What you said. That's in large part V is what this thread has been about how best to locate the coil, with what, how. And the thread I joined and refer from, Metalhed's excellent
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/tips-tricks/463771-protank-cotton-rebuild-way-i-do.html which evolved into a contact coil (microcoil) discussion. So yeah, it's the only way to get it right and that the method is
repeatable otherwise you can't do it again, nor can anyone reading or listening on this thread. The tools and methods should be straightforward and accessible.
Look the KPT and the 510 connect is leaky, period. We've got an isolator that doesn't really seal. Tight enough and you can't use it as a ground. Seal it and it's single-use. We're stuck with it. Or we move on to another atomizer. Those are our choices. I have a love/hate relationship with the Protank but when I want to be mellow, that's the draw I like. When I want to chain hard, the PTK delivers with VW. But the key is keeping it dry. And once it's not
it
will continue to flood.
I've found several things can cause leaking. You're right, the first and obvious is
too little wick, or seeping into the slot. But another is the opposite but similar, inefficient vaporization. And that can certainly be from
too much wick. So simply removing a few fibers on a clean initial installation is a good test of that. Not when the tank's already in trouble. That done V, you can move on to the build itself.
The other cause of inefficient vaporization is shorts. And that's where building tight in a Protank pays off. The more precise and symmetrical the build and coil, the lower the likelihood of hot zones anywhere that would rob the rest or part of the coil of power (heat) and result in excess unvaporized juice which by virtue of gravity accumulates
at the 510 connection.
Would strongly suggest you look at my earlier post at hand tension winding as this will help assure you've got a functional and tight contact coil from the start. Legs pointing and wrapping in the right direction and orientation for termination. Angles are important to avoid hot legs and hot end turns. But not to ommit something easily missed is to watch the resistance at installation and refills for any squirrely changes. This could signal a shift of the coil that could produce flooding or that your positive isn't a hanging leg, coming in contact with the housing, shorting. It does not take much. So it's important you have a good coil to begin with and that it goes in (and stays in) right.
Also there is an issue with over-compression of the grommet. It's been discussed here by Trayce and the answer posted on various threads. Too firm seating of the insulator can cause it to bulge obstructing airflow. With both cotton and Nextel which flows extremely well, it becomes more critical as any such obstruction which may not be apparent without close inspection may be the bit too much. So check routinely that the grommet is as flush as possible when you check for the hanging positive leg. Tuck as necessary.
These few things I found constitute the bulk of problems with flooding or dry operation with the additional insufficient top wick (cap shorts). Usually I'd say flood away with the wick, the more the better. I put aside cotton for the Protank and tried yarn too, mostly experiencing over-saturation. There, since I didn't do the great number of builds and rebuilds I have since, I lack some experience with the effect of power. If it's inadequate vaporization, the answer is power! You are simply driving the coil you built at too low a wattage. You've over-spec'd the build at your preferred temperature level. So either bring up the voltage/wattage, or downsize your coil/wick. Don't know how tight the coil wick is (no picture) but you might try removing some fiber from the yarn.
There it is, the roundup of Protank misbehavior. A few thoughts I hope may be helpful in your forming a direction to solve this. I wish I had been more successful. Cotton density in a tank is difficult.
Happy New Year V, and good luck.
