Rayon wick, better flow, flavor, saturation and Nic Hit!

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tchavei

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But you have to dry burn it at some point to burn the gunk buildup of it, even if you don't want to dry burn it initially to see how evenly it glows.

Does the temped nickel become annealed nickel after dry burning?
I guess that depends on the temperature applied. I can't remember the values when I did some research but the temperatures needed to harden nickel were quite high. Problem at the time also was knowing the kind of "temper" that was made as there were 3 methods at least requiring different working temperatures. Next time I rewick, I will dry burn the coil and see if it gets any softer.

Regards
Tony

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readeuler

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You've never got over the threshold then. Everyone should get there in the beginning. Its the best way to know how much is too much.. Then dial it back a bit...

In the genny your probably wicking it kinda light to try to overcome the gravity fault.

I've been called a rayon wick connoisseur. :)

I like this advice, it's my current plan. I'd been happily staying under the threshold to avoid the breakin taste, but now that I've crossed it, gotta work my way down (I should have saved my clipping for the "too much" reference).

It's an undeniable fact that you're a rayon connoisseur. I'm pretty sure we covered your rayon cellar with the Tidi, melatonin, delascos, and so on :D
 

HolmanGT

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I just did a little reading, and Ni200 most certainly can be annealed

BNEAT,

I just torched a six inch piece and it definitely can be annealed.

I really gave it the business with my small butane torch and it is definitely softer best guess about the same as the annealed US vendors sell.

However I think I would rather work with the tempered even if after a long use period if it softens IMHO it would be easier to just pitch the whole thing coil and wick and build a new one real quick and be back in business. God knows the wire and definitely the rayon is cheap enough that saving the coil for reuse is no big deal in my book.

Building and wicking with the Tempered wire should be as easy as it is with Kanthal. With soft Ni200 sometime it takes me two or three tries to get a coil in and wicked - a real PITA.
 

HolmanGT

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No, annealed.

Oh, well we all know I am a little slow but I did stay at a "Holiday Inn last night". ;)

Just above your post I posted the troch test and it does go soft. But like I said I think I would rather work with the tempered wire so I can get a build on the first try and if I have to pitch the whole thing coil and wick and use a new build.

With the soft stuff I have sneezed and had to scrap the whole Damx mess and start over. Heck even with out a sneeze I have had to use multiple attempts to get it right.

I think even with tempered 32 Ga I could do a successful build on the first go which IMHO is almost impossible with annealed 32 Ga. With the annealed 32 Ga if you even look at it wrong you get to start over.

The only reason I am fascinated with the hardened 32 Ga is it should make rebuilding an Atty like the fogger a piece of cake rather than a nightmare from He!!.
 

AMDTrucking

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BNEAT,

I just torched a six inch piece and it definitely can be annealed.

I really gave it the business with my small butane torch and it is definitely softer best guess about the same as the annealed US vendors sell.

However I think I would rather work with the tempered even if after a long use period if it softens IMHO it would be easier to just pitch the whole thing coil and wick and build a new one real quick and be back in business. God knows the wire and definitely the rayon is cheap enough that saving the coil for reuse is no big deal in my book.

Building and wicking with the Tempered wire should be as easy as it is with Kanthal. With soft Ni200 sometime it takes me two or three tries to get a coil in and wicked - a real PITA.

That's what I was afraid of. I'm going to skip getting Ni200 Tempered wire, because I don't see any benefit in it and I already have tons of Ni200 Annealed wire, and I like to dry burn my coils. I'm using an infamous "Double-insertion" method of wicking.

Moreover, the new Yihi SX350J, Golden Greek VIR and Dicodes chips with Temp. Control are designed to use Stainless Steel and Titanium wire. I know Rossum has been using Titanium for a while. As for SS, then MIG Welding wire is widely available in all sizes.
 

tchavei

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I'll keep my tempered one, thank you :)

Like Holman said it, just make a new coil when you need it. Besides, I'm pretty sure that if you pulse the coil shortly, it won't be enough to soften it to a point you can't wick it without deforming it. At least that's my hope.

What about shock cooling it after a dry burn? Would it work like iron / steel? We have tons of tests to do :)

Regards
Tony

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HolmanGT

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I'll keep my tempered one, thank you :)

Like Holman said it, just make a new coil when you need it. Besides, I'm pretty sure that if you pulse the coil shortly, it won't be enough to soften it to a point you can't wick it without deforming it. At least that's my hope.

What about shock cooling it after a dry burn? Would it work like iron / steel? We have tons of tests to do :)

Regards
Tony

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Tony,

That would be an interesting test but everything I have read says you can't heat harden Ni200. I have now idea why that is but apparently you can work harden it and I assume that is how the Tempered stuff is made via the extrusion process. :confused:
 

AMDTrucking

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Yeah, 32ga Ni200 is a real pain, especially with Rayon! I have that in one of my Foggers, and at one point I switched back to KGD just to keep from destroying my coils with Rayon. It didn't last long: that wet t-shirt flavor just never seemed to go away!

You are not going to believe it, but my favorite Ni200/Rayon built Atomizer is Lemo. I know you have it hybrid with eVIC Supreme, but you've got to try it on DNA40
 

BNEAT

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You are not going to believe it, but my favorite Ni200/Rayon built Atomizer is Lemo. I know you have it hybrid with eVIC Supreme, but you've got to try it on DNA40

Oh, hell yeah! 2 out my 3 Lemos are full of Ni200/Rayon!! That's the best temp control tank going, in my opinion

edit: the only reason the 3rd one doesn't have Nickel in it is because my poor old eVic would be lonely without a Lemo on top
 
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HolmanGT

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From what I'm reading, as long as you keep it below 800 degrees C (1,475F), you can dryburn all day!...

I would say pulsing carefully would do the job

When I torched tested the tempered Ni200 and it went limp I really torched it. The wire was glowing yellow/red which is considerably higher temperature than a 600 watt pulse.

Another test to be made at 600 degrees.
 

jaxgator

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I could always get a pretty good coil with regular Ni200 but getting a wick thru that soft stuff was a real PITA.

Same here. I switched to KGD for a while because I kept destroying Ni200 coils when wicking with rayon. I was using 28g 10 wrap spaced coils.

I've since started using twisted 30g and have gone back to using rayon as my wicking material.

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HolmanGT

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Twisted 30awg is what I've been using for Rayon, too. It's totally wickable, and now that I know to keep my dryburns below 1,475 degrees, maybe it will be even better.

Well I was going to try the twisted 30 ever since Kiwi post his. Now that I have the 30 Ga Tempered I am going to try it first before going the twisted route. Just can't stand not knowing how the Tempered wire will perform.
 
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