Rayon wick, better flow, flavor, saturation and Nic Hit!

[HolmanGT]

I wasn't very satisfied with my previous (first) build on my Taifun GT II. Not that it didn't work, but it just didn't produce enough Vapor/Flavor like my Ni200 Rose V2, kayfun V4, Fogger and Squape R. But I felt it could do better, so I tried, and I tried, and I tried all kinds of Ni200 builds. Until I did this:
26 AWG Ni200 3.5mm ID Micro Coil (spaced coil wouldn't fit) at 0.14Ω and Trimmed Rayon wick.

I'm a happy camper now. It is set for 450F and 40W and produces a lot of worm, dense , flavorful vapor. It throws a large air bubble every single puff I take.

AMD, nice as usual.

Have you tried the hardened Ni200? I order some and it came in today the wrong size but what I got was 28 Ga. I saw someone else post that it was hard or harder than Kanthal.

Let me tell you this stuff is definitely harder than Kanthal. You know the little piece they fold back in the spool notch... well I went to flip it up with my thumb just as I do with the Annealed Ni200 stuff and drew blood and the little pig-tail did even move, and no I am not kidding.

I haven't used it yet but just as soon as I can I will give it a try and let you know how it goes.

PS - it is from: StealthVape

 

[AMDTrucking]

AMD, nice as usual.

Have you tried the hardened Ni200? I order some and it came in today the wrong size but what I got was 28 Ga. I saw someone else post that it was hard or harder than Kanthal.

Let me tell you this stuff is definitely harder than Kanthal. You know the little piece they fold back in the spool notch... well I went to flip it up with my thumb just as I do with the Annealed Ni200 stuff and drew blood and the little pig-tail did even move, and no I am not kidding.

I haven't used it yet but just as soon as I can I will give it a try and let you know how it goes.

PS - it is from: StealthVape

Please do tell, when you try it. I also would like to know what happens with it's hardness once you try to glow it red hot. Will it become soft again?
Because, like in this Taifun GT II build. Spaced 28 AWG coil just wasn't producing good enough for me and I made 26 AWG large "Micro" coil because I couldn't fit spaced coil that size in it. As you know, I had to dry burn that micro coil to adjust it to glow evenly throughout the entire coil and that could only be done by dry firing it without the Temperature Control turned on.

 

[HolmanGT]

Please do tell, when you try it. I also would like to know what happens with it's hardness once you try to glow it red hot. Will it become soft again?
Because, like in this Taifun GT II build. Spaced 28 AWG coil just wasn't producing good enough for me and I made 26 AWG large "Micro" coil because I couldn't fit spaced coil that size in it. As you know, I had to dry burn that micro coil to adjust it to glow evenly throughout the entire coil and that could only be done by dry firing it without the Temperature Control turned on.

I will let you know but it is late so I probably won't build until tomorrow but I may torch a piece tonight if I do I let you know how that goes.

 

[JeremyR]

Soooo Rayon, yeah? I haven't had much luck with this stuff so far. Tried wicking it really tight, or really loose; tried tapering off the legs of the wick or leaving them as they were. Still getting a burnt taste after a couple hours of use, with no physical signs of the wicks burning. I'm using premium e juices, usually 70/30 vg/pg. Blends. Anyone know what I could be doing wrong?

Hey jclifford, welcome.

Your issue is the wick in the coil is not dense enough. It should be tight, pretty snug. You need to finess the wick in to get it snug but not overly tight. You'll start to hear or feel a squeaking in the coil when its dense enough.

The burnt taste was the coil overheating because of poor wick contact... After a short while the rayon wick will reduce in size as the all the air is replaced by juice and the fibers come together tighter.

 

[AMDTrucking]

I've just finished putting together my home made Vapor Flask DNA40. Came out OK, only I decided not to install USB port.

 

[tchavei]

AMD, nice as usual.

Have you tried the hardened Ni200? I order some and it came in today the wrong size but what I got was 28 Ga. I saw someone else post that it was hard or harder than Kanthal.

Let me tell you this stuff is definitely harder than Kanthal. You know the little piece they fold back in the spool notch... well I went to flip it up with my thumb just as I do with the Annealed Ni200 stuff and drew blood and the little pig-tail did even move, and no I am not kidding.

I haven't used it yet but just as soon as I can I will give it a try and let you know how it goes.

PS - it is from: StealthVape

I can confirm this. I was suprised at how hard my ni200 was. Its much easier to do a coil with it than with kanthal. And just like you, I drew first blood when I unwrapped the wire for the first time

Regards
Tony

 

[JeremyR]

How to wick, the right way, troubleshoot, trouble shooting, troubleshooting


Thread search troubleshooting

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...13554450.html?highlight=Not+this#post13554450

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...st14265841.html?highlight=How+to#post14265841

thread search videos also, or a post by notorious tbev - video video video

using two pieces is a good way to do it also, thread search - bump or double insertion

The most important thing is trials and inspection for coil contact after 3-4 ml of if you have a funny taste.

Thread search - heart for tail explanation , look for posts by me..

Most have best luck thinning the tails. Some builds can be done with full tails depending on the atty and coil size. most are very short wicks or very low capacity drippers, or very small coils.

Of course jax explained it well

Not this!
You don't want it to look like this after a tank, you'll have coil dry hits .

This is the link to one of the how to posts and trouble shooting troubleshooting posts.

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...13554450.html?highlight=Not+this#post13554450

Same as above but posting again since I can't quote it because it's all quotes.


100ml club is of course people that have thier rayon wick tuned right and are getting 100ml on a coil and wick with no maintenance.

Some trouble shooting posts for you jclifford

 

[JeremyR]

Here's a build I did a while back this shows the wick after a tank of juice.. This is the minimum density. If you push the edge of the wick and it exposes a gap at the edge of the coil , at any time, it's not tight enough.



Notice how big the piece I start with is.. As your pulling through when it stops you stretch it a little to even out and reduce density. Hold it close and you can pull it through snuggly.

 

[readeuler]

Here's a build I did a while back this shows the wick after a tank of juice.. This is the minimum density. If you push the edge of the wick and it exposes a gap at the edge of the coil , at any time, it's not tight enough.



Notice how big the piece I start with is.. As your pulling through when it stops you stretch it a little to even out and reduce density. Hold it close and you can pull it through snuggly.

Great pics, Jeremy! Especially considering I've been using 2mm ID for a while

Around 18mm (judging from the battery) down to 2mm, huh? Craziness! I'll have to practice the stretching to get it in the coil. Maybe this wick I've got now isn't too much rayon... Time will tell!

 

[JeremyR]

Oh yeah it was stretched down.. Kinda just to show that you need to use a lot for people comming off cotton.

If your tasting the rayon notes on the first hits you do have enough in the coil. Ideal density is just short of tasting it. Pure juice flavor on first hit but doesnt loose contact. If you taste woody rayon for only a couple hits your fine and haven't gone too far over on tightness.

Could just be a needle sized amount over on density at 5 hits.

 

[JeremyR]

All these are too light, lost contact after break-in. Even the first looked OK but didn't hold up to high heat, over 325 MW/mm². Pushing on the edge of wick exposed that small gap.

 

[HolmanGT]

I can confirm this. I was suprised at how hard my ni200 was. Its much easier to do a coil with it than with kanthal. And just like you, I drew first blood when I unwrapped the wire for the first time

Regards
Tony

Tony,

I haven't built with it yet but sometime today I am going to give it a go. but I can't see any problems building with it and pulling wicks thru it. I could always get a pretty good coil with regular Ni200 but getting a wick thru that soft stuff was a real PITA.

 

[HolmanGT]

Oh yeah it was stretched down.. Kinda just to show that you need to use a lot for people comming off cotton.

If your tasting the rayon notes on the first hits you do have enough in the coil. Ideal density is just short of tasting it. Pure juice flavor on first hit but doesnt loose contact. If you taste woody rayon for only a couple hits your fine and haven't gone too far over on tightness.

Could just be a needle sized amount over on density at 5 hits.

Jeremy,

You folks must have some pretty acute taste buds. The worst rayon wick I ever used either didn't work (wick) very well but I have never tasted anything like woody, paper or "Rayon Notes". "Rayon Notes", that sounds like a term used by wine coinsures.

 

[JeremyR]

You've never got over the threshold then. Everyone should get there in the beginning. Its the best way to know how much is too much.. Then dial it back a bit...

In the genny your probably wicking it kinda light to try to overcome the gravity fault.

I've been called a rayon wick connoisseur.

 

[tchavei]

Tony,

I haven't built with it yet but sometime today I am going to give it a go. but I can't see any problems building with it and pulling wicks thru it. I could always get a pretty good coil with regular Ni200 but getting a wick thru that soft stuff was a real PITA.

I was cautious at first because of all the reports about ni200 being so difficult to wrap and keep a shape that I went strait to the "hardened" version and it's a no brainer. It holds shape way better than any kanthal. No problem at all except keeping it under the post screws

Regards
Tony

Sent from my phone through a keyboard (or something like that)

 

[AMDTrucking]

I was cautious at first because of all the reports about ni200 being so difficult to wrap and keep a shape that I went strait to the "hardened" version and it's a no brainer. It holds shape way better than any kanthal. No problem at all except keeping it under the post screws

Regards
Tony

Sent from my phone through a keyboard (or something like that)

But you have to dry burn it at some point to burn the gunk buildup of it, even if you don't want to dry burn it initially to see how evenly it glows.

Does the temped nickel become annealed nickel after dry burning?

 

[HolmanGT]

But you have to dry burn it at some point to burn the gunk buildup of it, even if you don't want to dry burn it initially to see how evenly it glows.

Does the temped nickel become annealed nickel after dry burning?

AMD,

I am confused (my normal state) did you say you had 32, 28 and 26 Ga Tempered wire?

 

[BNEAT]

It's my understanding that Nickel is not heat-treatable, which leads me to believe that annealing will not be an issue.

edit: I'm going by what I've read on this site, I haven't researched this myself

 

[justdoeit]

The PTB can obviously do as they see fit. But- IMO, and not wanting to sound argumenative- it just seems that if they provided a banner in the first place it was for their exposure. It's not like there's any real benefit to the one displaying the banner- no claim to fame, as it were. It's the project that stands to benefit far more, unless I'm missing something. Anyway, the banner is still there. It was a now-dead link that I was curious about.

Im almost sure it's the same as mine. It was a banner for the Calculator site "Since my last...." that showed how long you've quit and the amount of $$ saved. BUT the site added a small ad to the banner and ECF removed them completely. And even though they've removed the ad, ECF wont allow SML back

 

[HolmanGT]

It's my understanding that Nickel is not heat-treatable, which leads me to believe that annealing will not be an issue.

edit: I'm going by what I've read on this site, I haven't researched this myself

Just as soon as I get my backside off the couch I will take a torch to a small piece and let you know what happens. I don't have a clue personally but I would assume it is like a lot of other cold drawn wire. It comes out hard as the be-jiggers but a little torching softens it right up. I used to work with 24k gold wire used for gaskets and off the spool it was pretty stiff but torch it a little and it became very soft, wouldn't even support it own weight.

I am going to go torch a little piece right now and let you know how it goes.

Back in a bit.