That would be tough but i'd love to try as i was thinking about it as i'm sure many others may have as well.
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That would be tough but i'd love to try as i was thinking about it as i'm sure many others may have as well.
This looks awesome - anyone know where I can find it in Canada (or a suitable alternative?)
Thanks harpo - i saw the 'retailers' link and assumed it was in store only!
...Ouch on the shipping
...Ouch on the shipping
My biggest remaining concern with this is the putty itself, and any leeching that might result from long-term PV/VG (good solvent) contact with it. I don't consider the concern at this point strong enough to warrant a "don't do this" label - the fact that it's supposed to be food safe means it's at least safe at high Temp for short periods, which is really the best we can hope for most of the time with cart mods. But since this design seems to lend itself inherently to extended use, at least at first glance (doesn't lose it's "spring" or get "gunky" - at worst, it's a rinse-and-reuse type of idea), extended use test/simulation would be at least worth checking out.
I didn't come up with the numbers, only doing the math, don't shoot the messenger
I checked out the link you sent, but it didn't supply any hard info on the product (max temps, toxicity, etc.) and there is no msds to be found. I know it is rated for foods, but it also has a max temp that falls under the optimal high temp a HV atty can produce.
Please keep in mind that I am sure that number from the other post (not my conversion from F to C, but the temp test posted by eclypse) is a dry atty with fresh batt, etc...
Here is what I find hard to believe, that our juice vaporizes at 104 F or even at 122 F (The average temps listed on maddog's thread), I mean, think about it...104 F...you should be able to put some in your hand and rub your hands together to get some vapor.
I have no vested interest in debunking this or any other mod, I just want us all to be safe.
Are you saying- Have the liquid eventually coat the plug?
If so, the amount of putty I got for $20 is enough to make around 100,000 plugs. I have made around 15 to ship out and I am also sending those people some putty to experiment with and have plenty left over. It takes around 2-4 minutes to make the plug, you just have to let it cure for 20 minutes. I have found that 20 minutes isnt long enough though. I put mine in a hot cup of water for 5 minutes to speed up the curing. It says you can bake it for 5 minutes to cure it also. I just dont want to go in my wifes domain! lol
I didn't come up with the numbers, only doing the math, don't shoot the messenger
I know it is rated for foods, but it also has a max temp that falls under the optimal high temp a HV atty can produce.
Please keep in mind that I am sure that number from the other post (not my conversion from F to C, but the temp test posted by eclypse) is a dry atty with fresh batt, etc...
Here is what I find hard to believe, that our juice vaporizes at 104 F or even at 122 F (The average temps listed on maddog's thread), I mean, think about it...104 F...you should be able to put some in your hand and rub your hands together to get some vapor.
I have no vested interest in debunking this or any other mod, I just want us all to be safe.
lol...havent tried that...maybe we dont even need attys, just some Mr Miagi skills (sure I spelled that wrong). I did hold a lighter to it and it doesnt catch fire or melt though. Just gets soft. No problems in my chuck HV. Or my nicostick 3.7. Will keep you updated.
Your near ft worth? Come pick one up and BS with me while we vape lol. U a DJ? My cousin DJ'd for 99.5 but moved on to Fox Sports Net to host college game day Rivals.
According to wikipedia (not the greatest source in the world, admittedly, but for this I think it's right), PV boils at 188 C, and VG does so at 290 C.
That said, what we're doing inside our PVs is not boiling the juice, but heating it for evaporation. For comparison to something slightly more familiar, water boils at 100 C. But it will significantly evaporate well below that temperature - even at 50 C, you'll get some visible steam.
http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/2/25/Water_vapor_pressure_graph.jpg - Evaporation profile of water.
Water is almost unique in that it's an extremely powerful hydrogen bonding compound - each molecule is happy to be tied to four other molecules simultaneously, which is why some insects can literally walk on water. PG and VG are not quite as good at forming strong hydrogen bonds, I'm sure - which means they'll undergo fractional vaporization at lower temperatures, relative to their boiling point, than water will.
So it would not surprise me to get some vapor in the low 3-digits fahrenheit (about 40 to 50 C). And all we need is "some"
That said, what we're doing inside our PVs is not boiling the juice, but heating it for evaporation. For comparison to something slightly more familiar, water boils at 100 C. But it will significantly evaporate well below that temperature - even at 50 C, you'll get some visible steam.
http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/2/25/Water_vapor_pressure_graph.jpg - Evaporation profile of water.
Water is almost unique in that it's an extremely powerful hydrogen bonding compound - each molecule is happy to be tied to four other molecules simultaneously, which is why some insects can literally walk on water. PG and VG are not quite as good at forming strong hydrogen bonds, I'm sure - which means they'll undergo fractional vaporization at lower temperatures, relative to their boiling point, than water will.
So it would not surprise me to get some vapor in the low 3-digits fahrenheit (about 40 to 50 C). And all we need is "some"
Well, something like that. My worry is that, when you have a good solvent in close contact with something that's semi-solid, the solvent may do what it does best, and dissolve whatever's in contact with it. Some solvents are so powerful that you can't even keep them in a glass container, after all. PG and VG are "weak" compared to that, but they're good organic and polar solvents, good enough to keep nicotine happily dissolved in it at least. Any toxic molecules inside the putty aren't mobile enough to get into, say, a cookie during the time it takes for it to bake. But we could well be "baking" thousands of "cookies" with the same mold, with fluid getting into every dimple.
It's not a "hold your horses" concern, like I said - being food safe for baking is an excellent first step. But it is something that probably ought to be tested for ultimately, somehow; I'm pretty sure that a lot of end users of this idea, otherwise, will make one, maybe two, molds, and use them for months.
For what its worth it appears to be a two part silicone rubber.
Parent Company.
Casting Resin and Silicone Mold Making Rubber
Msds
http://www.alumilite.com/Category.cfm?Category=Silicone%20Rubber
Parent Company.
Casting Resin and Silicone Mold Making Rubber
Msds
http://www.alumilite.com/Category.cfm?Category=Silicone%20Rubber
Yes it is. It comes in a white putty bottle and a yellow putty bottle. You take 2 equal parts and combine them. It says non toxic and I supplied pics of the two putties seperated with the non toxic pics on 1st page.
Yea I've read the thread. I was just pointing out the msds and that it is silicone rubber which is a good thing.
I still intend to try it.
I still intend to try it.
Great work Ego...I also got tired of tasting blue foam went to the ZFM. This is the way I modded the mod...would work on yours to I guess.
I make a slot instead of a hole, reason being that when the bridge pushes in on the plug it opens it so fluid flows. When I am done vaping (like that happens often) I just back the cart up out of the atty about 3mm just before the air holes in the cart show, thus closing the slot and stopping the flow until next time. I also cut a small thin flap on the inside of the plug on one side after cured, then put the vent hole through where it lines up right under the flap...creating a one way valve...like a reed valve. While the plug is curing and skins over, I make a concave dent with a bottle over where the hole will go. When it is done I can put my bottle to the dent and fill the cart through the vent hole until fluid starts showing at the slot. Or you could use a syringe, either way. I also press the plug down a little before it completely cures too so it fits tighter in the cart.
Just my 2 cent...
Keep the ideas coming folks. Just think if the caveman would have said "the search is over" after inventing the stone wheel??...we would have some sore butts..................................besides I aint heard the fat lady sing....just whining.
I make a slot instead of a hole, reason being that when the bridge pushes in on the plug it opens it so fluid flows. When I am done vaping (like that happens often) I just back the cart up out of the atty about 3mm just before the air holes in the cart show, thus closing the slot and stopping the flow until next time. I also cut a small thin flap on the inside of the plug on one side after cured, then put the vent hole through where it lines up right under the flap...creating a one way valve...like a reed valve. While the plug is curing and skins over, I make a concave dent with a bottle over where the hole will go. When it is done I can put my bottle to the dent and fill the cart through the vent hole until fluid starts showing at the slot. Or you could use a syringe, either way. I also press the plug down a little before it completely cures too so it fits tighter in the cart.
Just my 2 cent...
Keep the ideas coming folks. Just think if the caveman would have said "the search is over" after inventing the stone wheel??...we would have some sore butts..................................besides I aint heard the fat lady sing....just whining.
Okay, see, this is what I am talkin about...great find Wireguy....
Guys, you gotz yourselves a nice mod, and I think this may be the solution for my DSE601
ATM we only have a new material to use for a mod.. untill people start trying it out and say "This way" works, then we'll have a mod.
The problem is the more complicated a mod gets the less people will try it.
Good luck to all those that play around with this stuff!
I'm heading out to a local hobby lobby near me and see if i can find it.
The problem is the more complicated a mod gets the less people will try it.
Good luck to all those that play around with this stuff!
I'm heading out to a local hobby lobby near me and see if i can find it.
Oh and for a good small hole punch....if you have an old telescoping antenna off of something around just cut the segment size you need and file it sharp.
This is to funny. You know what stuff I was trying out? Silly Puddy. LOL! It works as well. But this looks better. I will wait to see your results first. Silly Puddy works and is way cheaper and just as easy to mold and can be picked up in most stores where there are toys!
But this looks better. I will wait to see your results first. Silly Puddy works and is way cheaper and just as easy to mold and can be picked up in most stores where there are toys!
The fact that it's silicone, and food grade, does relieve a lot of my nervousness re long-term use; silicone is what I would consider the current gold-standard for safety, given the studies that went into silicone after the whole breast implant fiasco a decade or more ago now. But the fact it requires "mixing" suggests to me that there's some sort of chemical reaction that occurs when you mix the white and yellow goop together - and chemical reactions are almost never "perfect" - there's almost always some reactant left over.
Would have thought that too, but looking at the msds, this becomes as inert as regular silicone when cured...I am sure during the curing process you might have issues, but it cures in like 20 minutes...
I feel a lot better about this product now that I got to look at the MSDS.
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