Rayon wick, better flow, flavor, saturation and Nic Hit!

[tchavei]

Over 250ml is pretty dam good!!

Anxiously awaiting pics!!

Mine is getting redone in the next couple days too.

Thank you. The important part however is that I'm rebuilding because I want, not because I need to. I believe that unless you dry hit severely or use e-liquids that tend to gunk the coil, you could use the same wick indefinitely or at least for a very very long time. I don't know any disposable atty that you can buy and use daily for two months without the need of even wiping or cleaning and those use silica which should last longer than rayon (but don't actually as they appear to loose capillary action over time).

Regards
Tony

Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.

 

[tchavei]

Hi again.

Time to show some pics.

Right after being opened and after letting all live things crawl out (joking) :

I'm not sure those black dots are from the gunked coil or things that found their way in through the drip tip... 45 days is a long time and things happen especially when carrying a mod 18/7

After putting the atty under running water for a few seconds:

No burn marks and this with a full contact coil and no temperature protection.

Time for some cleaning:

Building a 10 wraps, 28g tempered ni200 spaced coil on a 2.5mm mandrel (0.11 Ohms):

Wicking with rayon of course:

Set temperature to 400F and done:

What an adventure!

272ml of juice went through this build.

Regards
Tony

Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.

 

[slavkov]

Would appreciate some advice

Tried the rayon a few months ago, but for some reason went back to Japanese cotton.

 

[tchavei]

Would appreciate some advice

Tried the rayon a few months ago, but for some reason went back to Japanese cotton.

If that's rayon, I would thin out those ends.

What issues did you have when you tried it?

Regards
Tony

Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.

 

[slavkov]

If that's rayon, I would thin out those ends.

What issues did you have when you tried it?

Regards
Tony

Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.

Technically it's not rayon but it's 100% viscose.

Don't have any issues just looking for opinion

 

[tchavei]

Technically it's rayon I think

I did hear that those from Germany had some aftertaste while the Graham stuff didn't.

Never tried viscose cotton myself. Have to get some.

I would still thin out the tails a bit... Tree roots like

Regards
Tony

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[JeremyR]

Technically it's not rayon but it's 100% viscose.

Don't have any issues just looking for opinion

Not sure of what issues you might be having.. Density looks good so far..

I would cut half the tails out. Full wick should be just shy of touching the chamber walls. With the half to 1/4 tail dropping to the deck below without blocking the holes... Unless its working good for you now.

Viscose is rayon. So yes same thing just the European name for it.

 

[JeremyR]

Hi again.

Time to show some pics.

Right after being opened and after letting all live things crawl out (joking) :

I'm not sure those black dots are from the gunked coil or things that found their way in through the drip tip... 45 days is a long time and things happen especially when carrying a mod 18/7

After putting the atty under running water for a few seconds:

No burn marks and this with a full contact coil and no temperature protection.

Time for some cleaning:

Building a 10 wraps, 28g tempered ni200 spaced coil on a 2.5mm mandrel (0.11 Ohms):

Wicking with rayon of course:

Set temperature to 400F and done:

What an adventure!

272ml of juice went through this build.

Regards
Tony

Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.

First off it looks great for 275ml!!

The black specs are normal for that long.. Anytime you inadvertantly dry hit it and a small amount of gunk formed. (Gunk is from a dry coil) ... Then as its Resaturated it blasts the unstuck gunking off the coil. Gunk really never sticks if any develops.

I've seen this from the beginning. And its part of the way running rayon makes for a self cleaning coil as well as a coil that doesn't gunk when juice is consistently available, but if flow slows and the coil gets dryer some layer may start to form until juice is restored then the carbon just ejects itself from the coil.

And the black specs in the camber don't seem to affect anything at all, not wicking or flavor, just looks peppered.

Was that a contact coil too, looks pretty tight... If it was fully spaced you wouldn't even have that little spot developing in the middle after 200ml.

The ni build looks really nice.

 

[tchavei]

First off it looks great for 275ml!!

The black specs are normal for that long.. Anytime you inadvertantly dry hit it and a small amount of gunk formed. (Gunk is from a dry coil) ... Then as its Resaturated it blasts the unstuck gunking off the coil. Gunk really never sticks if any develops.

I've seen this from the beginning. And its part of the way running rayon makes for a self cleaning coil as well as a coil that doesn't gunk when juice is consistently available, but if flow slows and the coil gets dryer some layer may start to form until juice is restored then the carbon just ejects itself from the coil

Was that a contact coil too, looks pretty tight... If it was fully spaced you wouldn't even have that little spot developing in the middle after 200ml.

The ni build looks really nice.

Thanks for the comments. Yes it was a full contact coil (29g kanthal). I never expected waiting so long to think in longevity. I just slapped the build together. It should have lasted 2 weeks, not one and half months

I didn't knew that about those dots and you're right, I did have a few dry hits when I forgot to fill up my atty. The worst was when I was in Spain, 300km away from home and somehow my mod unlocked the settings in my pocket and creeped up the wattage to 30W so when I took the next draw.... Holy moly...

And yet after vaping for 5 minutes the awful taste went away and all was good. Had I've been home, I would have immediately rebuilt it. Sometimes you need to be in certain situations to discover new things

Regards
Tony

Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.

 

[BigLungs]

And yet after vaping for 5 minutes the awful taste went away and all was good. Had I've been home, I would have immediately rebuilt it. Sometimes you need to be in certain situations to discover new things

Regards
Tony

Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.

Ive found with rayon that unless you really burn the wick, the pure flavor almost always comes back in short order.

Most of the time when I think I might have burnt a wick it still looks brand new when I pull it out. It really takes the nastiest of burnt hits to affect rayon IMO.
When it's set up properly, that is.

 

[HolmanGT]

Thanks for the comments. Yes it was a full contact coil (29g kanthal). I never expected waiting so long to think in longevity. I just slapped the build together. It should have lasted 2 weeks, not one and half months

I didn't knew that about those dots and you're right, I did have a few dry hits when I forgot to fill up my atty. The worst was when I was in Spain, 300km away from home and somehow my mod unlocked the settings in my pocket and creeped up the wattage to 30W so when I took the next draw.... Holy moly...

And yet after vaping for 5 minutes the awful taste went away and all was good. Had I've been home, I would have immediately rebuilt it. Sometimes you need to be in certain situations to discover new things

Regards
Tony

Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.

Tony,

First that coil/wick looks great before the bath. I would have given it the tap water bath and maybe brushed the coil a little and kept going. Not for a record or anything but, for me, the tap water and a little brushing it would be good to go another round.

I have pulled the wicks on coils that looked like yours and they usually look just fine. They don't look perfectly clean under the coil but they don't look any worse than a wick that has had five ml thru it.

The black specks I get those also and have assumed that is from the juice popping now and then. Actually I get them up the chimney and occasionally one will find it way right up the stack onto the tip of my tongue a little hot and definitely startling. However I don't try to stop the popping and have convinced myself it is juice trapped under the gunk exploding and are you ready for this... blowing the gunk off the coil i.e. the self cleaning coil.

I noticed on yours that there was a little build up more toward the center of the coil mine does that also and that is the stuff I brush off (little brush that comes with an electric razor or hair clippers) and go my merry way. Call me lazy.

 

[tchavei]

Tony,

First that coil/wick looks great before the bath. I would have given it the tap water bath and maybe brushed the coil a little and kept going. Not for a record or anything but, for me, the tap water and a little brushing it would be good to go another round.

I have pulled the wicks on coils that looked like yours and they usually look just fine. They don't look perfectly clean under the coil but they don't look any worse than a wick that has had five ml thru it.

The black specks I get those also and have assumed that is from the juice popping now and then. Actually I get them up the chimney and occasionally one will find it way right up the stack onto the tip of my tongue a little hot and definitely startling. However I don't try to stop the popping and have convinced myself it is juice trapped under the gunk exploding and are you ready for this... blowing the gunk off the coil i.e. the self cleaning coil.

I noticed on yours that there was a little build up more toward the center of the coil mine does that also and that is the stuff I brush off (little brush that comes with an electric razor or hair clippers) and go my merry way. Call me lazy.

You're not using twisted coils are you? I only get popping (sometimes violent) when using twisted coils. With single ones (kanthal) sometimes, with thin parallel (kanthal 32), never.

My ni 200 coils never pop though.

Regards
Tony

Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.

 

[HolmanGT]

You're not using twisted coils are you? I only get popping (sometimes violent) when using twisted coils. With single ones (kanthal) sometimes, with thin parallel (kanthal 32), never.

My ni 200 coils never pop though.

Regards
Tony

Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.

Well with Kanthal I would get the sizzling sound and once in a blue moon a pop but with Ni200 I get pops regularly and guaranteed after the device has been sitting for 10 or 15 minutes.

I run the TP limit at 450 and shoot for a wick coil combination that will under a normal draw idle around 400 to 420. The reason I set the TP at 400 F is it seems to increase the level of the boost power so I get to my coil temp of 400+ (F) faster.. Actually I have been know to increase it to 500 F knowing that it is not going to go above the 400+ mark on its own (which I check fairly often). Thank God the flask screen it on the top can you imagine driving down the highway at 65 mph holding the mod in one hand and a mirror in the other.

Edit: No twisted wire. Mostly 28 and sometime when I feel like it I try 30 but 30 Ga gives me so much trouble I try to avoid it.

 

[tchavei]

I was thinking ordering tempered 30 next. Is that one giving you trouble?

I think my latest build is too low (0.11 Ohms) but I can't fit more than 10 spaced wraps on my erlp deck.

One thing that bugs me with tempered 28g is that even tough I tighten down the screws hard and double wrap the leg around it, sometimes the wire isn't 100% secure... Then I tighten it down even harder and the wire snaps... I wish there was some simple technique to hold ni wire easily in place.


And a left hand screw to help... Hard to find though

Regards
Tony

Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.

 

[HolmanGT]

I was thinking ordering tempered 30 next. Is that one giving you trouble?

I think my latest build is too low (0.11 Ohms) but I can't fit more than 10 spaced wraps on my erlp deck.

One thing that bugs me with tempered 28g is that even tough I tighten down the screws hard and double wrap the leg around it, sometimes the wire isn't 100% secure... Then I tighten it down even harder and the wire snaps... I wish there was some simple technique to hold ni wire easily in place.


And a left hand screw to help... Hard to find though

Regards
Tony

Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.

No the tempered 30 Ga is like working with Kanthal (so is the 28 for that matter only with the 28 tempered Ni it seems a little harder than Kanthal).

If I am using post holes that cut the wire I use Sterling Silver 1 mm crimps If I am use screws to terminate Ni and it is cutting the wire I use Sterling Silver crimp eyelets.

I get them from this place but I am sure they can be had at any good Crafts Store: Wholesale Beads and Jewelry Making Supplies - Fire Mountain Gems and Beads

 

[tchavei]

No the tempered 30 Ga is like working with Kanthal (so is the 28 for that matter only with the 28 tempered Ni it seems a little harder than Kanthal).

If I am using post holes that cut the wire I use Sterling Silver 1 mm crimps If I am use screws to terminate Ni and it is cutting the wire I use Sterling Silver crimp eyelets.

I get them from this place but I am sure they can be had at any good Crafts Store: Wholesale Beads and Jewelry Making Supplies - Fire Mountain Gems and Beads

I'm trying to follow you. I think I understand the use of a crimp in a post hole to make the wire thicker and easier to tighten down but I don't see how you use an eyelet to secure the wire to a screw. You are referring to those tube Eyelets right?

I'm intrigued

Regards
Tony

Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.

 

[SlickWilly]

No the tempered 30 Ga is like working with Kanthal (so is the 28 for that matter only with the 28 tempered Ni it seems a little harder than Kanthal).

If I am using post holes that cut the wire I use Sterling Silver 1 mm crimps If I am use screws to terminate Ni and it is cutting the wire I use Sterling Silver crimp eyelets.

I get them from this place but I am sure they can be had at any good Crafts Store: Wholesale Beads and Jewelry Making Supplies - Fire Mountain Gems and Beads

Holman, that's brilliant!
Are they like this assortment? --> Eyelet mix, stainless steel
I can think of a lot of other things that would be handy for!

 

[SlickWilly]

I'm trying to follow you. I think I understand the use of a crimp in a post hole to make the wire thicker and easier to tighten down but I don't see how you use an eyelet to secure the wire to a screw. You are referring to those tube Eyelets right?

I'm intrigued

Regards
Tony

Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.

I also found these --> Crimp end, sterling silver, 3x1mm tube with loop, 0.4mm inside diameter. Sold per pkg of 50. - Fire Mountain Gems and Beads

And these --> Cord end, fold-over, silver-plated steel, 5x5mm with 4mm inside diameter. Sold per pkg of 100. - Fire Mountain Gems and Beads

 

[HolmanGT]

I'm trying to follow you. I think I understand the use of a crimp in a post hole to make the wire thicker and easier to tighten down but I don't see how you use an eyelet to secure the wire to a screw. You are referring to those tube Eyelets right?

I'm intrigued

Regards
Tony

Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.

Oops wrong terminology they are called crimp ends located here with picture: Crimp end, sterling silver, 3x1mm tube with loop, 0.4mm inside diameter. Sold per pkg of 50. - Fire Mountain Gems and Beads

Edit-2: Straight tubular crimps here: http://www.firemountaingems.com/itemdetails/h209682fd

 

[HolmanGT]

I also found these --> Crimp end, sterling silver, 3x1mm tube with loop, 0.4mm inside diameter. Sold per pkg of 50. - Fire Mountain Gems and Beads

And these --> Cord end, fold-over, silver-plated steel, 5x5mm with 4mm inside diameter. Sold per pkg of 100. - Fire Mountain Gems and Beads

Willy,

The first ones are the ones I use the second item you listed are similar for sure but they may be a little on the big side. They are silver plated steel which should be OK but when I was looking for them I was already paranoid about using Nickel wire and thought I would pick the least offensive metal and when I found the Sterling Silver ones I pounced on them. If it was good enough for the rich to eat off of and with that justification I figured they would be OK for vaping.

After I ordered I remember that the "Down Fall" of the Roman Empire was partially attributed to the use of lead dishes and utensils. I was able to write that off under "We can't live for ever" albeit I don't see why not.

PS - The part about the Romans has nothing to do with anything or any point I was trying to make. I have no idea why I added that.