut you with a titanium or SS knife. What exactly do you mean there? Like if we ingested titanium fragments we would be OK but not with kanthal? But we don't swallow kanthal either. And as far as the fear of inhaling tiny flecks, I noticed in that thread in this forum where the guy puts his coil under an electron microscope before and after dry firing and use, it shows that the outer surface of the coil is virtually undamaged: smooth, intact, whole.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Titanium is biocompatible. SS is up there too. It's safer just from the point of view that atoms from the wire could be released along with the aerosol. Inhaling atoms from titanium would be not harmful to tissue. You can cut yourself with any blade and get infected exactly the same if all the blades have the exact same amount contaminants on them. The difference of more or less harmful is which blades retain less contaminants. The reason why they operate with SS tools in hospitals.

 

[SLIPPY_EEL]

Thanks Tom Forde, i shall try some time soon hopefully when i get 5 mins

The Alienwire coil i made a little while back is still going strong, is the only thing ive been vaping on since i made it, i really rate it highly

 

[Nickstive]

26g Nichrome 80 fused clapton with 40g Nichrome 80 ran parallel with 26g kanthal. That 40g is a PITA to work with, but I do love the way it vapes.