Post pictures of your working wick and coil setup

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SLIPPY_EEL

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What's the name of that cool atty?

i was gonna ask the very same question as i have a fishbone Xs that is very similar and its a royal pita to build on :D
On another note vapenoob you need to fill that bottom of the three coils with a bit more wick if you havent already, after a second look your right one to, the coils will glow and give you extra TH or just taste dam nasty :)
 

jj6404

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Alright guys. I know I haven't posted a pic in this thread for many pages but here it is: my first venture into temp control. Dual spaced Ti1 24g coils 3mm ID at 0.18 ohms on my Tobeco Velocity.
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SLIPPY_EEL

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Cigreen Authentic Triangle RDA. Revision 1 I believe. Has it's own serial number which is nice. Hard to build on I would agree.

i have this -> https://www.fasttech.com/product/3429000

very good taster and have never had a leak as i count drips or take a peak inside before dripping but yeah building it isnt easy, you dont have any other option than the build you can get in it, i did try to install three stovetops but the angle the post holes are at prevent this as when i tightened up the screws the stovetops would get adjusted and look a mess, but im not defeated! i want to try again as this would be a great build and would eliminate the need to even look at where the juice is going as you would be dripping straight into the wicks in around the middle post :D
 
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jj6404

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Nice jj how are you getting on with the spaced coils and the difference to the flavour on a clapton?
If you remember I tried that spaced unoxidized kanthal build that one time per your suggestion and I hated it lol. Dozens of fused claptons later I'm finally getting into temp control and with this titanium wire spaced and unoxidized at around 540 degrees I'm finding a very satisfying vape. I'm still not sure if the flavor is better, or just good and "different", but I like it!


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WharfRat1976

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i have this -> https://www.fasttech.com/product/3429000

very good taster and have never had a leak as i count drips or take a peak inside before dripping but yeah building it isnt easy, you dont have any other option than the build you can get in it, i did try to install three stovetops but the angle the post holes are at prevent this as when i tightened up the screws the stovetops would get adjusted and look a mess, but im not defeated! i want to try again as this would be a great build and would eliminate the need to even look at where the juice is going as you would be dripping straight into the wicks in around the middle post :D
Slip, how about tri vertical parallels on that thing or just tri verticals? You could also do a 6 coil build with 28g.
 
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SLIPPY_EEL

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Slip, how about tri vertical parallels on that thing or just tri verticals? You could also do a 6 coil build with 28g.
i might try but its such a small area to work in i just get my hair off with it :lol: even if you go with vert coils which would better suit it you end up with the top lead bdeing real long & coming down on a stupid angle .. ive been spoilt from vaping this phen with all its room :)
 
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Tom Forde

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Come on now, let's not let this thread die off!
image.jpeg
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Old coils I had laying around, 12 or 15x 36g kinda framed with 2x28g claptoned in 36g all N80. Note that this was an attempt from before the summer and is not how my framed coils look now lol. I used a butane torch lighter to get the coloring. They're definitely ugly, but they work just fine.
 

jonny45378

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Decided to build something a bit different than I usually build, and at a higher resistance. I did a single twisted 32 gauge core with 32 gauge also claptoned around it. The build came out to 1.4 ohms and vapes nice at around 20 watts. Lately I've been a "low" wattage vapor lol.

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SLIPPY_EEL

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Yep it does but I put a nice heat sink just under my velocity to protect my mod work fine yet

yeah the finned heat sinks work well, also save wear on your mods threading, i have a cherrybomber that when you unscrew and screw on attys the internals will move and auto fire if batteries are left installed but with the heatsink i dont get that issue anymore.
 
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Tom Forde

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yeah the finned heat sinks work well, also save wear on your mods threading, i have a cherrybomber that when you unscrew and screw on attys the internals will move and auto fire if batteries are left installed but with the heatsink i dont get that issue anymore.
Slip do you have a link to where I can find one? Last one I've seen was either the Vulcanizer or the removable heat sink that came with an Aeolus v1.
BTW - I got a Kumi loom the other day, braid time :)

alien wire is my suggestion Strumglu :)

nice build, i bet the velocity gets hot cus of those 4 long coils :)
I second this, but also add my thoughts of an arched Clapton. It's easier to build, and is like a discount alien. Just be sure to parallel it to something for staged heating as they can take a while depending on the cores & wrap gauge.
 
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SLIPPY_EEL

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Tom Forde

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i get my junk from FT Tom mate heres a link $3.34 Kepler 510 Finned Heat Sink for Atomizers - aluminum / 22mm diameter at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping

a kumi loom hey mate, dont forget to post some pics of your wires you make, i have far to little time for this kind of stuff at the moment but it does interest me :)
Awesome. Will do on the kumi pics once I start. But I have a question til then.... Do you even color, bro?
image.jpeg

Edit, meant to ask, should I go for the Kepler heat sinks/spacers? I'll probably get a 3 pack, so that would mean copper, SS, & aluminum. Thoughts Slip?
 
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jj6404

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Awesome. Will do on the kumi pics once I start. But I have a question til then.... Do you even color, bro? View attachment 503658
Edit, meant to ask, should I go for the Kepler heat sinks/spacers? I'll probably get a 3 pack, so that would mean copper, SS, & aluminum. Thoughts Slip?

Tom, what are the wires you used for this?
 
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