Rayon wick, better flow, flavor, saturation and Nic Hit!

[HolmanGT]

ok. I'm going to try it. Just need to find those crimp ends somewhere.

Thx


Tony

Tony,

Most craft shops carry them but I have noticed that many don't have the solid sterling silver. However it wouldn't hurt to try the silver plated for a time and that would give you a chance to see if it is something you want to pursue.

 

[Dave_in_OK]

Why is a single needle nose plier called a pair of pliers.

So you made me look that up

This is what I found from The Straight Dope: Why do we say a "pair of pants" when there's only one of them?

Cecil replies:

Fret not, my little anchovy. Ann Landers might puppy out and tell you to get professional counseling, but here at the Straight Dope, we deliver.

Now for the facts.

First of all, let's note there is a class of objects that are thought to consist of two independent but connected parts, usually identical or at least similar to each other. In addition to pants and trousers, there are eyeglasses, scissors, tweezers, shears, pliers, and so on.

The terms for these objects are always plural in form, and they are usually referred to as "a pair of ...." This usage goes back to at least 1297 AD, when we have the expression "a peire of hosen."

The implication is that the two parts are separable in some sense, and in fact a pair of hose can often mean two separate pieces. (True, you can't separate tweezers, but I never claimed the English language was rational.)

To read the rest click the link.

 

[tchavei]

so you say a pair of pliers, a pair of scissors, a pair of tweezers, a pair of balls... ups a pair of trousers, etc... really weird

 

[HolmanGT]

Dave,

Thanks for looking this up but the only part that makes sense to me is "I never claimed the English language was rational".

 

[SlickWilly]

I know... I like to blame it on the years I spent in the seventies and eighties lost in a fog that wasn't caused by PG/VG if you get my drift.

You and I are on the same wave length a lot of the time, maybe you hit the reason for the connection. You and I must be pretty close in age too.

 

[PaulBHC]

IT makes sense until a pair of briefs or panties... no legs. Pair of leg holes maybe?

 

[awsum140]

Ahhh, but there's the swim or bathing suit....singular.

 

[BNEAT]

IT makes sense until a pair of briefs or panties... no legs. Pair of leg holes maybe?

One thing is for sure, without them there would be a pair of something showing!

 

[cindycated]

cindycated,

I never gave that a thought albeit it makes perfect sense. The trouble is I am old school and have fought using unleaded solder with a passion.

But if I hadn't been so busy avoiding Lead Free Solder and given it a thought it sounds like the perfect solution. I think most lead free is mostly tin and silver (not sure) but I am reasonable sure it would be safe sitting in the juice.

And you are right on about not harming the threads and malleable enough to make it fit even if it is a tad bit over/under sized.

Leave it to a woman to tell the guys to "KISS"

Yeah, I've taught quite a few guys how to "KISS."

 

[burnie71]

Ahhh, but there's the swim or bathing suit....singular.

Sorry! pair of speedo's

On another note re: crimping a while ago (Two years) I purchased sterling silver crimps (used for spacing beads) just a tube 1mm o/s dia 1.5mm long for crimping nr to coil, have spent a good hour trying to find the buggers without luck. I am sure if these were slipped onto wire and into post hole and tightened down problem would be solved, most fancy diy beading shops will stock them sold by the gram.... just a thought

 

[3mg Meniere]

Yeah, I've taught quite a few guys how to "KISS."

She breaks all stereotypes.

 

[SlickWilly]

Guys I've been researching the DIY stirrer, couple quick questions, what size spinbar do you use for what size container your mixing in? (Have any links?) Have you thought about adding heat? There are heat small heat mats used for reptiles and very thin heater tapes that could be used. I followed the ultrasonic cleaner vs crock pot steeping thread, a very well done blind taste test was done and the results were people really could not tell the difference between speed steeping in a UC at 150° F or just heat steeping at the same 150° F. That temp seems to be the key, I think if you came close to it with the stirrer it would speed the steep time way up.

This link will show both types or reptile heaters http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_1?url=search-alias=pets&field-keywords=Reptile Heat mat

 

[tchavei]

30mm seems to work great in multiple container sizes. I use a borosilikat glass type 200ml

I also have a 20mm stir bar but it's only good for small stuff like a cup of coffee or 40ml recipients.

HolmanGT knows more about this as he has researched further than me. Last I heard, he was working on something called 'the dimension vortex' or something like that.

Regards
Tony

Ps: remember, e juice is not water. Surface tension, viscosity and inertia will reduce drastically the apparent movement. You will need to check if your stirrer is powerful enough to stir the e juice.

Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.

 

[cobalt327]

awsum,

You just redefined the definition of insanity. "Try the same thing over and over expecting different results". You did the same thing over and over until the darn thing worked - "Go-Figure"

Actually I was thinking of finding some rod stock that would fit the hole in the vertical post and cut it to length effectively doing what you did fill the post until the screw and wire weren't in shear anymore but I never could find any rod that would fit except for brass and I didn't want to go there. i.e. "Lead"

Previously posted elsewhere but may be of some use here:

On my Aqua clones (FT SKU 2022300 and Tobeco) I was having some issues w/resistance being too high for the build and occasionally cutting the coil tail when tightening it. Got to looking and besides the screw bottoms needing to be smoothed, I found out the negative post is deeply cupped- there's 1/8" of empty space below the level of the horizontal holes that the tail goes through, and this situation creates a shear that cuts Kanthal and could be instant death to annealed Ni200 builds. To remedy this I took a piece of 5/64" (`0.078") piano wire and cut a piece 1/8" long to insert into the neg. post to give the screw something to bottom out against. This works great, just be sure the ends are square to assure a good connection. Obviously piano wire comes in other diameters, and it's not the only thing that could be used.

As far as adding Kanthal to the ends of a Ni200 coil, I really don't anticipate a problem. It's not like there will be any significant increase in resistance- something on the order of 1/100 ohm and that's being generous. In practice it would be easy to add much less than half that much resistance. Then there's the option of using tempered Ni, Ag, etc.

 

[HolmanGT]

You and I are on the same wave length a lot of the time, maybe you hit the reason for the connection. You and I must be pretty close in age too.

Willy I am sure about the wave length... but I have suddenly gotten very old. I am not sure how it happened maybe the water here in Utah.

Normally I will just blurt out my age but for the last month or two I have become a little more reserved about just flaunting it out for everyone to see But it is in my profile.

The picture of me is five years old (or younger than me) but it is the last one I have that didn't age at the same rate I have.

 

[HolmanGT]

Guys I've been researching the DIY stirrer, couple quick questions, what size spinbar do you use for what size container your mixing in? (Have any links?) Have you thought about adding heat? There are heat small heat mats used for reptiles and very thin heater tapes that could be used. I followed the ultrasonic cleaner vs crock pot steeping thread, a very well done blind taste test was done and the results were people really could not tell the difference between speed steeping in a UC at 150° F or just heat steeping at the same 150° F. That temp seems to be the key, I think if you came close to it with the stirrer it would speed the steep time way up.

This link will show both types or reptile heaters Amazon.com: Reptile Heat mat: Pet Supplies

There is an outfit Digitalhomebrew Store They have a video that show all the stir bars they have tried and believe me they have tried every shape and size and came to the conclusion the 30mm X 7mm (for any size flask you want to use) is the best. They are in Australia but they also sell thru Amazon. They also sell a stir kit for $30 dollars that comes with two stir bars, motor, magnets for the plate and a speed controller. They even show you how to build it in a Tupperware box if you want.

There is another place that specialized in neodymium stir bars and they are considerably more powerful. K&J Magnetics: Stir Bars

There are plenty of stir bars on eBay just make sure you pick a USA distributor a lot of them are from china but several US sellers have them in stock here. I guess that only matters if you want the stir bars in a week or sometime mid summer.

If you decide you want to try the stir kit you will get two bars with so that takes care of that problem.

As far as the heat the stir plate will not heat the liquid at all but it is smashing molecules into each other at around a 1000 rpms or more if you want. I watched a video that Tony did when he dropped in the flavoring it was totally mixed in milliseconds and I am not exaggerating. So I guess you can warm it for steeping but I have found if you let it run overnight it is about as steeped as it is ever going to get. Caveat - when steeping burp the bottle a couple of time but generally leave the cover on you don't want to originate the e-juice you just want to agitate and release the gasses that are in the liquid. If you stir with no lid you will oxidize your nicotine something that will reduce its potency. If run for a long time. With the lid on you could let it run for days with no harm to the juice or nicotine. Albeit after about 12 hours it is steeped and any gasses that may be in the juice will be contained in the upper empty part of the flask and released when you burp it.

PS - Chat with the Australians they have a money back guarantee no questions asked. but thirty bucks with two stir bars is pretty hard to beat. Two stir bars will cost you $10 buck if you by them alone.
PS2 - This is the same method that some pre-steeped juice vendors use.

 

[cobalt327]

Skinning a cat differently, not stealing anyone's thunder. FWIW if I didn't have this already I might have cobbled up a mag stirrer. But I'm not looking to add any projects just now- it took 2 weeks to find the time to throw my wire welder together.

So far I've done 3 flavors, 2 DIY and NT's ACB. About 120 rpm gives good results but really anywhere between 50 and 200 rpm (the fastest I went), works. I preheat the 1/2 full open container of juice in the microwave to 120 degrees F then cap it. This prevents pressure build up from the heat source- which is nothing more than a light bulb in a clamp-on fixture w/an aluminum shade. I check the progress every few hours by uncapping, refresh the air, recap and shake a bit then uncap to take a whiff. The first few times it will smell strong, becoming less so as it steeps. And the aroma changes. Impossible to explain exactly how it changes other than to say it gets smoother, less "sharp" for lack of a better term. Once it quits changing, it's done. The longest was the ACB at a full 24 hours. The DIY pineapple/tobacco and an RY4 both took about half as long.

This was during proof of concept, I use containers at least twice the volume of the juice I'm steeping. Thought about adding ceramic media or even stir bars inside the containers (these are often used when ball milling dry compounds) but see no need at this point. Some max VG juice would take quite a while if not for being thinned by warming- which is something I would think a necessity for a mag stirrer.

 

[SlickWilly]

holman, colbalt,

Thanks guys, some good info! I reload all my ammo and I have three ways to clean my fired brass, I have a couple vibrating tumblers, a heated Ultrasonic Cleaner and one of the double rotary tumblers so I have some options on things to try. I already all the stuff to make the DIY stirrer except for the stirbar and something to put the juice in, I was thinking of just using a glass measuring cup to start with but not sure the shape will lend well to the stirring action. I have a box full of cell phone charges and other power adapters, I never throw them away because I love to tinker. I've always have built my desktop computers from scratch and upgrade them every so often, I keep all the dead and surplus parts so I have lots of dead hard drives I salvaged magnets and motors from and lots of those big power supply fans and the smaller case cooling fans. I looked through the case cooling fans and found a couple that have a speed control built in, perfect! I'll order that stirbar holman suggested today.

I have tried the UC and that works well and it's fast, a three hour run at 150° F will steep my RY4 pretty well, it will get a tad better after a couple weeks of setting but not a lot. The problem with the UC is it has a eight min max timer so I can't set it and forget it and there is the mess of the water so I do it in the kitchen next to the sink. I like the idea of the stirrer where I could set it in my office or on my bench and leave it alone for a couple hours. I'm going to try the rotary too, why not, I already have it setting here.

Thanks guys!

 

[SlickWilly]

Well for less then $18 shipped I got two of the stirbars and six beakers of different sizes 5, 10, 25, 50, 100 & 250ml. Not bad!

SEOH PTFE Stirrer Bar, Plain 30 x 7mm: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AU6Y6C2

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AU6Y6X6

 

[HolmanGT]

Cobalt,

That is very cool design.

While tinkering with my Mag stirrer I thought about and tried attaching the bottle to the mag stirrer. I tried the stirrer in a horizontal position and the bottle attached vertically and rotating it modestly slow so that the liquid would slosh from one end of the bottle to the other. It sort of worked but the g forces were enough that the system vibration (pounding) was a little to intense for me.

Then I tried the bottle half full and mounted horizontally like yours only with a stir bar in the bottle and up against the horizontal stir plate. Now you have to invasion a normal stir plate and bottle mounted horizontally. Then see the stir bar in the bottle pulled to the end closest to the stir plate. Half he stir bar in the empty portion of the bottle and the other half of the stir bar in the juice.

Then I started the stir plate rotating with out getting too involved in verbal pictures just imaging a boat propeller half in the water and half out. In this configuration with room temperature juice at about 1000 rpms it almost immediately turned the juice in the bottle milky white with micro bubbles and little or no vibration. I was also able to observe the bubbles being pumped from the stir plate end to the bottle cap end and back so nothing was lying stagnate.

Then I took the entire rig and placed it back in a vertical (normal) position. In this position it will never generate the micro bubbles but with the bottle already full of micro bubbles I was able to observe the bubbles swirling like a banshee and being pumped from bottom to top and back again. I mention this because if you set a bottle of juice that has no bubbles you can not see any apparent movement of the liquid and with a 50/50 mix I have not been able to generate a Vortex in a 120 ml bottle. In a half full 120 ml bottle I am able to generate a quarter to three eights in dimple vortex. still with no apparent movement of the liquid when the liquid is clear. Shake the bottle for a few seconds to add some bubbles and under the same condition you can observe complete agitation from top to bottom with a full or half full bottle. (this was all done at room temperature and for me that is about 72-73 F)

So Mr. Cobalt I am now torn between your horizon scheme (in my case with the mag stir) or just vertical like a normal stir plate. My subjective opinion is the horizontal half full bottle generates a much more violent stirring action but more difficult to build. The vertical (normal) build seems to do the job just fine but without the eye-candy (micro bubbles).

Your tumbler method looks like something I would like to try. I am at the moment playing with an AC motor like yours but here is my problem with this whole "Build Process" I don't have the rollers you used and half of the stuff I am using is metric and the other half is American Standard sizes. Which make building anything like this a real PITA. Also I am having a hard time knowing that Tony is laughing his .... off because in Portugal he has the good fortune of everything being Metric (a fact he has never failed to remind me of). Also his is finished, working and has been for a couple of weeks and he is able to pull a fair size Vortex in 50/50 juice at room temperature. We both started at the same time and I haven't even received my 60/40 solder yet - Ugh!