RM2 / RBA 2.0 / Reomizer 2 Rebuild Tutorial
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Awesome. Just to clarify, it's the cotton balls that sells anywhere?
Also I couldn't really find the 14 gauge lock needle anywhere so ordered from amazon... 50 pieces...
Also I couldn't really find the 14 gauge lock needle anywhere so ordered from amazon... 50 pieces...
Awesome. Just to clarify, it's the cotton balls that sells anywhere?
Also I couldn't really find the 14 gauge lock needle anywhere so ordered from amazon... 50 pieces...
I got the sterile rolled cotton from CVS pharmacy. I imagine you could use a cotton ball too but I have heard that some of them have some distasteful chemicals on them? Dunno.
Wizard labs has the needles very cheap. I just ordered some 16 gauge too to make smaller bore coils too
I got the sterile rolled cotton from CVS pharmacy. I imagine you could use a cotton ball too but I have heard that some of them have some distasteful chemicals on them? Dunno.
Wizard labs has the needles very cheap. I just ordered some 16 gauge too to make smaller bore coils too
At the local drug store here I picked up 100% organic cotton balls. The regular ones I heard are processed with alot of chemicals. No odd tastes here just a little cotton flavor from the 1st few vapes.
I get my 100% Organic cotton balls from Walgreens. They're "Studio 35 Beauty" and they're either in the make-up section or the bandages section. (I've found them both places.) If you can't find organic, then just 100% cotton will work, and they're everywhere. Just pull off a tiny piece and roll it between your fingers into a "string" and slide it right through. It'll expand a LOT, so do use too much.
Here is a photo tutorial of a very easy way to build the RM2. Many of the principals would apply to any bottomfed RBA. Props to Juice Junkies photo tutorial on the original REOmizer for simplifying the process and giving me the courage to try it for myself. For me the photos work so much better than videos, cause you can look at the same one as long as you have to to understand it. It is going to be a sequence of posts, since my coil building skills are much better than my picture posting ones
Here goes:
Here are the tools i use:
View attachment 205743
It's already been said but I'm gonna repeat it....a picture is worth a thousand words. Great tutorial, thanks for posting.
I've been using a similar method on my reduxes, drunker, and dream 804s for a while now.
Nice post!
I have been using a 4-40 machine screw to wrap my coils. Find they make nice coils that don't touch each other. Just for grins I found the 14 gage needle fits nicely inside the finished coil. Then using your method to pull my cotton wick through the needle, then, remove the needle from the coils. Coils remain separated and don't touch each other. I am rebuilding T3's, but, should work the same here.
I have been using a 4-40 machine screw to wrap my coils. Find they make nice coils that don't touch each other. Just for grins I found the 14 gage needle fits nicely inside the finished coil. Then using your method to pull my cotton wick through the needle, then, remove the needle from the coils. Coils remain separated and don't touch each other. I am rebuilding T3's, but, should work the same here.
Awesome! I started out using a screw too. Worked great. Once I realized that a tight group of touching coils worked even better, I started rolling with the needles. Oh, and yes, you'll get a hotspot if your coils touch - the entire coil becomes a red, evenly glowing hotspot
Awesome! I started out using a screw too. Worked great. Once I realized that a tight group of touching coils worked even better, I started rolling with the needles. Oh, and yes, you'll get a hotspot if your coils touch - the entire coil becomes a red, evenly glowing hotspot
Really no need to replace coil everytime your cotton wick gets burnt, broken, or funky. Simply take out old wick, dry burn coil until all the old juice and wick pieces are burnt to white ash, remove ash from coil and slip in a new cotton wick! I dryburn/ rewick about every 2-3 days. I recoil about once a week.
This is what i'm considering normal. Am I wrong?(I don't need to recoil though, but I will if the wife is crabby)
^^^That's exactly what I do, too. In fact, I can go two or three weeks on a coil.....I just change out the wick every week or so. After enough dry burns, it seems like the wire finally just gets too brittle and finally breaks when I'm pulling an old wick out...or the coils get too distorted and I finally just make a new, neater-looking one. I could probably (sometimes) go a lot longer than I do on one coil....I just WANT to make a new one (to see if I remember how to....)
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Both of my VVG's are load with unflavored and the setup looks brand new(coil and wick)
The Grand is toting flavored juice. I'm not getting too frustrated with a simple wick change every 4-5 days.
Did I mention what fine people you all are?
The Grand is toting flavored juice. I'm not getting too frustrated with a simple wick change every 4-5 days.
Did I mention what fine people you all are?
I think the joose has much to do with coil longevity. With some lighter jooses I can go up to a month on a coil, with maybe weekly wick changes. Darker jooses may require daily wick swaps and weekly coil swaps. One joose gunks my coils so badly that even after a good dry burn they still taste all funky.
Am I the only one that can't see any photos on this?
Has anyone tested the resistance under load?
Has anyone tested the resistance under load?
That is really strange. They were uploaded directly to ECF. Does anyone have any suggestions on how I can "reload" em?
Thank you.
Thank you.
That is really strange. They were uploaded directly to ECF. Does anyone have any suggestions on how I can "reload" em?
Thank you.
Ask Jack he is the reloading expert. Lol
Photobucket would be my suggestion.
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