Potential Lavatube 1.5 issue

[Greykin]

I got the 1.5 from Penny's on Tuesday. Been vaping it ever since and it has performed quite well and it runs dual coils just fine.

That CCV thread about Andrew's 1.5 going into meltdown came out a day or so after I put in the order...so I was a little worried. I emailed them on their site about the issue and never received a response....so -1 for customer service at Penny's IMO. However, the price was excellent at $59.99 (it looks like they've raised it to $69.99 since last week), the shipping was good and thus far I couldn't be happier with the performance of the hardware I received.

I have been removing the battery from the unit when I go to sleep at night just to be on the safe side (during the day it's pretty much glued to my hand)...so I'm kind of torn. Loving this thing to death...but the issue Andrew had is worrisome. The joys of modern electronics.

Update: I got a reply from Penny's concerning Andrew's 1.5 meltdown.

Smoke Anywhere For Penny's, LLC Store Said:

I have seen the thread on ECF and am not concerned about it at all because when I got the VV 1.5 in, the manufacture called and said that they were having problems with the unit staying on and sent me replacements with new chip sets. So I have had no problems with the VV 1.5.

 

[Rocketman]

Looking for a little clarification on the various models of the LT (L-rider only please).

Posts here seem to indicate:
The V1.0 seems to have a 2.5 amp limit, and drops to about 3.5v with a (1.5 ohm) DC when set to 6.0 volts.
where the V1.5 ONLY drops to 5.4 - 5.6 volts when set on 6.0 volts with a (1.5 ohm) DC.
But, they all meter up to 3.0 to 3.2 amps.,
but,

5.4 volts into a 1.5 ohm carto seems it should be putting out at least 3.6 amps. COOL


Above based on testing by other engineers in this thread, not mine.

 

[Flyer]

Well, clearly 5.4V across 1.5 ohms is 3.6A, thats amazing...had no idea it would put out that much current. How are you metering the current of 3-3.2 amps? Ohms law never lies!!

 

[Rocketman]

some previous posts in this thread. I'm looking for clarification is all.

 

[billherbst]

rocketman,

Testing has confirmed that all versions of Young-June Vtubes (version 1.5, 1.5t, and the new chrome v2.0) have the same chipset and the same amp limit: 3.2 amps, give or take a little.

I've been guilty of posting that the chrome v2.0 had a 3.9 amp limit---because Andrew at CCV stated on the CrystalClearVaping supplier thread that this had been verified---but it turns out that he was misinformed. The claim of a 4 amp limit was and is bogus, as it had previously been for the v1.5t. I don't know who's responsible for these false claims in the first place, but they really should stop. It's getting old.

That's the bad news, at least for people who are power hungry (read: 1.5 ohm dual coil users). In your earlier post, you reported that with a v1.5 Vtube you were able to successfully drive a 1.5 ohm DC at 5.4 volts, but in all the other tests I've seen, plus the ones I've performed myself, max voltage for an LR dual coil carto is 4.5-4.6 volts (translating to 3.1 amps). Now, even that will be enough to provide a hearty, satisfying vape for most people, but if folks want to blow their heads off with a 1.5 ohm dual coil, they really should pass on Vtubes and get a SmokTech Vmax.

The good news is that Young-June has fixed the 5-click power-down zombie-stealth-low-voltage mode glitch. In the Chrome v2.0 (and presumably all current production runs of the v1.5t), the device powers down correctly and will not fire at all when turned off.

 

[bizzyb0t]

rocketman,

Testing has confirmed that all versions of Young-June Vtubes (version 1.5, 1.5t, and the new chrome v2.0) have the same chipset and the same amp limit: 3.2 amps, give or take a little.

I've been guilty of posting that the chrome v2.0 had a 3.9 amp limit---because Andrew at CCV stated on the CrystalClearVaping supplier thread that this had been verified---but it turns out that he was misinformed. The claim of a 4 amp limit was and is bogus, as it had previously been for the v1.5t. I don't know who's responsible for these false claims in the first place, but they really should stop. It's getting old.

That's the bad news, at least for people who are power hungry (read: 1.5 ohm dual coil users). In your earlier post, you reported that with a v1.5 Vtube you were able to successfully drive a 1.5 ohm DC at 5.4 volts, but in all the other tests I've seen, plus the ones I've performed myself, max voltage for an LR dual coil carto is 4.5-4.6 volts (translating to 3.1 amps). Now, even that will be enough to provide a hearty, satisfying vape for most people, but if folks want to blow their heads off with a 1.5 ohm dual coil, they really should pass on Vtubes and get a SmokTech Vmax.

The good news is that Young-June has fixed the 5-click power-down zombie-stealth-low-voltage mode glitch. In the Chrome v2.0 (and presumably all current production runs of the v1.5t), the device powers down correctly and will not fire at all when turned off.

It should be noted that pushing a 1.5ohm carto at 4.5v-4.6v (3 or so amps), it's a whopping 13.5watts-14watts!

I think any higher than that, and people are risking frying cartos and creating acrolein with burning up the VG before it has a chance to boil off.

 

[Rocketman]

I was only quoting other's. I don't own one myself.
"With a 1.5 ohm DCT at 6 volts it dropped to 5.4-5.6v"
The comments I made were 'quote-less' quotes

My point of view:
When a regulated device, set for 6 volts drops to less than 5 volts, is that running out beyond the design?

Even an eGo has a short circuit current trip that is beyond a reliable upper current.
At what current levels does the LT circuit MAINTAIN reasonable voltage regulation?
For long term reliability that is probably the intended upper limit, not what current you can get before it shuts down, or worse, dies.

 

[socalfisher]

Odd issue that I have been having only the last few days.. Ive had mine little over 1 1/2 months, just recently got the apollo tanks and noticed that every once in a while my device defaults to 3.0v after being @ 4.2v.

Device is from myfreedomsmokes ss lambo
Batteries - panasonic 18650
Tank - Apollo E2 2.4 SR 2.6-2.8

 

[socalfisher]

After replacing the Lambo I still have this issue.. Now with brand new batters phoenix ra 1.5ohm

Please click photo, photobucket is acting weird

 

[DigDreams]

I have a chrome LT from iVape and I am having the same issues with it. It has turned on by itself and it and melted one of my tanks. I tried turning it off with the red button, but it still randomly turned on.

Now it has stopped firing by itself, but it will randomly light up the display, revert to 3.0 then turn off -- sometimes it gets stuck in a loop and will just sit there turning on and off all by itself. The only way to stop it is to remove the battery.

I think some moisture or juice go in to it since blowing it out will correct the issue for a short time, but it comes right back.

I have also noticed the voltage check does not work any more (even after blowing it out). I used to click 6 times, it would give me the voltage, and if I clicked again it would return to the output setting. Now after 6 clicks each additional click returns a different "random number".

I think it mat be time to go to a ProVari. I didn't expect this thing to flake out after only a few months of use.

 

[billherbst]

I have a chrome LT from iVape and I am having the same issues with it. It has turned on by itself and it and melted one of my tanks. I tried turning it off with the red button, but it still randomly turned on.

Now it has stopped firing by itself, but it will randomly light up the display, revert to 3.0 then turn off -- sometimes it gets stuck in a loop and will just sit there turning on and off all by itself. The only way to stop it is to remove the battery.

I think some moisture or juice go in to it since blowing it out will correct the issue for a short time, but it comes right back.

I have also noticed the voltage check does not work any more (even after blowing it out). I used to click 6 times, it would give me the voltage, and if I clicked again it would return to the output setting. Now after 6 clicks each additional click returns a different "random number".

I think it mat be time to go to a ProVari. I didn't expect this thing to flake out after only a few months of use.

Dig,

What you have is a Lambo chrome Vtube by L-Rider, not a Young-June Vtube (early production runs of the Young-June Vtubes are the subject of this thread). We can verify that it's an L-Rider Lambo by the red power button and spring-loaded center pin in the 510 connector.

Yours is the first report I've read of an L-Rider Vtube going whacko in a way that's potentially dangerous. First of all, stop using it and take out the battery. If the Vtube is still under warranty, contact iVape immediately and send it back . If the warranty has expired, throw it away (because it's dangerous), and buy something else.

 

[DigDreams]

Yeah, it's toast. I bought it from iVape, and they only offer a 30 day warranty -- so now it's a paper weight. I ordered a ProVari V2 with the 18650 extension and the extended warranty. I should have just done that to begin with.

 

[billherbst]

Yeah, it's toast. I bought it from iVape, and they only offer a 30 day warranty -- so now it's a paper weight. I ordered a ProVari V2 with the 18650 extension and the extended warranty. I should have just done that to begin with.

The ProVari is the Mercedes of VV tube APVs. I have one in chrome. While I'm not a fan of the clunky multi-click-and-wait-then-click-some-more menu system, the Accu-Set what-you-set-is-what-you-get-voltage regulation is brilliant (and true). I can't think of any other VV I own (24 at this point) that has zero voltage drop under load. Some drop only as little as .1 volt, but the ProVari is always absolutely spot on.

The Penguin mint tin VV Caged mod with dual-18650s, battery display, and a 6-amp OKV regulator I just ordered might do it, but I haven't got it yet.

Is the ProVari worth the high price? I don't know. Each potential customer makes that judgment. But---unless the internet and the whole retail vaping community go belly up---you'll always be able to send your ProVari to ProVape for repair should anything go wrong with it.

 

[DaveP]

I agree with Rocketman that a regulator that doesn't deliver advertised voltage across a given resistance is hitting the limit wall and it's being top stopped at a voltage that doesn't exceed the max current spec. It's probably part of the algorithm in the controller

 

[DigDreams]

Is the ProVari worth the high price? I don't know. Each potential customer makes that judgment.

Summary: Worth every penny. The difference in build quality alone is astonishing. I wish I had just bought this in the first place.

 

[thedigger]

Dig,

What you have is a Lambo chrome Vtube by L-Rider, not a Young-June Vtube (early production runs of the Young-June Vtubes are the subject of this thread). We can verify that it's an L-Rider Lambo by the red power button and spring-loaded center pin in the 510 connector.

Yours is the first report I've read of an L-Rider Vtube going whacko in a way that's potentially dangerous. First of all, stop using it and take out the battery. If the Vtube is still under warranty, contact iVape immediately and send it back . If the warranty has expired, throw it away (because it's dangerous), and buy something else.

1st, I would like to say hello and thank you for the info provided. But one thing, you stated that Dig has the L-Rider version due to the red button. Maybe ivape has upgraded since your conversation, but "none" of their LTs have red buttons. Does this mean they are all YJ?
2nd, This is the style, size and fit I want from my pv. Unfortunately a provari is out of the question right now. I have enough issues with the Mrs. over my spending on vaping. I normally use a cig style 808 setup, but want the LT style and pricing. So, I was hoping to hear good things about these since some time has past.
3rd, several questions, if you don't mind. Have these firing issues been addressed? I see LTs on gobs of sites, how do I know which ones are legit? I don't like the slow drop off of power, I want the last hit to be the same as the first. I've seen pricing from $59 to $99 for full kits, but some have red button and some don't. Just hoping I can be pointed in the right direction as this style will probably be my main vape and hope that it isn't a waste of money. Thanks in advance for any help.

 

[billherbst]

1st, I would like to say hello and thank you for the info provided. But one thing, you stated that Dig has the L-Rider version due to the red button. Maybe ivape has upgraded since your conversation, but "none" of their LTs have red buttons. Does this mean they are all YJ?
2nd, This is the style, size and fit I want from my pv. Unfortunately a provari is out of the question right now. I have enough issues with the Mrs. over my spending on vaping. I normally use a cig style 808 setup, but want the LT style and pricing. So, I was hoping to hear good things about these since some time has past.
3rd, several questions, if you don't mind. Have these firing issues been addressed? I see LTs on gobs of sites, how do I know which ones are legit? I don't like the slow drop off of power, I want the last hit to be the same as the first. I've seen pricing from $59 to $99 for full kits, but some have red button and some don't. Just hoping I can be pointed in the right direction as this style will probably be my main vape and hope that it isn't a waste of money. Thanks in advance for any help.

digger,

When I posted on 8/17, iVape was selling the L-Rider chrome Lambo V2. Since then, they've apparently been discontinued. All I see on iVape's site now are various versions of their Varitube X, all of which are from Young-June.

Any Vtube with a red power button is from L-Rider.

As to the "firing issues," I don't know. I've read posts by owners who had problems with the switches. None of my three Young-June Vtubes have any switch problems. Quality control issues in these devices are addressed by the factories "on the fly," and usually with no announcement.

Unfortunately, the term "legit" doesn't really apply to Vtubes. L-Rider came out with the first Lavatube version. Then Young-June Vtubes showed up that looked similar but had additional features (higher amp limit, resistance checking). The first production run of the Young-June tubes had glitches (one serious and one not-so-serious) that have subsequently been fixed. I doubt that any American vendors are still selling units from those early production runs.

All Vtubes are advertised as maintaining voltage as the battery drains, but the L-Rider tubes (all of which still use the original electronics until the next version is released, whenever that will be) seem to fail that test, as Phil Busardo demonstrated in his video comparison review of the L-Rider Lambo V2 and Young-June chrome v2.0.

If that's your main concern and you're going to buy now, I'd go with Young-June. Both iVape (Varitube X) and VaporBeast (Vector Variable Volt) sell the most recent production runs of those in full kits at good prices. Other sites sell them (under different rebranding names in full kits or tube-only at varying prices), but I don't keep track anymore.

Good luck!

 

[jonnypanic]

Ordered a Triple V (Young June) yesterday from Vaporbeast. This will be my first upgrade from the Twist, stoked!

 

[Tanya James]

I had a similar thing happen today. My lavatube was sitting in my lap ant fired on its own, then after a few taps on the activate button the whole thing shutt down. I took the battery out and made sure it was not hot which it wasnt. So I put it back in. I set it on the coffee table and a few mins it did it again. I called Volcano and they are sending out a new one and Ill send them this one.

 

[jjcordone]

That's because you hit the power button 6 times instead of 5... If you hit the button only 5 times, it's off, but if you hit the power button again it goes into zombie mode, and will fire at that low power level... That I can deal with, the random non stop full powered fire is what i'm worried about...

Wow, thanks for posting this, you just solved my problem with it going into zombie mode when I shut it off