Thanks so much, BigLungs. I'll remember that next time. I didn't mean to imply I used the old coil. I replaced it with a 1 ohm coil I built, but thought I could dry burn it in the coil housing to remove any residual oils and whatnot. Next time I'll use my propane torch before I put it in. Hitting it now at 20 watts and that taste is gone (as far as I can tell). It tastes great, but I'll still heed your advice next time.
Rayon wick, better flow, flavor, saturation and Nic Hit!
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Thanks so much, BigLungs. I'll remember that next time. I didn't mean to imply I used the old coil. I replaced it with a 1 ohm coil I built, but thought I could dry burn it in the coil housing to remove any residual oils and whatnot. Next time I'll use my propane torch before I put it in. Hitting it now at 20 watts and that taste is gone (as far as I can tell). It tastes great, but I'll still heed your advice next time.
It could still be a rayon density issue, I'm not ruling that out.
Like I said though, the insulators in those heads can't handle the heat from dry burning, which is why I jumped to that right away. All I am doing is sharing my experience on the subject.
Duly noted. Thanks, Woofer! I guess it was more of a nutty taste than a dry hit taste and it wasn't all that horrible even at first. I appreciate BigLung's advice and value his opinion, but I don't think it was a burnt insulator. I won't make the same stupid mistake again, but I just quickly pulsed it a couple times while watching the coils...just enough for them to barely start to glow red. Oh well, we live and learn. That's why I'm here. Thanks, guys. Now I know one more thing to not do.
A nutty taste in the beginning isn't bad. I actually want to have a nutty taste because I know the wick will hold for a VERY long time once it beds in.
Sometimes a perfect wick will feel watery / wet in two or three days which basically means you were just a izzy tiny bit on the low side.
With rayon I rather have too much than too little
Regards
Tony
Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.
Sometimes a perfect wick will feel watery / wet in two or three days which basically means you were just a izzy tiny bit on the low side.
With rayon I rather have too much than too little
Regards
Tony
Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.
It could have been oils on the coils (say that 5 times fast) let me offer you a little advice. Don't dry burn the coils in the Kanger OOC heads, the rubber grommet can't handle it. Pre burn your coils with a small butane torch from wally-world or lowes. Less than $20 and are great for coil building. Do this prior to installing the coil in the head. Heck I have messed couple of grommets up just playin with to many watts on saturated wick coils in these little heads. But I still love them rebuilt with rayon!
Okay, got it. Thanks, mudram.
But I still love them rebuilt with rayon!
Yeah, me too. After it straightened out, it wicks and tastes great. It was super easy and, more importantly, cheap to do. If I can sit down, once every couple of months, and rebuild 5 (a packs worth) in an hour, I'm makin' money...that's how I like to look at it anyway. The way I have it figured, with DIY, I have the replacement cost for all the consumables in my nicotine delivery systems down to less than $20 a month. That gives me quite a bit of headroom, compared to smoking, to purchase more gear. That's my story and I'm stickin' to it.
Thanks again for the help, folks.
Nick
I wouldn't worry about pulsing a rebuilt Kanger head to remove residual oils and to check for proper heating. Just don't stand on the fire button- all you need to do is get the coil hot enough to give off that tell-tale puff of smoke, and to see the coil is heating from the inside out, w/o any hot legs. In my experience the real damage is done to the insulators by a hot leg, and if you don't dry burn the coil before wicking, you'll never know you have a problem until the atty is built and filled. Again- just my experience, YMMV.
Below is a Kanger head from a Protank 2, wick is almost dry after finishing the tank. It's a NR-R-NR coil so no worries about burned insulators. I rebuilt it using 6T of 32g Kanthal, 1/16" ID, 1.8Ω. Legs are 30g nickel. Good all around conservative build, I run it around 10w, give or take. This is after 55ml of DIY Capella Caramel/Vanilla 40/60 12mg. Not claiming any sort of record here, just don't recall any recent photos of well-used Kanger heads:
Below is a Kanger head from a Protank 2, wick is almost dry after finishing the tank. It's a NR-R-NR coil so no worries about burned insulators. I rebuilt it using 6T of 32g Kanthal, 1/16" ID, 1.8Ω. Legs are 30g nickel. Good all around conservative build, I run it around 10w, give or take. This is after 55ml of DIY Capella Caramel/Vanilla 40/60 12mg. Not claiming any sort of record here, just don't recall any recent photos of well-used Kanger heads:
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That's what I KEEP explaining to my wife when she fusses about all the vape mail being delivered!
Im gonna cut in off topic...
If you guys have watched the news or weather, that big tornado in illinios started 10-15 mi from my house. Petty crazy! At least it was mostly farm land... At my old job, I worked for a lot of those people in that whole area.
If you guys have watched the news or weather, that big tornado in illinios started 10-15 mi from my house. Petty crazy! At least it was mostly farm land... At my old job, I worked for a lot of those people in that whole area.
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Glad to see you posting after the danger has passed. Stay safe bud!
Short of a storm cellar or bomb shelter, I don't know how you can stay safe in a tornado, but try anyway!
I wouldn't worry about pulsing a rebuilt Kanger head to remove residual oils and to check for proper heating. Just don't stand on the fire button- all you need to do is get the coil hot enough to give off that tell-tale puff of smoke, and to see the coil is heating from the inside out, w/o any hot legs. In my experience the real damage is done to the insulators by a hot leg, and if you don't dry burn the coil before wicking, you'll never know you have a problem until the atty is built and filled. Again- just my experience, YMMV.
Below is a Kanger head from a Protank 2, wick is almost dry after finishing the tank. It's a NR-R-NR coil so no worries about burned insulators. I rebuilt it using 6T of 32g Kanthal, 1/16" ID, 1.8Ω. Legs are 30g nickel. Good all around conservative build, I run it around 10w, give or take. This is after 55ml of DIY Capella Caramel/Vanilla 40/60 12mg. Not claiming any sort of record here, just don't recall any recent photos of well-used Kanger heads:
cobalt, the juices I vape cause gunking and I can't get near that life span unless I'm vaping unflavored juice. For a long time I'd rebuild once I got a burnt tasting hit, then after reading Jeremy's post on how he cleans the gunk off a coil I tried to find a way to clean those tiny kanger heads. I tried wetting the coil and wick with straight pg or vg and swabbing the crud off the top with a q-tip which works but leaves the crud under the coil. There is also crud all under the coil inside the chamber from the black specks that pop off the coil as it gunks.
Then it hit me one day to try the same trick I use to get past the first few hits of a woody tasting new wick, blow back through the atty while firing. Now when I get that first hint of a burnt hit I'll blow back through the atty as hard as I can and as long at the mod will fire three or four times, I don't change the wattage. Dark juice and those small black specs will start to come out of the pro tank air holes, I loosely warp a tissue around the vent to catch it. More times then not this will loosen the crud, flush it off the coil and also flush the loose crud from inside of the chamber.
Blowing back through as hard as you can creates an venturi effect just like with a carburetor, the difference in the air pressure rushing past the coil pulls juice into the wick & chamber and flushes the crud away.
Imagine the throttle valve at the bottom is the coil/wick and the fuel is ejuice being drawn in.
Watching The Godfather so I missed that, glad you and your family is OK!
I was rebuilding ProTanks, until I found the Fogger. With the coil recessed into a cup it can be a problem to clean the coil, no question. I still use CE3s and rebuild them with the coil even with the wick slots. I also use NR-R-NR coils. That way I can safely dry burn and rewick when they get "non-productive".
I used to dry-burn Protank heads all the time. I had to trim the insulators to keep them from melting, but as long as I did that, dry-burning was a non-issue.
If I vape something like NT ACB, there's no way I could get anywhere near that much life from a Kanger head. But on lighter juices I do much better. The juice I used above is definitely on the lighter side (7.5% total flavoring w/0.5% sucralose as a sweetener), but still gives me good flavor. On these little Kanger heads I don't bother dry burning/rewicking. I just do a fresh rebuild once I get a dozen or so.
At first I didn't use NR-R-NR but after a dozen rebuilds the insulators were getting discolored. Not badly, but there were dark areas that wouldn't wash off and over time I could see that they would only continue to degrade. I never got any change in flavor but being the tool junkie that I am, I cobbled together a wire welder and started making coils that wouldn't ever cause the insulators to discolor or burn. Besides, I wanted to use ribbon in the PT2 and using round wire tails makes this a little neater.
At first I didn't use NR-R-NR but after a dozen rebuilds the insulators were getting discolored. Not badly, but there were dark areas that wouldn't wash off and over time I could see that they would only continue to degrade. I never got any change in flavor but being the tool junkie that I am, I cobbled together a wire welder and started making coils that wouldn't ever cause the insulators to discolor or burn. Besides, I wanted to use ribbon in the PT2 and using round wire tails makes this a little neater.
Same here, I'll have to give that a try.
I've thought about welding legs but haven't got there yet. When I build a new coil I pulse it on the lowest setting just enough until it stops smoking and that has helped to keep from burning the insulators but once in a while I'll scorch one.- Status
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