Rayon wick, better flow, flavor, saturation and Nic Hit!

[Viluxia]

I really should try and use the Rayon i got months ago, i put it away for 2 reasons, i couldnt seem to get the amount right and i still dont know if it was a placebo effect but got an itchy dry throat when i did use it, which could also be down to the fact i couldnt get the amount right in the coil - i guess when you have been using cotton for a while moving to this stuff will take a while to adjust to. Ive seen people get 2 thinner strands and pull them through the coil from opposite sides, would this be the easiest way before i go find my stash (memory like a fish)

Going to be putting it in a kayfun V4 with a 2mm ID coil 28gauge.

 

[jaxgator]

One of my biggest problems is that I tend to forget to check my juice levels by the end of the day, especially while driving in the dark and I'm so distracted that sometimes I don't notice I'm about the get a nasty dry hit... Temp control seems to be great but for me, avoiding dry hits would be the cherry on top of the cake.

You should be avoiding dry hits when using TP. As the wick begins to dry out, the board will throttle the wattage down, thereby avoiding dry hits.

I run my Erlks typically in the 480F range pushing 24-27w and don't get any dry hits nor is my wick charred when broken down and inspected.

I don't see where a used wick would ever be completely dry so testing it dry is not really a valid test imo.

As Holman stated, TP is more about keeping the temperature of your juice below a certain point so we do't inhale by products of over cooked juice. Avoided dry hits is benefit of this process but not the intended process.

I really should try and use the Rayon i got months ago, i put it away for 2 reasons, i couldnt seem to get the amount right and i still dont know if it was a placebo effect but got an itchy dry throat when i did use it, which could also be down to the fact i couldnt get the amount right in the coil - i guess when you have been using cotton for a while moving to this stuff will take a while to adjust to. Ive seen people get 2 thinner strands and pull them through the coil from opposite sides, would this be the easiest way before i go find my stash (memory like a fish)

Going to be putting it in a Kayfun V4 with a 2mm ID coil 28gauge.

I'm not sure how much of this thread you've read but rayon is a completely different wicking material compared to cotton. You essentially need to forget everything you know about wicking with cotton and start from the beginning.

Cotton expands when wet. Because of this, we don't want to put too much in the coil Otherwise, it will swell and choke the coil. Rayon does not expand when wet. Therefore we want to put more in the coil than we do with coton.

Inserting a piece from either end of the coil has been dubbed "Double Insertion Method". Although I have never tried this method, others have with great success. Using this method ensures that the shoulders are even on both sides of the coil. I achieve this by sliding the wick back and forth once I've got it in the coil.

Jeremy has posted videos showing his wicking technique in this thread. If I'm not mistaken, he's linked to it in his blogs so you might want to check that out. The best part of the video is not what is seen but what is heard. Once you've got the rayon to the proper volume, you'll hear something similar to a squeak.

Post up pix of your builds and ask questions. There are many knowledgeable people that frequent this thread that will be more than happy to help you.

Once you get it right with rayon, you'll be in vaping heaven.

 

[JeremyR]

Well using rayon seems to intensify every agent in the juice. Like pg will be more pronoubced and could cause more of a side effect causing one to change their ratio to accommodate..

But really most likely if you are stuck in a cotton mindset you did not use enough density. The most common problem for a beginner. Which can also cause an irritation with the coil running hot.

The two piece method it a hood way to get plenty in there. You want it pretty snug.

In a trial with two piece you can wick it really tight.. Soak it down real good and try it, if you taste the woody rayon you know there's enough and you can pull them back little by little and try until the woody/nutty taste is gone then you should be at the correct density and you can finish up trimming your tails.

You need to trim a considerable amount if wick out at the bend down. Trim it all nice so each side looks lime a mullet. Lol

 

[JeremyR]

Double post..

Good luck post back with questions or good pics!

 

[JeremyR]

Didn't try cotton but it should be similar I guess? I have some muji pads somewhere. I could try that although I never used them before.

Regards
Tony

Sent from my GT-I9195 through Tapatalk

"Je suis Charlie" - R. I. P.

Yeah once its wet the coil will burn before the rayon in any set up.... tc will limit the wattage and your vapor will fall off..

Remember that nasty dry hit is the coil overheating! Not the rayon burning.

I went 180ml with no dna at 6v and many partial dry hits but the wick never burned only the coil carbons up on dry hits from the coil overheating.

You may need to tune into the vapor change before the dry hit so you sense it ahead of time.. Fill up before you leave work as you know its almost dry.

Leaving a larger shoulder length up top will allow a little more reserve. You may be trimming a little too close the the coil.

 

[chomper33]

So it seems I haven't seen any health related problems popping up yet. I bought some rayon back when this thread was just a baby. Now it is all grown up an 1029 pages old. I have tried it, and liked it, but just was a little too worried to use it normally. I guess I might go ahead and try using it some more.

Guinea Pigs, I salute you!

 

[JeremyR]

Hey chomper,

The point of my op was to determine its safety and efficacy... And we have done that ten times over.

Its as safe as cigarette paper, even safer because its hard to burn.

The lack of gunking shows it is safer as well... doing what d40 does but in a wick performance itself.

Pop in with any questions or issues so we can help you out, if needed!

 

[Tbev]

Did you get you dna40 settings dialed in? I run mine around 420-440 @40w but I run saga bottom feeder so I don't get dry hits anyways. I've needed actually checked but my wicks always last forever.

 

[tchavei]

Well I finished a tank today and surprisingly the vapor just faded and the dna just went into constant temperature protection mode. I guess I would need to keep pushing it for quite some time without any vapor to actually dry the wick enough for it to start to scorch.

I'm pretty happy with it working so far. I'm still running it only at 394F though. I like the cool vape but I might up it a bit to get a little more thicker vapor.

Thx for all the input guys.

Regards
Tony

Sent from my GT-I9195 through Tapatalk

"Je suis Charlie" - R. I. P.

 

[mudram99]

Good idea. Maybe I should start keeping the log too. Or it maybe too late... LOL

Holy Crud batman! I thought I was bad! I called my wife back here, showed her that and I should be good for a while now!

 

[SlickWilly]

Well I finished a tank today and surprisingly the vapor just faded and the dna just went into constant temperature protection mode. I guess I would need to keep pushing it for quite some time without any vapor to actually dry the wick enough for it to start to scorch.

I'm pretty happy with it working so far. I'm still running it only at 394F though. I like the cool vape but I might up it a bit to get a little more thicker vapor.

Thx for all the input guys.

Regards
Tony

Sent from my GT-I9195 through Tapatalk

"Je suis Charlie" - R. I. P.

Good deal! I'm with you, I like a cool vape. I don't care about blowing clouds, as long as I'm not blowing actual smoke I'm happy, that's my goal! Have you noticed a harder nic hit? Most of us had to drop our nic levels about 25% once we started using rayon, which is another good thing in more ways then one.

 

[AMDTrucking]

Holy Crud batman! I thought I was bad! I called my wife back here, showed her that and I should be good for a while now!

Always glad to be of service LOL

 

[AMDTrucking]

I'm sorry for the coil porn again.

I just received my rDNA40 from Vapor Shark and Taifun GT II

Built it with 28 AWG Ni200 and Rayon, of course

 

[Kingboomer]

Your pics never cease to amaze me man. I hope that one day I can afford that big of a case of shinyitis


-Kingboomer

 

[AMDTrucking]

Your pics never cease to amaze me man. I hope that one day I can afford that big of a case of shinyitis


-Kingboomer

I, of course had to look up the word: "Shinyitis"

When you feel a compulsion to acquire a new and shiny gadget. Of course you don't need it, you already have lots and lots of gadgets. But you want something new and you want it in your hands now, to turn over and admire and fondle.
The term originated on the vaping forums. Vaping is the (sometimes obsessive) utilisation of electronic cigarettes.

 

[awsum140]

Just because I always have at least four different mods within arms length does not mean I'm obsessed. I like variety LOL. And AMD, I know you have even more!

 

[AMDTrucking]

Just because I always have at least four different mods within arms length does not mean I'm obsessed. I like variety LOL. And AMD, I know you have even more!

I have so many within my reach, that I sometimes forget where my gear shifter is. That's why I got me a truck with automatic transmission. LOL

 

[artv61]

I am not sure if anyone has come across this but recently I have been doing twisted 32 coils in a variety of small chamber atty's with Rayon and found that after wrapping and test firing them the coils shrink a bit, you can actually see it 1st fire. I thought this may be of interest due to having to get rayon tighter in coil. I think this may have something to do with people saying wick seems to be breaking in. I have been watching this on the last couple of dripper coils i did and after a short time ,wick that i thought was to little or lose in coils appears to be much tighter than initial build. I have only seen on twisted 32 as i havent tried on larger gauge yet.
Just my input and 2 cents

 

[cobalt327]

I have received three Kayfun V4 Clones. One by ToBeCo for $30.00, which is perfect in every way except maybe for some oil, some dirt, few metal shavings/chips and bad drip tip O-Rings. Which is easily fixed. It has Silver plated Beryllium Copper spring and 510 Center Pin. The other two: One from FastTech and one from GearBest for $18.00 each are complete waste of money. Even though, they are from two different sources, they both appear to be identical. Equally bad.
1. They are full of machine oil, dirt and chips.
2. Some of many holes were filled with metal chips and one was not drilled all the way through.
3. The spring, that carries Positive (+) charge is made out steel (It is attracts to the magnet)
4. 510 Center Pin is made out of Stainless Steel.
5. Here comes a really bad news: Four milled sides of the “UC Upper Section” Part #8 that goes into a square opening of “UC Middle Section” item #5 are cut 0.3mm too deep. Which made it impossible to fasten “UC Counter Screw” Item #9 tight enough. Because tightening the screw will not allow the lower base section to be turned by hand, therefore assemble the unit, and control the flow of the juice. If you will not tighten that screw, you could turn the lower section but will have bad Negative (-) electrical connection. I filed “Seal Ring 13x1” Item #7 by 0.3mm thinner to be able to allow for turning of the base. It worked for a while, but I still got intermittently bad Negative (-) connection.
As you can see on the left side of the picture, I shorted both terminals with a piece of wire. The Ohmmeter should read something close to 0.0 Ohms, but it reads 4.23 Ohms. When I touch the bottom of the base and the middle of it with a pair of tweezers, providing the negative connection manually, it shows 0.5 Ohms. About right considering the resistance of my tweezers.
I marked problematic areas with red arrows on the picture.

The post above I found to be spot-on. On my KFv4 (from GB), I modified the "Seal ring" #7 by thinning it. Mine started out at 0.044" (~1.1mm), taking it down to 0.028" (~0.7mm) allowed "UC counter screw" #9 to be fully tightened yet allowed the "UC middle section" #5 to turn with just a little resistance. Some resistance is needed to keep the setting stable- too loose and it turns too easily. And obviously too tight and the #5 will not turn at all. The biggest problem with tightening #9 "just enough" to allow the UC middle section" #5 to turn instead of thinning #7 is high resistance- #9 has to be TIGHT! I mentioned removing material from one side of the seal ring, this is so there will be one square side to measure from. Using a felt tip marker to color the side being sanded will also help to keep the amount removed equal.

FWIW I found that a rubber O-ring will work, although I'm unsure of what the long term durability would be. If anyone would like to try an O-ring, the dimensions of the seal ring is 0.600" (~ 15.25 mm) OD x 0.508" (~ 13 mm) ID. So an O-ring having the dimensions of 15 mm OD x 13 mm ID x 0.7-ish mm thick will be in the ballpark. These are what the dimensions are on MY atty, be sure to check yours before buying anything.

FWIW II, after doing the thinning to the seal ring I gave it a thorough cleaning- the oil was very tenacious and stunk to high hell, it took several ultrasonic dips and cleaning with denatured alcohol to finally get rid of the oil smell. I recommend taking it completely apart for cleaning before using, down to the deck screws and all O-rings (mine was missing O-ring #31 and would have leaked like a sieve had I not caught it, the spares kit had one thankfully). Taking it down all the way is no big deal IMHO, what with a large drawing of the parts and their relation to one another to assist with dis- and reassembly. After cleaning and reassembling it w/the tall clear tank (made of plastic of some sort, neither clear tank sections are glass), I built it w/a low-tech 1.2 ohm horizontal spaced coil, wicked it w/rayon (dbl. insertion), filled it w/some ITC Vapes SLv2 and fired it up at 12 watts just to get a feel for it. I have to say, I like it. A lot, actually. It isn't made to chase clouds but still manages to do okay on that front. But where it really shines IMHO is the flavor, ease of filling and ease of building it. Maybe a tick below the Aqua v2 but it can give it a run for its money for flavor- and to me that's saying something. So for me it is worth the $17.00 I paid for it.

 

[awsum140]

There you go, destroying that myth again, AMD. An automatic in an 18 wheeler? Perish the thought!

(I've herded 18 wheelers, too, and would have killed for an auto....too much shifting in the traffic around here!)

Out of curiosity, have you seen an improvement in miles per gallon with the auto versus a manual? They are supposedly more efficient.