A button getting so hot you can't touch it on any negative ground button mod indicates a short. Most likely in the atomizer but also possibly in the battery. First, back the center post way off so its not touching the atomizer center pin, reinstall new atomizer down tight , gently tighten the center post up until it makes contact with the atomizer. The next thing would be check your coil if its an rba to make sure it isn't shorting. Next check the bottom of the battery tube to make sure the preinstalled oring is still in place down in the bottom of the tube. Next check to make sure your battery doesn't have any rips or tears in its wrapping that cause a short. Theres really nothing in the mod itself that can go wrong to cause a short but there is a slim chance some metal debris could be bridging the gap between the center post and the outer cap, remove center post and top cap, wash with warm water and dishsoap, blow dry. Battery rattling sounds to me like the oring isn't in the bottom of the tube or its out of place, recheck.
Thanks for taking the time to reply, pal. I love the craftsmanship on your device and i'm just hoping any trouble shooting going on here might help anyone having issues in the future.
That being said, I have done some investigating. The first thing I did was install a new attie on top. I was still getting sporadic hot buttons. Then I took the mod apart and washed everything in warm water with dish soap and used a blowdryer to dry everything thoroughly. It seems that wasnt a fix either.
That is when I started to notice, that perhaps the button is acting strange and contributing to my issues. Usually, on a mech mod with a properly designed button, the circuit is either open or closed depending on if the button is depressed. On some mechanicals it is possible to get a weak/inefficient hit when you dont depress the button down far enough, resulting in a hot button due to a poor or incomplete contact.
My experiment consisted of a fresh, unjuiced rebuildable dripping atomizer sitting on top of my ELA with a fresh battery installed. I took the cap off of the RBA so I could see the coils clearly, and since the wicks were dry, I could see coils glow very easily. Having built/dry burned many dripper coils in the past, I know roughly how bright these coils should be glowing based off of their total resistance (which was .45ohms).
I began by fully depressing the button, and got what looked to be a completely normal glow from my coils. I repeated this step a few times for consistencies sake and everything seemed fine. The next step was to very slowly depress the button, watching for any sign of glowing from the coils. I noticed that before the button is fully depressed (pushed in as far as it can go in the button assembly) my coils were glowing very dull/weak and....the button was heating up! I repeated this step again many times to make sure and it seemed that something with my button was preventing it from either making full contact, or none at all. Somewhere in between a pressed and unpressed button there was something going on that trickled current through in a weird way, resulting in a weak hit and a hot button.
This experiment was done after I had washed everything, and please keep in mind the tone of this post is not meant to be defamatory in any way towards the ELA or Super T. I've waited a long time for this thing and truly wish to get to the bottom of what the issue may be