Rayon wick, better flow, flavor, saturation and Nic Hit!

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Kaezziel

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The tesla is only putting out ~ 10w on average with a 1.5 ohm load. Maybe a little more with a fully charged battery. (Unless there's a new dna based one out now) You definitely need more power. More air more power needed.

So, even with it set at 15W it's only actually putting out around 10? That sucks... Doesn't give me much hope for when the Orchid comes in... I was intending on running it on the Tesla :(
I don't think it'll even fire much below 1.5 ohms... can't remember what the lowest resistance it'll fire at... I may end up retiring the old girl after all...

Thanks for the input, Jeremy... you are awesome, dude!
 

aznnp77

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I just wanted to chime in. To me, cotton and rayon both work great. I'm not getting outstanding life out of the rayon wicks or anything. I think they last just as long as cotton, but IMO the rayon is much easier to work with. It's predictable when pulling it apart and stays in one piece.

I've been using the same 1ft of rayon for the past month rebuilding my protank single coils. On my primary tank I'm rewicking/recoiling about every 3-4 days. On my secondaries, I usually rebuild them every week or so, but that's only a tank or two of juice tops. The difference between the stock silica and cotton/rayon is very noticeable, and I don't plan on using a silica wick ever again.

I'm getting better at priming the wick. I put several drops on the primary wick and flavor wick. Then take several primer hits before i fire the botton on low voltages. I find that if I'm able to leave the wick alone overnight though, the performance the next morning is much better. All trial and error.
 

Kaezziel

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More power, scotty!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I figured as much... just got too excited and had to test fire the new atty... but, like I said, it kinda killed all of my hope that the Orchid will work well on the Tesla... looks like it's either gonna go on a mech, or I'm gonna have to look at the IVP 2 or something with a bit more power...

and here I was thinking that my spending spree was over..... :facepalm:
 

JeremyR

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So, even with it set at 15W it's only actually putting out around 10? That sucks... Doesn't give me much hope for when the Orchid comes in... I was intending on running it on the Tesla :(
I don't think it'll even fire much below 1.5 ohms... can't remember what the lowest resistance it'll fire at... I may end up retiring the old girl after all...

Thanks for the input, Jeremy... you are awesome, dude!

Just checked latest version. They claim 3 amps but that's only with a fully charged battery and fades quickly. So maybe 13w for a little bit.. Zmax can actually do 3 with a single battery too, but only at 4.2v battery. Then it quickly fades... at 3.8v battery you'll be at 10w. A 2.0 ohm coil will be able to do 15w for most of the charge; but really if you want 15w through the charge you'd want to be at 2.3-2.4 with it.

Sigelie Zmax v3/v5 can do over 4 amps with stacked 18350's.. & 20-24w It's my all day carry, one set of stacked 18350 lasts me ALL day.. 1.3-1.5 ohms at 6v for 20-24w... And I mean 24 hours on one set with no noticeable drop In Power till the last .2 v.
 
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JeremyR

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I just wanted to chime in. To me, cotton and rayon both work great. I'm not getting outstanding life out of the rayon wicks or anything. I think they last just as long as cotton, but IMO the rayon is much easier to work with. It's predictable when pulling it apart and stays in one piece.

I've been using the same 1ft of rayon for the past month rebuilding my protank single coils. On my primary tank I'm rewicking/recoiling about every 3-4 days. On my secondaries, I usually rebuild them every week or so, but that's only a tank or two of juice tops. The difference between the stock silica and cotton/rayon is very noticeable, and I don't plan on using a silica wick ever again.

I'm getting better at priming the wick. I put several drops on the primary wick and flavor wick. Then take several primer hits before i fire the botton on low voltages. I find that if I'm able to leave the wick alone overnight though, the performance the next morning is much better. All trial and error.

Flavor wick is killing it man. Not needed with rayon at all. Rayon will last you at least 4 times longer than cotton if you get the density right and ditch the flavor wicks. I do have one running for my wife - it just keeps going and going.
 

Kaezziel

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Just checked latest version. They claim 3 amps but that's only with a fully charged battery and fades quickly. So maybe 13w for a little bit.. Zmax can actually do 3 with a single battery too, but only at 4.2v battery. Then it quickly fades... at 3.8v battery you'll be at 10w. A 2.0 ohm coil will be able to do 15w for most of the charge; but really if you want 15w through the charge you'd want to be at 2.3-2.4 with it.

Sigelie Zmax v3/v5 can do over 4 amps with stacked 18350's.. & 20-24w It's my all day carry, one set of stacked 18350 lasts me ALL day.. 1.3-1.5 ohms at 6v for 20-24w... And I mean 24 hours on one set with no noticeable drop In Power till the last .2 v.

Hmmm.... maybe I'll try either increasing the ID of the coils or adding more wraps...
Probably easier to increase the ID...
I tried a single coil at 2.2 ohms and didn't really care for that either.....

On a side note, I rinsed it under the sink faucet after wicking to rinse out a new juice that I didn't like and was surprised at how quickly the rayon dried back out... I'd have had to let that thing sit for 2 days with cotton!!
 

JeremyR

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Kaezziel, I dig you signature line... I fall in that category, and yes in the long run it's not. But boy the guys at work were pretty salty for a while when the new guy stepped in and blew em away.

At any rate you'll probably find you need even more power than 15. Yeah it drys super quick you can just lay a paper towel against it, or even pulse dry it and you can see it drying out. Stop before completely dry of course. Lol
 
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cindycated

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Flavor wick is killing it man. Not needed with rayon at all. Rayon will last you at least 4 times longer than cotton if you get the density right and ditch the flavor wicks. I do have one running for my wife - it just keeps going and going.
Look at the diameter and height of the coil too - if it's the same width as the juice channels, and lined up with the bottom edge of the juice channels (both optimal IMO), then you'd automatically get the right size rayon puff without needing the flavor wick, it would be at the perfect height, and everything would be beautiful. But if you're wrapping them narrower than the juice channels and/or setting the coil too low into the deck, then the sucker would leak and flood all over the place, and performance would be lackluster. I was getting 4 times longer too, compared to yarn.

When I first started rebuilding Kanger heads, I looked around the house for something that would fit perfectly in those channels. Ended up with one of these for my mandrel:
images

I think it's about 1/16"D.
When I position my coil, I leave the coil on the mandrel, straddle the mandrel over the juice channels, lightly tug at the legs, and I don't remove the mandrel until I've got the legs all tightened up and trimmed. Then I carefully slide out my mandrel, give it a test fire, and thread my wick through. No flavor wicks needed, because the puffy ends perfectly block the channels without being too loose or too tight.
 
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awsum140

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Kaezziel, I want to suggest you try a 2.4 ohm, 32 gauge coil with NR leads welded on. Wrap it on a 14 gauge needle, .083 inch, 2.108mm. Wick it so the cellulose "squeaks", no flavor wick.

I've got 35ml of El Toro Cigarillos through an original Protank built that way and the vapor and flavor are still amazing! I think I'll run out of CIgarillos before I need to rewick it again.
 

Kaezziel

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Kaezziel, I dig you signature line... I fall in that category, and yes in the long run it's not. But boy the guys at work were pretty salty for a while when the new guy stepped in and blew em away.

At any rate you'll probably find you need even more power than 15. Yeah it drys super quick you can just lay a paper towel against it, or even pulse dry it and you can see it drying out. Stop before completely dry of course. Lol

Thanks, Jeremy... I came across that quote somewhere and it just fit.... I've held onto it ever since... you're absolutely right... sometimes it definitely takes the long run for everything to pan out!

Yeah, I'll see how things work out once the Orchid shows up... prolly end up getting another VV-VW mod with a little more power for it.
That's what I did... dabbed it with a paper towel, then pulsed it about 3 times and it was ready to be juiced again... this stuff never ceases to amaze me!!
 

Kaezziel

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Kaezziel, I want to suggest you try a 2.4 ohm, 32 gauge coil with NR leads welded on. Wrap it on a 14 gauge needle, .083 inch, 2.108mm. Wick it so the cellulose "squeaks", no flavor wick.

I've got 35ml of El Toro Cigarillos through an original Protank built that way and the vapor and flavor are still amazing! I think I'll run out of CIgarillos before I need to rewick it again.

That sounds pretty good, Awsum!!
Now... if only I had a way to weld NR leads onto Kanthal....

You guys are killin' me... I'm never gonna be able to stop buyin' stuff, am I?
I'm still working on saving up for a lathe.... I'm dying to build my own mech mod from scratch...
 

Kaezziel

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LOL... I'm not kidding, Burnie...
I've spent over $400 on various vape related gear in the past week and a half... and every time I turn around I see or think about or hear about something else that I NEED to acquire!! :D

Still need to pick up a Hybris at some point, too... that just might replace my eGo that I keep around to take hunting with me.... and hunting season is coming up fast!
 

Kaezziel

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Kaezziel, the spending spree NEVER ends! All it take to weld NR wire is a capacitive discharge welder, really cheap if you DIY one. I've found higher voltage and lower capacitance gives better welds.

That would take a bit of research... I've never been much of a welder, but I can definitely see the benefits of being able to weld on NR legs...
:facepalm: I'll look into it to see what all I need to make one... shouldn't be too difficult, I mean, we're not talking about welding 1/2" plate steel here....
 

Kaezziel

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Kaezziel, you might want to consider a milling machine rather than a lathe though, or maybe in addition to it.

$400 bucks, heck, I've spent that in co-ops so far this year and that doesn't count all the other vape related toys. This is some "hobby"!

Yeah, I've been going back and forth on whether to just get a mill or both... I mean, I could probably do with just the mill if I found the right one for the right price..
I was looking at mini lathes cause I figured that would be plenty big enough, and they are fairly cheap... I could save money by skipping the mill and just doing that work by hand with a dremel and a good file set...
Ughh... pipe dreams... I'll get to it some day... medical bills have been eatin' me up lately, so maybe in a year or so I can get a decent mill....
 

HolmanGT

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That sounds pretty good, Awsum!!
Now... if only I had a way to weld NR leads onto Kanthal....

You guys are killin' me... I'm never gonna be able to stop buyin' stuff, am I?
I'm still working on saving up for a lathe.... I'm dying to build my own mech mod from scratch...

You don't need to buy a welder you can buy them ready made for cheap here:

Rebuildable Atomizer (RA) Accessories

http://stormysvaporcellar.com/oc_1/index.php?route=product/product&path=98_68&product_id=805

or here:

Wire & Wick - DIY Parts

They come in packs of 50 each @ 0.20 cents per wire.
 
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