RDA Sapor RDA by Wotofo

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Tom Forde

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Okay so an update on my issues with the Sapor. I don't know if this is a flaw to the design or if I just got two flawed Sapors. The positive center pin and insulator surrounding it. It seems like the center pin screw carries too much heat with the rhodium plating. My first Sapor, I was running a build around .12-.15Ω. I was using strictly 30A batteries: VTC4's & Nitecore 30A/2000mAh inside of my direct to battery mech. Now normally when I thread the bottom button housing onto the mod, there will be a small gap between the button housing and the battery tube part of the mod due to most 18650's varying in size of a couple mm. That's normal to me.
On day 5 of my first Sapor, I changed out my battery, threaded the button housing back on and when I hit the point where there would usually be a gap, the housing kept threading on with a slight bit of resistance. Me being all paranoid of shorting out, pulled everything apart and saw that the center pin had moved up inwards past the insulator. I took the chimney/topcap off the Sapor and I saw that the T-block center post had been pushed up because of this. I hadn't touched the center pin prior to this happening. So I push the T block center post back down and hear an audible click noise and saw that the insulator/center pin had also moved down. Faulty insulator I thought. But then I tried tightening the center pin & it was already tight - it just pushed the center post up again. I swapped out for a higher ohm build and same thing happened.
So after 7 days of owning the first I brought it back to the B&M I got it from, they replaced it for free with a new unit. I throw it on an ipv4 with a .25Ω build at 65w & THE SAME THING HAPPENED! Detrimental flaw to the design of this rda.
 
0.17

I love my Sapor. It chucks as good or better then my Troll.

GNRfrOa.jpg

yykeZ8y.jpg


No insulator/PEEK issues so far. Day 10
 
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Is your center post block completely straight with the negatives? It looks a little bit off in that pic but it could just be the angle

Now that you mention it, yes it does look to be staggered 1mm or so to one side of the deck. The auth code checks out on the Wotofo site so its not a clone either.
 

Major911

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Had to share this little fix I came up with. I prefer single coil setup but the Sapor doesn't offer this airflow option. Took a vape band cut a cyclops slot to match the air hole on one side. Fits perfectly and looks sharp while blocking airflow on the opposite side. I'm sure this is not an original idea but I figured I'd share it anyway.
fa868664f8f5d1c1d5c46d598ece4cba.jpg



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Mooch

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  • May 13, 2015
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    Had to share this little fix I came up with. I prefer single coil setup but the Sapor doesn't offer this airflow option. Took a vape band cut a cyclops slot to match the air hole on one side. Fits perfectly and looks sharp while blocking airflow on the opposite side. I'm sure this is not an original idea but I figured I'd share it anyway.
    fa868664f8f5d1c1d5c46d598ece4cba.jpg



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    Nice!
    I ended up using a piece of Kapton (very heat resistant) tape on the inside of one slot. Not nearly as elegant a solution as yours. :)
     

    Ryanmcg1

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    Oct 7, 2014
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    Had to share this little fix I came up with. I prefer single coil setup but the Sapor doesn't offer this airflow option. Took a vape band cut a cyclops slot to match the air hole on one side. Fits perfectly and looks sharp while blocking airflow on the opposite side. I'm sure this is not an original idea but I figured I'd share it anyway.
    fa868664f8f5d1c1d5c46d598ece4cba.jpg



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    Cool you found a solution, nice little fix. Seems like the protruding lip of the top cap helps to mount flush and keep the band straight and in place.
     
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    RiderVapor

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    May 9, 2015
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    My question is coil location for best results on the Sapor, found it once when testing a 4 strand 26g twisted and then flattened, making spiral wire. This was a single coil build and used n80 since not having any kanthal which is on it's way. Can someone point me in the right direction with some picture from top and side views, etc?
    Thank you.
     
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    Major911

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    Cool you found a solution, nice little fix. Seems like the protruding lip of the top cap helps to mount flush and keep the band straight and in place.
    Exactly. The band fits right nice under that top rim making it look flush and keeps it from shifting around. I'm so pleased with the results I'm going to try it on another atty that doesn't support single cool air flow.


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    TheJester

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    Jan 26, 2015
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    I ordered one of these after hearing all the stellar reviews. I was about to buy an RTA because my RDA's all get leaky (I keep them in a side pocket most of the day) until I learned about top air-flow.

    I thought 30 USD for an authentic was a great deal. Then I was scoping a mod and some wire on focalecig and found they are 15 USD (still authentic) from chinese suppliers. I'm really looking forward to this RDA!

    Probably going to buy a vape band too now :).

    Edit - Major911 you have great taste that's the same one I ordered(green splash on black).
     
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    Major911

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    I carry my RDA's in 35mm film canisters in my case and the sweet part about the sapor is when I put it in the canister I close the airflow and there's virtually no mess with it laying on its side. This is truly one of the best RDA's I've found for many reasons.


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    Mrez

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    Just got mine in the other day. Loaded it with dual 26 gauge kanthal fused coils. The flavor of the juice seemed to be a bit off, so I scrubbed it with hot water and soap after stripping it down. It's better, but something still tastes off. I'll probably go to a dual claptons and see how that tastes before making a final call.
     

    Ryanmcg1

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    Oct 7, 2014
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    I ordered one from element-vape on eBay this weekend for $23. I got the tracking number this morning then I just got an email from them saying they was going to ship it but they are going to list it as out of stock in black because the black one is defective and asked if I want a different color. I just asked for a refund I am lacking RDAs in black and think the black Sapor looks good.
     

    caboog78

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    Apr 4, 2015
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    Picked up a stainless/silver Sapor to go with my stainless SMPL clone, also from Wotofo. Put a build on it, got a fresh 25R out, set everything up and.... nothing. Seems as if the 510 connector is too short on the one I have. It works fine on my other devices, just not the hybrid style mech I wanted it for. First world problems, I know. It threw me off because I have another, in the black/green splatter, that has lived on a green SMPL clone since the day it came home, so bad luck on the tolerances for me somewhere.

    Edit to add: Swapping parts around saved the day! The deck from the splatter has a slightly longer pin than the one in the stainless in my specific case. No idea if that is a thing in general or luck of the draw as far as manufacturing goes. Both decks make good contact on my green SMPL, and the deck form the splatter top works on the SS SMPL, so a little swap and I'm in business, aesthetically speaking. Tinkering FTW! My SS SMPL could probably use some cleaning while I'm at it, as well, which may or may not impact things here.

    Edit2: Nope, bad news all around for the second Sapor. See my next post
     
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