Rayon wick, better flow, flavor, saturation and Nic Hit!
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Hey aal, long time... Hope your doing well and your country has a victory.
I think its probably just the flavor, you haven't had it in two years, maybe you taste the vinegar they put in there?
The two flavors you mentioned are some of the strongest & most complex I believe.
Taste buds really define when you vape strictly unflavored for a while..
If you vape a lot of heavy flavors your taste buds get burned out in my opinion.
Bitter is one I've never heard...
I've heard sweeter, which is possible because its more efficient at vaporizing and more sugar will be vaporized, which just means you need less sweetening on rayon.
Vinegar? I would never go there.. Yuk
I have one thought, on a limb... rayon doesn't absorb and transports fast... watery liquid wicks faster than vg maybe it's possible under heat that the water and/or vinegar components get pulled out of solution and wick to the coil ahead of the vg with the other flavoing components.
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Hey Jeremy. Good to talk to u again
.Was off the grid for a while due to work and family visits.
Your theory about transporting vinegar and water faster might be a reason, but Boba's bounty is supposed to be 100% vg, not sure if the water or vinegar account for anything.
Sweeter on unflavored is why I love rayon
. I love the sweet taste of VG .I think my taste buds grew out of it. Not sure if i should train them again or keep it clean. But I do miss how I used to enjoy some flavors.
Yeah good to see ya!
A Google search turns up many claims that vinegar is the secret ingredient, many say up to 6% .
Search - bobas bounty vinegar
a lot of links on the net talking about it.
A Google search turns up many claims that vinegar is the secret ingredient, many say up to 6% .
Search - bobas bounty vinegar
a lot of links on the net talking about it.
There is much evidence that rayon fiber has antibacterial properties. Based from its natural properties.
Literally my coil at 200-300ml looks no different than it did with cotton at 20-30ml with the same juice.
Thats why I don't have to bother unless there's a problem.
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I agree. I can vape 4ml of a NET and cotton is almost done, I just vaped 60+ml of hangsen and 12ml of NET and was still getting a great vape on one wick. Needed to rebuild with SS since I'm changing everything over and my wick was fine...I thought surely it would be trashed but it was still in great shape.
I'm going to vape 20ml of NET and see what it looks like. I'm hoping the combination of TC, SS, and rayon I can get through 30ml of NET without any flavor change.
I will say Porch Rocker @ 420F is an amazing vape, I'm really enjoying it with temperature control. Tobaccos seem to really benefit from controlled temperature, none of that burnt taste from accidentally overheating from a long pull. I can't believe I put off using TC for so long.
I will say Porch Rocker @ 420F is an amazing vape, I'm really enjoying it with temperature control. Tobaccos seem to really benefit from controlled temperature, none of that burnt taste from accidentally overheating from a long pull. I can't believe I put off using TC for so long.
I'll need to get some stainless.. Hope its better than ti..
I really seem to miss the pop from kanthal, ti seems a little weak to me, or its just the temp control in general. No matter how I adjust it ti seems weak. Either somewhat weak or burny no sweet spot found.. I'm not talking just the noise, flavor, vapor, th..
Not to mention the weakness of the wire, too many times a wrap gets haywire and misses good contact with the wick during use. Thus restricting the amount of power because the loose wrap will overheat first.
Being I vaped at high temp with kanthal this just isn't quite the same.. I never had a long hit problem, only running tanks dry or subzero temps.. If there was juice it wicked it.
And you know what.... I think my coils looked just as good if not better at 200ml with kanthal at high wattage than they have with ti and tc. (For me)
The nice thing with Tc is it stops coils from going thermal. But the way I have to set it, it still will dry hit a little when it goes dry, better than screwing up and going full on coil dry burn for sure..
Weak wire & poor contact reduces efficiency greatly. I see more specs popping off in the chamber with ti in general. Which means its actually created more levels of gunk on the coil during certain times. For me at least.
Hopefully stainless is a little more hardy enabling a true even contact with the wick. ..
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I really seem to miss the pop from kanthal, ti seems a little weak to me, or its just the temp control in general. No matter how I adjust it ti seems weak. Either somewhat weak or burny no sweet spot found.. I'm not talking just the noise, flavor, vapor, th..
Not to mention the weakness of the wire, too many times a wrap gets haywire and misses good contact with the wick during use. Thus restricting the amount of power because the loose wrap will overheat first.
Being I vaped at high temp with kanthal this just isn't quite the same.. I never had a long hit problem, only running tanks dry or subzero temps.. If there was juice it wicked it.
And you know what.... I think my coils looked just as good if not better at 200ml with kanthal at high wattage than they have with ti and tc. (For me)
The nice thing with Tc is it stops coils from going thermal. But the way I have to set it, it still will dry hit a little when it goes dry, better than screwing up and going full on coil dry burn for sure..
Weak wire & poor contact reduces efficiency greatly. I see more specs popping off in the chamber with ti in general. Which means its actually created more levels of gunk on the coil during certain times. For me at least.
Hopefully stainless is a little more hardy enabling a true even contact with the wick. ..
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I'm getting that familiar popping with this single wire build, 8 wraps of even spaced 28g SS430..2.4mm @ 0.73 ohms.
21.5W @ 420F, not a real warm vape but it fits this particular NET nicely.
21.5W @ 420F, not a real warm vape but it fits this particular NET nicely.
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That's about the same coil I have of ti right now.. If I had to choose metal for anything stainless would be my first choice...
Yep those nets need lower temps otherwise they start to burn up causing gunk.
Another thing I don't like about weak wire is say you take the cap off your dripper and bump the coil.. Its no longer even, poor contact on wick.
Yep those nets need lower temps otherwise they start to burn up causing gunk.
Another thing I don't like about weak wire is say you take the cap off your dripper and bump the coil.. Its no longer even, poor contact on wick.
You guys are tempting me to get into TC. Where is a good place to start? I know nothing about the coil material for TC. Is it Nickel, Stainless; Uranium perhaps? - allergic to that one.
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Cotton is like a sponge rayon isn't. Think of a dish sponge and a dish brush.. Sponge will get nasty mildew brush won't.
Most of the fluid actually sticks/clings/rides on the outside of the rayon fibers.. Not inside them like cotton.
Heres an example you can see the droplets..
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Hmmmm... so stainless is a viable option for TC? I have nickel, but that isn't working for my build style in the atty that I want to temp control. I've been debating on getting Ti, but now everyone is talking about SS... am I correct in assuming that SS will work for TC in my Invader Mini? Which if I remember correctly is a ChiNA40 board that's modified to go to 50W, or something like that... and if SS does work for TC in it, roughly how far off is the temp setting from actual?
I'm the same way. I got full on lucky with timing. First I win a mod with adjustable TCR, Unkamen gets SS430 in a preferred gauge and has it on sale 200FT for $5.
I would vape Ti but not Ni200, I just got lucky and SS was available for cheap and works with my mod.
Stainless is nice, it heats up fast as kanthal but cools quicker. This is preferable to me. I'm hearing better wick longevity with SS over other TC wires, I will believe that when I experience it for myself.
Twisted performs better than single in a dripper especially, I ran twisted 32g kanthal for all my builds for the past 1.5+ years and stainless 28g twisted is even better.
Unless something bad comes up about it I believe within the next 6 months we will see a major shift to stainless steel by both manufactures and rebuilders alike.
I believe it will work in Ti mode with an offset of close to 80F, don't quote me on that though. I know it works on the DNA200 when using a Ti profile.
@USMCotaku can you chime in on SS430 and the Invader Mini?
Yeah, stainless is the best metal for anything imo.
Only reason it wasn't a first choice is a few years ago we couldn't handle the low ohms.. Kanthal was the ticket..Things have progressed greatly.
I can't see how it could possibly be any worse than what we have now!
Only reason it wasn't a first choice is a few years ago we couldn't handle the low ohms.. Kanthal was the ticket..Things have progressed greatly.
I can't see how it could possibly be any worse than what we have now!
Hmmmmmm... unfortunately it doesn't have 'modes' like the VT does. I think it was just programmed for Ni200... but maybe someone knows something that I don't... (ENTIRELY possible!!
With 28g 430 it isn't hard to get a nice higher ohm load, 8 wraps around 3mm will be about 0.89 ohms. I'm really surprised it hasn't been used sooner.
And if you lightly anneal it (I use a grill lighter) before wrapping it is not springy at all.
I believe it is safer than kanthal but this is just based on personal opinion, I haven't delved deeply into it.
I agree... on many levels! Stainless steels (of the many versions available today) are perhaps the best choice of material for many, many applications. It's durable, strong, and resistant to most things (chemicals/temperatures/humidity/etc). As far as coils go, it's pretty much perfect and I would expect longer lasting than most other coil materials... I'm lucky if I get 2-3 weeks out of my coils, and I've been using NiChrome80 for quite a while now... forget Kanthal... I'd get a week and a half if I got lucky...
Hmmmmmm... unfortunately it doesn't have 'modes' like the VT does. I think it was just programmed for Ni200... but maybe someone knows something that I don't... (ENTIRELY possible!!
I don't think it would work with Ni200 TCR. It works just as good in wattage mode and I believe Unkamen still has it for $5 so you have nothing to lose if you still use kanthal as well.
I see you use Ni80, I would give it a go if you're in the US.
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