Protege end cap issues

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EdGee

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Mar 9, 2009
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Way out there....
So far my Protege has been great. One question though when screwing on my end cap. The end cap goes almost all the way in with out screwing and then I get about one full turn and its locked. Does this mean only the bottom thread is threading in? is anyone elses like this? The end cap feels secure.


Yah mines the same way, waiting for it to just fly off and shot across the room someday.
 

d0kieSmok

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So far my Protege has been great. One question though when screwing on my end cap. The end cap goes almost all the way in with out screwing and then I get about one full turn and its locked. Does this mean only the bottom thread is threading in? is anyone elses like this? The end cap feels secure.

mine isnt like that @ all. I catch a thread at the very start of the threads..

Mine was very corse to begin with, and is now smooth as silk.

My only guess is that during the corse period, you unknowingly stripped some threads.

The threads are very tough though.. its STEEL =)
 

EdGee

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My only guess is that during the corse period, you unknowingly stripped some threads.

The threads are very tough though.. its STEEL =)

Nope, am a automotive tech by trade start threaded objects all day long. Came that way. Either cap is slightly undersize or tube threads are a little oversize.
 

them0nk

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i've put my .02 in about this already... but i did mark mine off, it does 3 complete turns. although after BARELY turning it goes to a completely loose feeling... to me having literally all the threads engaged it shouldn't feel loose like that.

I'm hating myself already for what follows, I already don't get responses from casey or cashmere with blunt questions in PMs like "Do you have an M-401 adapter for the protege in stock?"

Being an ex-machinist I know for a fact, eventually the end-cap to tube connection *will* fail. Having made Thousands of different parts with threads on them, FIXING threads other people screwed up, or in this case drilling, re-tapping, and inserting a bigger insert in something to put threads in something that has been stripped out (impossible to do with the protege). I can safely say I know what a bad pair of threads look like.

Seriously go open your machinists bible/handbook and look up how to make threads (every good engineer I've met has one, and so does every machinist I've met)... the internal threads are definitely not to recommended standards. The tube would've had to have been a larger diameter, the end-cap's threads would have a larger overall diameter, the threads would be cut deeper in the tube, and a WHOLE LOT more than just the very tip of the threads on the end-cap would be engaging. The inside threads should look a lot more like the threads on the end-cap, not just a tiny Feed-Line sized anomaly on the inside of the tube.

Great Visualization of this here:

800px-ISO_and_UTS_Thread_Dimensions.svg.png


The moment the threads on the end-cap get worn that cap is going to be worthless. YES they will wear, especially with the protected batteries that the protege was "designed for". Stainless on Stainless, or Any metal on Any like metal means they will Both wear from normal use. The added stress on the threads of the longer protected battery over daily & maybe even twice daily battery changes will take it's tole on the threads.

I don't know if they cheesed the threads on the prodigy like that, but I'm guessing they didn't... by now there would be a flood of complaints if they did.

Don't get me wrong, I love the protege - so far - but the moment those threads give out I'm gonna be one unhappy camper. Having to be oh so careful to just put the end-cap on there without cross-threading fearing I'll mess up the sharp threads of the end-cap and in turn render my protege completely useless somewhat sucks. The Protege could have been made the same diameter as the largest diameter of the adapter without having anyone fuss about the threads... or the potential for problems in the future.

I actually want to make another tube and end-cap - just to prove a point. I can EASILY make this tube on Manual Machines, and do it Right. Just because I look all pretty boy in that picture doesn't make me an idiot, or not know what I'm talking about, it's just making the time to go do it, and getting permission to borrow the machines. I could probably make it out of scrap in laying around in the shop too, solid piece of round stock would work.

If you pride yourself on "Made in America" and making something "Right" why did you break COMMON machinist & engineering lets say "Rules"?

Of course I don't really expect to be heard or get an answer, because if you can't answer if you have an adapter, you're not going to tell me why you thought cutting corners and priding yourself about it was a good idea.

Anyone who feels like it - go ahead Flame Me, but READ up before you do.

Sorry PS, It's been on my mind for a while now... and i thought maybe this being known will make the Prodigy v2 even better. Even if you don't reply to me, I currently don't like what i see in other mods, and will probably order the other adapters for the protege & even the prodigy v2...
 
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Toots

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Sep 13, 2009
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I'm always bad with threaded things but I how've found that if I hold the cap still and thread with the tube it is easier. I think the weight pushes the spring down just enough.

Thank you for the hint! I also have a wonky end cap problem with a threading mind of its own. I tried using your advice about using the tube to thread. It does work more reliably. I have also been cherishing my protege so much, that I have been careful to not mess up the threads. But it does seems to suck the cap on cross threaded if I use the cap as a guide.
 

Casey@PS

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Apr 14, 2009
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Hey them0nk, I have the perfect solution if the threads fail......

DUCT TAPE! ;)

NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!!!!! I beg you not to use that!!!!!!! Someone sent one back this week that had the end cap duct taped onto it (clearly a Prodigy that had the crap beaten out of it) and it was near impossible to get the working switch out. Please don't EVER do that!! Lol
 

randpost

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Sep 21, 2009
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I used a bar of soap on my threads. a dry bar. work a little onto the threads of the cap. screw it off and on a few times and then wipe off the excess. My threads are as smooth as a knife through warm butter now. I clean the threads once a week and reapply the soap. I tried aluminum anti locking compound(noalox), but it didn't work as well as it did on my aluminum battery mods I own. Soap works great.
 

vapn

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Jul 10, 2009
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I used a bar of soap on my threads. a dry bar. work a little onto the threads of the cap. screw it off and on a few times and then wipe off the excess. My threads are as smooth as a knife through warm butter now. I clean the threads once a week and reapply the soap. I tried aluminum anti locking compound(noalox), but it didn't work as well as it did on my aluminum battery mods I own. Soap works great.

That's what I use too.. It keeps the threads nice and smooth. And yea that noalox stuff is messy at best.
 

a2dcovert

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Apr 24, 2009
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I don't use anything on the threads. Your best performance of the protege or prodigy is a clean metal to metal contact. Almost any substance that isn't specifically designed to improve electrical connections will usually act as an insulator which will increase resistance of the circuit.

If you haven't noticed, nic juice that seeps into the atomizer to adapter connector will cause the PV performance to drop. If you don't regularly clean this connection you should try it and you will be surprised to notice the boost in performance.

The prodigy and protege are designed like an old fashion flashlight. Every piece of the assembly is a part of the electrical circuit. Any resistance will drop the voltage that powers the atomizer. My recommendation is to keep all the connections clean and the PV will give you better performance.

That's my take on the issue.

Kevin
 
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