Rayon wick, better flow, flavor, saturation and Nic Hit!
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I think I found the problem I was having with CC in CE3s. The CE3 has extremely limited clearance between the tank and the wick/coil chamber, as in maybe 1/16" and probably less (no micrometer to check it with). In my second attempt I used a little less CC through the coil, wrapped on a 14ga needle, and that helped but it still wasn't quite right. That was true whether the coil/wick was pulled down into the cup as it was designed to be or if the coil and wick sat on the top to make the wicks a "straight shot" out of the coil into the liquid. That gave me the hint I needed.
With the small clearance from the chamber to the tank wall the CC wick was getting bent, tightly, at that point. I took them both apart and trimmed the CC almost flush with the chamber and now thy work really well. I still may need to fool with exactly how much CC is used, overall, but things are looking up with my CE3 rebuilds using CC.
The Pro Tanks are awsum with CC! I also rebuilt two, old, Vgo T3s with standard, non-replaceable, coil elements. They are performing like a Pro Tank on a mod when they are on fixed voltage batteries. Amazing!
You folks using RBAs have a big advantage with the sizes involved and simply being able to easily access the coil/wick and "fine tune" to get to that sweet spot. The big trick I see in the future will be duplicating, very closely, the amount of CC used for each type of build.
My biggest complaint is all the bits of fluff hanging around after I get done rebuilding and trimming. Keep in mind I rebuild six or more at a time so it can get a little messy, LOL.
With the small clearance from the chamber to the tank wall the CC wick was getting bent, tightly, at that point. I took them both apart and trimmed the CC almost flush with the chamber and now thy work really well. I still may need to fool with exactly how much CC is used, overall, but things are looking up with my CE3 rebuilds using CC.
The Pro Tanks are awsum with CC! I also rebuilt two, old, Vgo T3s with standard, non-replaceable, coil elements. They are performing like a Pro Tank on a mod when they are on fixed voltage batteries. Amazing!
You folks using RBAs have a big advantage with the sizes involved and simply being able to easily access the coil/wick and "fine tune" to get to that sweet spot. The big trick I see in the future will be duplicating, very closely, the amount of CC used for each type of build.
My biggest complaint is all the bits of fluff hanging around after I get done rebuilding and trimming. Keep in mind I rebuild six or more at a time so it can get a little messy, LOL.
Yeah I hate throwing all that fluff away when I only have 499 feet left, lol. I was saving bits trimmed from cotton wicks but not so with CC.
If you get to a point with the amount, you can make a strip a couple of feet long, twist some kanthal around the tip and feed it through your coils. Cut to length at the other end.
If you get to a point with the amount, you can make a strip a couple of feet long, twist some kanthal around the tip and feed it through your coils. Cut to length at the other end.
Thanks for all the comments.
I like your suggestion best. I was actually thinking of trying 2 different things. 1.) a different juice with the same coil and the same amount of wicking and 2.) less wicking material. I felt I was using 'a lot' but it fit through the coil snuggly but then seemed looser once it was in place.
So I'll try your suggestion 1st (less CC for the wick) and see how it goes.
Thanks again everyone for offering your thoughts and suggestions.(Ain't ECF great for getting help)
There is definitely some trial and error beginning to use rayon. It's hard to judge off the bat. You have to see how it breaks in. There are two factors that stand out to help you tweak your density. Checking the wick after you vape it for an hour to a tank. Secondly gunk build up in the middle of the coil showing it's too tight. The ideal size is even with the coil od so it just goes straight out as an extension of the of the coil. The ideal wick would look something like this after break in or after a tank ...
Or something like this
Or this - The left side is going over a post that's why it's bunched up but see the right side.
---------
NOT
Not this-
speaking of verts, I just came up with a cone coil for my rose, and it's the best flavor I've had on the the rose yet. I finally received my cellucotton from a .png[/IMG]
the cone coil
here is the rose with cotton core and rayon wrap, super combo
I would use a needle to push the rayon towards the top coil and tuck a tuft by the ceramic, To hold it... If it's a problem.. Or same thing if the rayon loosens up on the core wrap. The rayon takes well to adding more even on top it kinda sticks to itself.
I just this phenomenon live in front of me. I was wicking a new kayfun and I put unflavored 95% VG and I noticed this color coming out of under the coil lol. I was blowing at the coil while firing it. I think it is pure caramelization of the VG.Asking for your thoughts and opinions 'bout this.
On my 3rd tank of DIY Pomegranate (TFA flavoring) w/ CC in an R91 the juice started looking much darker than normal and wasn't tasting good. Took it apart and the wick was all a light chocolate color. Cleaned everything up re-wicked and started over.
This time on 1/2 way through my 2nd tank it started getting an 'off flavor' taste again. The color of the juice in the tank still looked fine. So I just took it apart and the 'light chocolate' color is just beginning to build up on the wick (just one side - odd). I've not had this happen w/ this juice w/ cotton or ReadyX wick material.
So what da ya'll thinks going on?
I pulled the wick out to see what it looked like under the coil and it's not burnt - it actually looked fairly clean. It looks discolored but actually when I grapped the dirty end of the wick to pull it out - it squeezed the darkened juice in the area that was under the wick.
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So in my attempt to wick a new kayfun at 0.8 ohms, I'm having a problem with what seems to be a hot spot right in the middle of the coil. Should I go less rayon or more rayon? The shoulders seem puffy though.
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I had a thought after seeing some folks are getting hot spots in their coils and after reading DrByteh's post where he posted;
Watt Density (here abbreviated WD) is comprised of 3 things.
Diameter of the heating wire
Diameter of the coil
Spacing of the coil
Is it possible the hot spots are caused by coils touching? Electricity like water takes the path or least resistance, could it be while the coils are fired and hot electricity is jumping/shorting some of the coils? If that happens your resistance of the coil drops and heat rises, correct? Would leaving just a bit of spacing in the coils prevent this? Well if you get a coil with a hot spot, an easy test would be to spread the coils with a x-acto knife of something similar, clean and rewick and see if the hot spot goes away.
Don't know, just throwing a thought out there for what it's worth.
Watt Density (here abbreviated WD) is comprised of 3 things.
Diameter of the heating wire
Diameter of the coil
Spacing of the coil
Is it possible the hot spots are caused by coils touching? Electricity like water takes the path or least resistance, could it be while the coils are fired and hot electricity is jumping/shorting some of the coils? If that happens your resistance of the coil drops and heat rises, correct? Would leaving just a bit of spacing in the coils prevent this? Well if you get a coil with a hot spot, an easy test would be to spread the coils with a x-acto knife of something similar, clean and rewick and see if the hot spot goes away.
Don't know, just throwing a thought out there for what it's worth.
Ok, so I vape 80%VG/20%PG juice, and I think I'm using too much CC. Within 12 hours, performance seems to drop off for me.
Starts off great, then weaker, and weaker, to where the coil isn't getting enough juice, which leads me to believe I'm choking it off with too much CC.
Anyone experience something similar?
Starts off great, then weaker, and weaker, to where the coil isn't getting enough juice, which leads me to believe I'm choking it off with too much CC.
Anyone experience something similar?
Has anyone tried using rayon in a sub ohm build? I usually build really low and after reading more about this, I'm worried that extremely high wattage situations (75+) might cause the rayon to react or burn, it seems like it doesn't wick as well on hotter coils and I'm just nervous about possible health risks.
that is not happening since I can monitor the resistance by using a dna or sx chip. plus liquid makes it harder to short.
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It's mentioned many times in the 2000 posts.
Usually that's due to not enough and loss of contact with the coil. Something like the Last picture above.
See my post above please you have to ck the wick after an hour or a tank; to see what it looks like.
75 watts but you're worried about health risk?
btw, I have no answer for you. I know at 30 watts Rayon works just fine
I have had a vertial micro coil build in an eXpromizer for over a week now. Built it last Thrusday night and have done nothing to it but fill the tank. Tast just as clean as when I first built it. I've put probably 40+ml through this thing, pretty close to 100%VG. As of right now I still taste no reason to rewick it. I have a vcore coil in it running about 1.4ohms. I mostly run this one on my provari full out at 15W.
I also have a KFL+ that I rebuilt almost two weeks ago, will be two weeks on Sunday. That one I use for menthol in all stainless mode and have put probably 20+mg through that one. Standard 28g kanthal around 5/64th drill bit at 1.2ohms. It still taste great, no reason yet to rebuild. I am itching to rebuild it with a vcore coil, I hate tearing apart build that still vape great. I run it mostly around 13w. Also, since it is in all stainless mode with no window, I have no clue as to when its out of juice. The vape starts to taste kinda funny, then I refill it and it's good to go.
On cotton pushing past 10w or so I would get a dry hit. Only thing I have noticed with the CC, is because it wicks so well, and can take more heat, I need to make sure my draws are harder pulls. If I take a lazy draw, I notice something of a funky flavour. Other than that, to go a week plus on the same wick is excellent.
I also have a KFL+ that I rebuilt almost two weeks ago, will be two weeks on Sunday. That one I use for menthol in all stainless mode and have put probably 20+mg through that one. Standard 28g kanthal around 5/64th drill bit at 1.2ohms. It still taste great, no reason yet to rebuild. I am itching to rebuild it with a vcore coil, I hate tearing apart build that still vape great. I run it mostly around 13w. Also, since it is in all stainless mode with no window, I have no clue as to when its out of juice. The vape starts to taste kinda funny, then I refill it and it's good to go.
On cotton pushing past 10w or so I would get a dry hit. Only thing I have noticed with the CC, is because it wicks so well, and can take more heat, I need to make sure my draws are harder pulls. If I take a lazy draw, I notice something of a funky flavour. Other than that, to go a week plus on the same wick is excellent.
Yes and yes. Some of the original users like Brianc run below .5. I run high voltage 1.4 ohm 32 @ 6v , no problem if wicked right. My coils are super hot, blots out the sun. I've posted a video of my dry burn.
See here- 32g dry burn at high voltage - YouTube
This is at less than a second!!!! ... after one second it looks like a bright light. You can't even see
The coil only blinding light.
After a second
Cotton or hemp can not stand up to this, that's why I use rayon and that's why I started this thread.
Similar to cotton but different you have to have the correct density.
Just cause you at 75w doesn't mean your build is hotter. Depends on the gauge, many say low gauge super sine ohm is actually a cooler vape.
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tip update!
It's better to pull the rayon section you want off instead of cutting it.
That leaves a nice tapered tail for you to point!
It's better to pull the rayon section you want off instead of cutting it.
That leaves a nice tapered tail for you to point!
i only vape sub-ohm and have only had stellar performance with cc.
.22 up to .37 in drippers....
.47ohm in a fogger v4.3,
.55 dual coils in a kayfun, the other kayfun is .6ohms but only single coil with kayfun drilled out
.67 dual coils in a taifun gt
once i played around with it and learned the right amount to wick with, only stellar results.....no problems at all
all the problems ive seen are due to wicking error.
going sub-ohm is no problem at all. in fact i would say rayon is begging for you to nail it with all the power you can.
if your used to 9 watts...go to 10-11...
if you use mechs.....drop your ohms.....
ive found that rayon will handle anything you can throw at it..
you just have to play around and figure out the right amount to put in your coil.
the 1.5 rule is a very very good place to start.
i know that when everyone started using cotton there was a learning curve......
there will be a curve here ...but it will be quicker
.22 up to .37 in drippers....
.47ohm in a fogger v4.3,
.55 dual coils in a kayfun, the other kayfun is .6ohms but only single coil with kayfun drilled out
.67 dual coils in a taifun gt
once i played around with it and learned the right amount to wick with, only stellar results.....no problems at all
all the problems ive seen are due to wicking error.
going sub-ohm is no problem at all. in fact i would say rayon is begging for you to nail it with all the power you can.
if your used to 9 watts...go to 10-11...
if you use mechs.....drop your ohms.....
ive found that rayon will handle anything you can throw at it..
you just have to play around and figure out the right amount to put in your coil.
the 1.5 rule is a very very good place to start.
i know that when everyone started using cotton there was a learning curve......
there will be a curve here ...but it will be quicker
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