Rayon wick, better flow, flavor, saturation and Nic Hit!

[awsum140]

I was thinking ordering tempered 30 next. Is that one giving you trouble?

I think my latest build is too low (0.11 Ohms) but I can't fit more than 10 spaced wraps on my erlp deck.

One thing that bugs me with tempered 28g is that even tough I tighten down the screws hard and double wrap the leg around it, sometimes the wire isn't 100% secure... Then I tighten it down even harder and the wire snaps... I wish there was some simple technique to hold ni wire easily in place.


And a left hand screw to help... Hard to find though

Regards
Tony

Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.

Tony, my solution to snapping wire, Kanthal in my case, was to get some stainless steel flat washers for the screws. Works like a charm, but finding the right size is a pain. I think I got them off FleaBay from a place in England, but I'm not sure.

 

[Teach]

If you're looking for small parts try ACE Hardware - they have a section of nuts, bolts, etc. in drawers. If I remember correctly they're in a drawers marked miniature metric or something similar.

 

[awsum140]

Teach, Ace doesn't carry metric, stainless, stuff that small, at least not my local Ace anyway. Tony is in Spain so Ace isn't an option for him.

 

[tchavei]

Willy,

The first ones are the ones I use the second item you listed are similar for sure but they may be a little on the big side. They are silver plated steel which should be OK but when I was looking for them I was already paranoid about using Nickel wire and thought I would pick the least offensive metal and when I found the Sterling Silver ones I pounced on them. If it was good enough for the rich to eat off of and with that justification I figured they would be OK for vaping.

After I ordered I remember that the "Down Fall" of the Roman Empire was partially attributed to the use of lead dishes and utensils. I was able to write that off under "We can't live for ever" albeit I don't see why not.

PS - The part about the Romans has nothing to do with anything or any point I was trying to make. I have no idea why I added that.

I'm shocked. I've never seen someone use Eyelets for coils. How do you tension the wire before you crimp it in place? Do you have a pic of your build?

If this really works, you discovered the bomb. You could easily remove the coil, throw it in a bowl of hydrogen peroxide to clean it and reassemble it without risking any distortion... Wow.

Tony, my solution to snapping wire, Kanthal in my case, was to get some stainless steel flat washers for the screws. Works like a charm, but finding the right size is a pain. I think I got them off FleaBay from a place in England, but I'm not sure.

I thought of that but a washer so small is hard to find.

I even thought of welding the coil to the screw with a micro welder. That would provide the best trouble free connection. Only problem is when you want to change the coil... How to break the weld clean off?

Regards
Tony

Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.

 

[awsum140]

Tony, have a look at this, sizes down to M1 -

Flat Washers A2 Stainless FORM A - M1 M2 M2.5 M3 M4 M5 M6 M7 M8 M10 M12 M14 M16 | eBay

 

[cobalt327]

If you find yourself in central FL, make time to visit Skycraft. They carry all sorts of surplus and odd/hard to find junk and among it is bins of ultra small hardware. I picked up a lot when I was racing slots and RC.

Washers would work as good as most things but if horizontal post holes has to be used, not so much. If and when I ever use Ni200 coils I plan on using my little wire welder to add a short tail of Kanthal.

ETA, I have an Aqua v2 clone that had a bad negative post. Before getting a replacement, I had considered using a piece of brass rod through the horizontal holes, held in w/the post screw. Then I was going to weld the coil tail to the rod. Silver wire or even stainless could be used instead of brass if brass was an issue.

 

[BNEAT]

Washers would work as good as most things but if horizontal post holes has to be used, not so much. If and when I ever use Ni200 coils I plan on using my little wire welder to add a short tail of Kanthal.

Welding Kanthal legs onto your Nickel coils is bass-ackwards...wait a minute, I think I flashbacked to 2014

 

[awsum140]

I plan on welding hardened nickel onto the NI200 if needed, not Kanthal. Somehow, welding on Kanthal seems self-defeating to me.

 

[HolmanGT]

I plan on welding hardened nickel onto the NI200 if needed, not Kanthal. Somehow, welding on Kanthal seems self-defeating to me.

awsum,

Try the crimps I listed earlier in this thread. I have had great luck with them. I have a couple of Foggers that came with the spring loaded post hole things. They sent a couple of screws with them because someone new the spring loaded post holes didn't work worth a darn. Then I discovered that if you wound around the screws and tightened the sharp post (at the top) with screws would cut Ni200.

That is when I tried the sterling silver crimps. Crimp the ends of the Ni200 coil put them into the post holes and you can tighten them down until your hearts content and you will not cut the wire, the crimp or anything else for that matter.

I am sure you can use several other metal types. I started with some homemade brass crimps until I was informed that soft brass contains lead. Fortunately I never used them before Rossum warned me that the brass contains lead.

Anyway it is a very quick and simple fix. Except that it will put you back in the Vape Mail Queue but they do ship very fast.

 

[awsum140]

I had that problem with a Fogger V6 and beat it by repeatedly, deliberately, cutting the wire in the holes which were over-drilled until they no longer cut the wire off when tightened. Literally filled the holes with bits of cut wire. It took some time to do, but eliminated the problem entirely. The crimps would be a lot easier and way faster though.

 

[puffon]

3mm SS Post Washers

SHOP - FatDaddyVapes.com - Home of the best vape tweaks and replacement hardware.

A little pricey
I imagine McMaster carries them also.

 

[HolmanGT]

I had that problem with a Fogger V6 and beat it by repeatedly, deliberately, cutting the wire in the holes which were over-drilled until they no longer cut the wire off when tightened. Literally filled the holes with bits of cut wire. It took some time to do, but eliminated the problem entirely. The crimps would be a lot easier and way faster though.

awsum,

You just redefined the definition of insanity. "Try the same thing over and over expecting different results". You did the same thing over and over until the darn thing worked - "Go-Figure"

Actually I was thinking of finding some rod stock that would fit the hole in the vertical post and cut it to length effectively doing what you did fill the post until the screw and wire weren't in shear anymore but I never could find any rod that would fit except for brass and I didn't want to go there. i.e. "Lead"

 

[cindycated]

awsum,

You just redefined the definition of insanity. "Try the same thing over and over expecting different results". You did the same thing over and over until the darn thing worked - "Go-Figure"

Actually I was thinking of finding some rod stock that would fit the hole in the vertical post and cut it to length effectively doing what you did fill the post until the screw and wire weren't in shear anymore but I never could find any rod that would fit except for brass and I didn't want to go there. i.e. "Lead"

How about lead-free solder, Holman? Be tough without screwing up the threads though, huh?

 

[tchavei]

Thanks for all the input so far.

I guess I will have to get some of those eyelets . I just can't imagine how to do it physically like do you put the eyelet under the screw and then put the wire , tension it and clamp down the eyelet or do you crimp the eyelet first and mount it later on? Uh, I'm maybe over thinking this... sorry

Tony

 

[HolmanGT]

How about lead-free solder, Holman? Be tough without screwing up the threads though, huh?

cindycated,

I never gave that a thought albeit it makes perfect sense. The trouble is I am old school and have fought using unleaded solder with a passion.

But if I hadn't been so busy avoiding Lead Free Solder and given it a thought it sounds like the perfect solution. I think most lead free is mostly tin and silver (not sure) but I am reasonable sure it would be safe sitting in the juice.

And you are right on about not harming the threads and malleable enough to make it fit even if it is a tad bit over/under sized.

Leave it to a woman to tell the guys to "KISS"

 

[awsum140]

My first though was solder, but then I thought about how to keep everything hot enough to make the solder flow into that hole under the threaded hole. Just stuffing it in would work, except for the rosin core in all my silver solder so I went with the long and tedious method instead.

 

[HolmanGT]

Thanks for all the input so far.

I guess I will have to get some of those eyelets . I just can't imagine how to do it physically like do you put the eyelet under the screw and then put the wire , tension it and clamp down the eyelet or do you crimp the eyelet first and mount it later on? Uh, I'm maybe over thinking this... sorry

Tony

Tony,

I used the wrong term for them they are not eyelets they are "crimp ends". I relinked to the correct item and Willy correct me also.

Here is the link again: Crimp end, sterling silver, 3x1mm tube with loop, 0.4mm inside diameter. Sold per pkg of 50. - Fire Mountain Gems and Beads

One end is the crimp that you put the Ni200 into and crimp the other end is a ring that you pass the post screw thru and tighten. One other advantage of this method is you hold the crimp with a pair of needle nose while you tighten the screw and that way you don't distort the coil - even a little bit.

Hmmm... I actually use a single needle nose plier never tried using a pair at the same time. "Just another one of those things that make you go Hmmm..."

Why is a single needle nose plier called a pair of pliers.

 

[BNEAT]

Holman, you brain functions a little differently than everybody else.

 

[tchavei]

ok. I'm going to try it. Just need to find those crimp ends somewhere.

Thx


Tony

 

[HolmanGT]

Holman, you brain functions a little differently than everybody else.

I know... I like to blame it on the years I spent in the seventies and eighties lost in a fog that wasn't caused by PG/VG if you get my drift.