SFY Plug - Inspired by ZFM

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Faceless

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Just read this post and he states a much higher temp that close to caution.. though with it wet it could be ok. I'd still say cut the plug down so it wont go that deap.

Also the test was done with a 801 and those that use a 510 atty know its a much hotter atty so i'd still like to know just how hot a 510 gets with 5/6 volts under load.

Your link is broken. Just do your own test.

There is no way the atty gets 375 degress, your ejuice wouldnt vape. Do you know how hot 375 degrees is? This shouldnt even be a discussion. The atty doesnt even get over 300 degrees at 6 v and above it will not exceed 150-160 degrees. Here are some test for you.

Magnum mod - (2 - CR2 Batteries in series)
Voltage
6.46 drop to 5.1 = 1.36 Total Voltage Drop Amp Draw 1.39
Temp 1st-104 2nd-115 3rd-123 4th-130 5th-138 Avg= 122

USB Mod -
(Battery connector Hole Plugged)
Voltage 5.07 drop to 4.18 = .89 Total Voltage Drop Amp Draw 1.2
Temp 1st-104 2nd-111 3rd-116.8 4th-128 5th-126 Avg= 115

USB Mod -
(Battery connector Hole OPEN)
Voltage 5.07 drop to 4.18 = .89 Total Voltage Drop Amp Draw 1.2
Temp 1st-98 2nd-102 3rd-107 4th-109 5th-111 Avg= 105.4

Regular Battery -
Voltage 4.17 drop to 3.62 = .55 Total Voltage Drop Amp Draw 1.12
Temp 1st-104 2nd-109 3rd-112 4th-145 5th-162 Avg= 120.4

CR123 Battery - (NON-rechargeable Lithium)
Voltage 3.28 drop to 2.98 = .3 Total Voltage Drop Amp Draw .8
Temp 1st-98 2nd-104 3rd-105 4th-107 5th-109 Avg= 104.6
 

eclypse

Moved On
Sep 9, 2009
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Macomb MI
Just read THIS post and he states a much higher temp that close to caution.. though with it wet it could be ok. I'd still say cut the plug down so it wont go that deap.

Also the test was done with a 801 and those that use a 510 atty know its a much hotter atty so i'd still like to know just how hot a 510 gets with 5/6 volts under load.

Link now fixed!


Hi All,



Over the past several months I have seen this topic raised many times and understand why some are concerned.



I've just conducted some tests that I thought some of those folks may be interested in.



The following is a simple attempt to share my observations with those interested parties and should not be construed as a recommendation either for or against the use of VG in your personal devices.



First, the devices and test conditions:



E-Cig./PV:

Prodigy V1 (resistored) with full charge on 2X 3.0V tenergy LiFePO batteries, Reading 6.92V (~5.5V underload) at the atty adaptor.



Atomizer (Atty): Saibao true DSE801 tall bridge. (With Bridge removed for testing purposes)





Liquid: DIY 18mg. 60% PG, 20% VG Base.



Temperature Testing Equipment: Etek 10709 Multimeter(MM) with temp capability to 785 degrees F. K type thermocouple (TC) supplied with Etek MM.



I tested the calibration of the MM and thermocouple via boiling water and an ice bath prior to use. Boiling H20= 211F, Ice Bath= 33F. Not perfection but close enough for this application.

I should mention that I chose to use this Device primarily due to the extremely small thermocouple,



which would allow me to take readings inside of an atty while in operation.





The Testing:



My initial reading was taken with the atty clean and dry and the Thermocouple (TC) in contact (touching) with the coil. After continuously energizing the coil for 6 seconds, the peak temp reading was 689F (365C).



I allowed atty coil to cool for 5 minutes and then dripped four drops of liquid into the atty and waited for 1 minute (allowing time for liquid to disperse)



I repeated the 6 sec. heat cycle with TC touching the wetted coil. Peak temp was 324F (162C).



After clearing the vapor from the atty, I posistioned the TC just above the atty coil (~1mm) and repeated the 6 sec. cycle again. peak temp of vapor at coil was 218F (103C).



After allowing atty to cool for a few minutes I added 2 more drops of liquid.

With the TC ~1/2" above the coil I repeated the 6 sec. cycle 3 times with a 20 sec. interval between each cycle. Peak temps were 139F (59C), 146F (63C) and 148F (64C).



Observations:

This test was conducted using a newer High Voltage Device (Prodigy V1)at peak performance to simulate a "worst case scenario" and is not indicative of a standard E-Cig./PV.



The 6 second cycle times are assumed to be extreme for this device as the manufacture recommends 3-5 seconds with this atty.



This test is not an attempt to simulate "real world" measurements derived from the same device when used as recommended.



There is no allowance for negative pressures present in normal operation which would certainly decrease the observed vapor temps.



Conclusions:

IMHO, The dry coil is capable of far exceeding the stated decomposition temp of VG (280-290C). However,When wetted, The coil peak temp is dramatically reduced and becomes incapable (under these conditions) of achieving required temps to decompose the VG into Acrolein.



Hope someone finds the data useful.



Mike


Those temps from the above test sound about right.. but where did you get your numbers from?? Dont sound logical as you show adverage temps higher for a standard 3.7v device then a device runing HV at 5.50 under load.. Was the test done with just taping on the button and not holding it for 3-5 seconds like one would under real world usage?
 
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Faceless

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Link now fixed!

I dont understand your statement?
He did a test on 6.92 volts and the top temp was 365 degrees on a dry atty held for 6 seconds. 365 doesnt effect the putty. I also dont put it on a dry atty, but thatnks for showing its safe to do. 365 degress was peak and it was on a HV. I also dont hold my button down for 6 seconds, he stated that was worse case scenerio. Thanks for the link.
 

Dillan

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Dec 9, 2009
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This is an interesting idea. My biggest remaining concern would be the effects of having the putty constantly exposed to moisture (and in particular, to a pretty decent organic solvent like PG/VG) over long periods - leeching might become an issue.

That said, that's what experiments are for, and you've got what looks like a fairly promising solution; makes one wonder why the carts themselves weren't designed with something like this as a setup rather than polyfill in the first place, if there's actually not a need for a "semi-solid" fill to wick to the atty.

My best guess as to the inner workings is that the bridge of the atty plugs the star shaped hole for the most part, right? So the wicking begins and ends with the atty itself, taking fluid directly from the reservoir above - and the bridge itself prevents the entire contents from simply dropping down, since it occupies most of the space, forcing the air/fluid interchange to occur in a very narrow pathway in the edge area. Or am I totally misunderstanding?
 

dubnluvn

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Oct 14, 2009
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San Diego, Ca
This is why M4 carts work so well compared to the 510. The smaller diameter reservoir allows for less wick (i use a small ball of wool roving) and a more efficient cart. The opening on the 510 is huge in comparison which requires more filler. The spring mod has done the best to address this imo but the large opening still makes it difficult to get optimal performance. Although I drip and use a 510 primarily, I fill M4 carts for my wife all the time. I also use a small ball of wool roving just at the end of the res. for her carts and when she hands them to me to refill they are absolutely bone dry, most of the time. I have a suspicion that this will acheive the same results with the 510.
 

eclypse

Moved On
Sep 9, 2009
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Macomb MI
I dont understand your statement?
He did a test on 6.92 volts and the top temp was 365 degrees on a dry atty held for 6 seconds. 365 doesnt effect the putty. I also dont put it on a dry atty, but thatnks for showing its safe to do. 365 degress was peak and it was on a HV. I also dont hold my button down for 6 seconds, he stated that was worse case scenerio. Thanks for the link.

I thought it was 350 degrees.

Point being i want to use it for HV with a 510 and its known that a 510 atty gets much hotter.

Just saying that your statment that its safe to use it for HV is unfounded.. need to be certain before you tell people its safe for it as alot of people like me use the 510 atty for HV at 5/6 volt use.

I dont have a problem with your mod and i'm not trying to bust it either.. dont want to hear someone get messed up with that stuff that deep down in the atty like you've shown using High voltage.
 

eclypse

Moved On
Sep 9, 2009
815
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Macomb MI
This is an interesting idea. My biggest remaining concern would be the effects of having the putty constantly exposed to moisture (and in particular, to a pretty decent organic solvent like PG/VG) over long periods - leeching might become an issue.

That said, that's what experiments are for, and you've got what looks like a fairly promising solution; makes one wonder why the carts themselves weren't designed with something like this as a setup rather than polyfill in the first place, if there's actually not a need for a "semi-solid" fill to wick to the atty.

My best guess as to the inner workings is that the bridge of the atty plugs the star shaped hole for the most part, right? So the wicking begins and ends with the atty itself, taking fluid directly from the reservoir above - and the bridge itself prevents the entire contents from simply dropping down, since it occupies most of the space, forcing the air/fluid interchange to occur in a very narrow pathway in the edge area. Or am I totally misunderstanding?

"Hopefully" Though negitive air pressure really holds the juice in.

I was hoping this stuff was hard when cured but i guess i'll have to use something else for that mod if i ever get to it.
 

SCOTTYBALLS

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Glad I sparked somthing forya Looks sweet Ego.. cant wait to try it, could posibly be the best find yet.. ;)

Silicone and plugs are the way to go. This should really help some others on the board since the bluefoam mods like the SLUG are toxic when heated.. looks like the search might be over!
 
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Scottbee

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Sep 18, 2009
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Also, could this be used as a substitute (and a possibly better material)?

Food Grade Silicone Sealant Says it can withstand constant temps up to 400ºF and up to 500ºF intermittently, as well as cheaper. <$5 opposed to $20.

That was what was basically used on the previous mod (ZFM derivative). The OP was tyring to find something that was a bit easier to handle, mold, and use.

Dsc00684.jpg
 

Faceless

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Dec 18, 2009
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This is an interesting idea. My biggest remaining concern would be the effects of having the putty constantly exposed to moisture (and in particular, to a pretty decent organic solvent like PG/VG) over long periods - leeching might become an issue.

That said, that's what experiments are for, and you've got what looks like a fairly promising solution; makes one wonder why the carts themselves weren't designed with something like this as a setup rather than polyfill in the first place, if there's actually not a need for a "semi-solid" fill to wick to the atty.

My best guess as to the inner workings is that the bridge of the atty plugs the star shaped hole for the most part, right? So the wicking begins and ends with the atty itself, taking fluid directly from the reservoir above - and the bridge itself prevents the entire contents from simply dropping down, since it occupies most of the space, forcing the air/fluid interchange to occur in a very narrow pathway in the edge area. Or am I totally misunderstanding?

Yes, you got it. It doesnt flood the atty. I let my nicostick stand upside down all night to see if it leaked, it didnt. My hole isnt actually a hole all the way through. it is more like a funnel shape. size 10 star tool to make the hole and a paper clip to round out the other side of hole. I insert it funnel down in the cart with the star hole hitting the bridge. I am trying a size 14 star icing tool. Looks like it will do it all for me. Heres a pic of what I mean. lol

DSCN3893.jpg

DSCN3894.jpg
 

Faceless

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Crap Ego! I was just at Hobby Lobby today (getting Smart Foam ... different story). I guess I'll be making another trip tomorrow.
:grr:

Let me know how it holds up. How easy is it to refill? Does it pop out and in easily?

EDIT: Noticed you were in Fort Worthless, TX ... I'm in Euseless, TX ... maybe I'll just drive over to "verify" it works ;-)

Yes it pops in and out ez. I just push it in with my fingers and remove it by sticking a paperclip or toothpick in the hole and prying it out. It stretches so you can just put ur dropper in the hole and drip, but u cant see if its full until its too late...lol...Holding up good so far. Keep everyone updated.
 

Faceless

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Ahh...I was unaware the ZFM was using silicone sealant. Cool. A couple questions...

1. Are you using VG or PG? Have you tried the other and does it perform as well?

2. I'm a little foggy on what you are using the icing tip for...can you explain that?

I use VG and wife uses PG. Both of us are using the mold, working fine so far.

I use the icing tip to create a funnel hole, instead of a perfect diameter hole. Seems to let the air vent better. I am trying all different types of ways to find the best. I made one with a size 10 star tool and paperclip size holes on the sides of it. Still curing, will test in a few minutes.

You can make any size, shape hole you want with any tool, I am just explaining what I used.
 

Faceless

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So, Ego. Is there a reason you are deviating from the original design of the star tool? I'm definitely going to be trying this today or tomorrow and was just curious.

I noticed the imprint of the bridge on the mold (I didnt let it cure totally so I could see the size of the hole needed). It seems the size 10 might be to small to let it breathe. It has to have air flow or you have to shake it to get it to wick. The funnel way makes it vent. Seeing if the paper clip holes on the side makes it good for the star tool, so i can quit using my wifes cooking tools...lol
 
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