Rayon wick, better flow, flavor, saturation and Nic Hit!

[SlickWilly]

FYI, the forum is changing to new software soon. Seems few know, I didn't until I read on another thread.
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/announcements-news/665813-moving-new-forum-software.html

May want to backup your feedback rating, blogs and other posts important to you in case they disappear. You can save a webpage as html files on your computer, you'll want to save them as "Complete" and you'll have to save each page separately. You can also grab screen shots, I'd do both.

 

[slavkov]

I always said I was 'gifted'

Regards
Tony

Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.

Give me your address and I will send you a bag of balls

 

[JeremyR]

FYI, the forum is changing to new software soon. Seems few know, I didn't until I read on another thread.
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/announcements-news/665813-moving-new-forum-software.html

May want to backup your feedback rating, blogs and other posts important to you in case they disappear. You can save a webpage as html files on your computer, you'll want to save them as "Complete" and you'll have to save each page separately. You can also grab screen shots, I'd do both.

Oh crap this is a little dicey... Always worried on major upgrades.. Please rayon thread make it with no corruptions. I worked for a large ISP and when we moved to new software they kept the old one intact and reachable for the stuff that didn't make it.

I did see they are noting google results and since I mentioned how we are second to that other site for the reasons I listed. I think they have taken note.

Still worrisome that my old hangout is going to be different.fingers crossed!

 

[awsum140]

Like I said in another thread about this...I hate teaching this old horse new tricks.

 

[jaxgator]

Ok, so I mostly build with nickel now save my drippers. I had been using rayon in my kanthal built drippers and JOC in my nickel built tanks. Reason being, I couldn't seem to get enough rayon in the nickel coil without destroying it, especially single strand 30g.

I received my Mark Bugs Chalice III a week or so ago in anticipation of my Squask (Squonker Flask ). Yesterday, I decided to put a nickel build in it. Only this time, I was bound and determined to wick it with rayon.

I guess I missed this and didn't think it was recommended but I took a rather large piece of rayon (approximately 1/4" wide) and rolled it between my palms. Threaded it through the coil and to my surprise, I didn't destroy the coil. Yay!

This was with 30g nickel, 8/9 wrap, 2mm ID. It's a 14mm atty so I didn't think I could fit my usual 3mm ID coil in it.

Here's a close up shot of it wicked.

If anyone's interested, I posted the full build thread here: http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/coil-builds/666344-chalice-iii-build.html.

 

[Kaana]

my problem is:

after giving a break to vape like 5-10 mins with dripper,

on the first 1-2 pulls the nicotine level of juice felts double, hits very hard then reverts to normal.

can be hot/warm coil difference?

since I have that issue I had to switch to muji but plenty of rayon became useless

 

[JeremyR]

Excellent jax!

As long as your palms are clean should be no problem.

My last video I posted the twist method which would work great for nickle builds too. I haven't had any issue with that wick other than I went a little too tight.

 

[tchavei]

Give me your address and I will send you a bag of balls

Only if I'm paying

Pm sent

Regards
Tony

Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.

 

[JeremyR]

my problem is:

after giving a break to vape like 5-10 mins with dripper,

on the first 1-2 pull the nicotine level of juice felts double, hits very hard then reverts to normal.

can be hot/warm coil difference?

since I have that issue I had to switch to muji but plenty of rayon became useless.

That the point kannatila. Thats why I said nic hit is out of this world in the op. That's what I like some may not like that level of potent vape.

Your nic needs to be reduced by 1/3 for rayon.. Sounds like just a really wet coil you have there. Density can be adjusted to compensate. .Rayon needs more power too.

Makes me wonder how many don't like it because of the major nic hit and don't realize its actually a good thing. Because you can reduce the nic level.

 

[Kaana]

That the point kannatila. Thats why I said nic hit is out of this world in the op. That's what I like some may not like that level of potent vape.

Your nic needs to be reduced by 1/3 for rayon.. Sounds like just a really wet coil you have there. Density can be adjusted to compensate. .Rayon needs more power too.

Makes me wonder how many don't like it because of the major nic hit and don't realize its actually a good thing.

To me thats a con cause I vape 4mg juices with dripper at home for chilling out.

I use rayon wicks when I vape outdoor with slim & normal tanks and very happy with it.

it's not keeping gunk like org. cotton.

Thank you JeremyR for very well explanation,

I was gonna boil the rayon, thought something wrong with it

 

[JeremyR]

Everyone has thier own preferences so what ever works for you.

To match 4 on organic cotton you would probably need to go down to 2.7 to 3 tops.

Happy vaping

 

[Kaana]

Everyone has thier own preferences so what ever works for you.

To match 4 on organic cotton you would probably need to go down to 2.7 to 3 tops.

Happy vaping

will try that ty, happy vaping

 

[slavkov]

Only if I'm paying

Pm sent

Regards
Tony

Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.

Pm you back. Not paying for anything. The info from the comparison with the tidis will be better payment

 

[tchavei]

Pm you back. Not paying for anything. The info from the comparison with the tidis will be better payment

I guess it will be time to get out my rusty Camera and do some side by side comparison between German and American balls


Regards
Tony

Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.

 

[slavkov]

I guess it will be time to get out my rusty Camera and do some side by side comparison between German and American balls


Regards
Tony

Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.

.

 

[ndb70]

Here I am reporting back about my experience with the tidi balls I just got a couple of days ago (10-balls bags from atmistique.gr, see a few posts back):
I've already been using rayon in the past, and it should have been of the "big sally box" breed (at least that's what the vendor said) and I was quite satisfied but not that much over KGD.
Now I have to say these tidi balls seem to make a difference.
I don't know if it was a sort of "first-time luck", but I went rebuilding a subtank stock OCC coil with nickel (to use on my vaporshark dna40) and the results are for now amazing!
The coil was already a nickel one, bought together with the VS dna40, but I was never able to vape at more than 15W (I prefer keeping temperature at 400-410F).
So I decided to rebuild the coil (seen a couple of yt vids and it seemed quite easy) from scratch and put my new tidi balls rayon in it.
I did an 8 wrap, 3mm I.D., spaced coil with 28ga NI200, coming out at abot 0.2 ohms (a bit on the high side, but I think it's due to the long legs).
Took particular care in ensuring the legs are firmly captured by the insulator and filled as much as I could with rayon.
Ejuice is around 70VG.
I'm now vaping at 19W and temperature keeps hovering around 390F, nice and steady bubbles coming from the coil feeding holes and flavour is clear as crystal glass.
I also did let the VS do its refinement and resistance seems quite solid, didn't change at all after about a 30 minutes rest.
What to say?
I'm really happy, thanks for making me curious about this.

Andrea.

 

[cobalt327]

With 50 packs of NR-R-NR coils for $2, is it worth welding up the wires?
Lightning Vapes sells Silicone insulators for Kanger coils, they must be more resilient than the rubber ones.

Those prewelded wires from FT are cheap, the only thing that concerns me about them is the resistance wire is black, and has a sort of rough feel to them- not glassy smooth like Kanthal or NiCr wire that we usually buy. And there have been reports from users of those premade wires of off tastes, sore throats and other allergic-type symptoms. Now, I don't put a lot of stock in such things but just the same, there's some peace of mind in making them yourself, and knowing exactly what went into them.

Silicone insulators are overpriced IMO. That said, silicone insulators like the original Kanger-type (and presumably the ones from LV) do hold up better to heat than the cheaper rubber ones in my experience, but they're still not immune to scorching from a hot leg. But you can use any insulator- even the cheap rubber ones- if you also use NR-R-NR wire for the coils.

 

[cobalt327]

I don't want to come off as a fanatic on NR-R-NR/welding coil wire! In fact until I got around to building a simple welder, I never used NR tails. The main reason for the welder was to put round wire NR tails on ribbon Kanthal (0.1mm x 0.3mm) resistance wire for the Kanger heads. But after doing that- and seeing no degradation to the insulators whatsoever- I recognized that next to rebuilding in the first place, extending the life of the insulators was going to be the biggest long-term savings.

I have some of the FT NR-R-NR wires on hand, I got them to see what they were like but never got around to actually using them. I think I'll go ahead and build a few heads using them to see if I can detect any difference between them and the ones I make. I suspect I won't be able to tell them apart, but it's worth trying to see.

 

[SlickWilly]

My 2 cents, I doubt I'll ever go to welding legs, the few insulators I've had to toss doesn't make the time and expense worth it, for me. I might try the pre-built someday but I'm fussy about my coils and having to work with a pre-set length of wire seems like that would just end up frustrating me because I like a neat coil.

 

[awsum140]

I built a CD welder and started using NR-R-NR coils early on in my rebuilding efforts. I've found it especially good with my CE3s because it keeps all the heat production limited to the coil and well away from the silicon or rubber grommets in the base. That's especially good when dry burning which has now become my standard method when rebuilding since I use rayon wick. The excessive heat of dry burning would quickly degrade those insulators , at least in my experience.

Since I found rayon wicks and rebuildable tanks, the CD welder doesn't get much use though.