Eciggity is based out of Hawaii. That's just where they asked me to upload my video to. They haven't replied back yet. Yeah the coil is toast. It got so warm that eliquid or moisture started coming out.
Smok XPro M80 Plus - new version, v6 firmware: temperature control testing results
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Well they just emailed me a shipping return label. Not sure how this works. But I guess they want it back.
I just need to box it up and send it, once they get confirmation that the post office is tracking it, they will send me a new one. I'm actually surprised they are doing this still after a month of owning it. Anyhow sorry to take over the thread. Back to m80 talk lol
I just need to box it up and send it, once they get confirmation that the post office is tracking it, they will send me a new one. I'm actually surprised they are doing this still after a month of owning it. Anyhow sorry to take over the thread. Back to m80 talk lol
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I'm enjoying mine quite thoroughly. I just got my Subtank Mini and built a .59Ω coil in it. Coil looks good, I think my wicking is alright, but I made the mistake of not screwing on the top cap before I put the base back on the tank, and spilled juice everywhere. I cleaned it all up, but when I put the tank back together and took my first couple of drags, I got some popping noises(which I'm going to guess is normal). The vapor was also really hot at 30.4W, and I got either some condensation or some juice in my mouthpiece. I turned it down to about 25W, thinking 30W was too high a setting, but that didn't help much either. The hits were hot, I felt like I was getting a bit of spitback, and I got a bit nauseous. I think part of it is the base not being completely dry and part of it is the juice being either too high a nicotine level, not steeped long enough, or both. I'm still new at this game, so I have no idea how to describe what's going on, and no idea what is actually going on. The M80 has been working great though. Battery lasted me about four days before I finally had to charge it today.
Glad you're enjoying it. Leaking tanks is a very common newbie problem - I posted about my fun experiences with that a page or so ago!
Be aware that the RBA deck of the Subtank Mini has tiny juice holes. It's therefore very common to have problems with dry hits when using it. Basically, juice can't get into your wick fast enough; especially a problem if you chain vape.
Watch the following Rip Trippers video, it describes the "Pancake Coil" for RTAs (rebuildable tanks, like the ST mini when using the RBA deck), whereby you use quite a lot less cotton than you'd expect, so the juice has room to flow in.
Note that the video assumes you're using high-VG juice, like 50/50, 60% VG, or higher. If you're using 60+% PG juice, then it's already quite runny and you can use more more cotton. In the video he talks about different amounts of VG, and how he uses less cotton the higher the VG. So you can adjust your length according to that chart, but following the same general principle. Me I use 50/50 juice, so I put in an extra 1mm of cotton each side than he showed when doing my ST Mini RBA build.
In general with the ST mini RBA: you don't want to have too much cotton, and you musn't bunch it all up tight, because that restricts the easy passage of the juice through it.
Be aware that the RBA deck of the Subtank Mini has tiny juice holes. It's therefore very common to have problems with dry hits when using it. Basically, juice can't get into your wick fast enough; especially a problem if you chain vape.
Watch the following Rip Trippers video, it describes the "Pancake Coil" for RTAs (rebuildable tanks, like the ST mini when using the RBA deck), whereby you use quite a lot less cotton than you'd expect, so the juice has room to flow in.
Note that the video assumes you're using high-VG juice, like 50/50, 60% VG, or higher. If you're using 60+% PG juice, then it's already quite runny and you can use more more cotton. In the video he talks about different amounts of VG, and how he uses less cotton the higher the VG. So you can adjust your length according to that chart, but following the same general principle. Me I use 50/50 juice, so I put in an extra 1mm of cotton each side than he showed when doing my ST Mini RBA build.
In general with the ST mini RBA: you don't want to have too much cotton, and you musn't bunch it all up tight, because that restricts the easy passage of the juice through it.
My first subtank mini I bought the channels were half way through, my newest has the channels opened all the way up. Still you're not gonna get much over 30w.
Guess I shouldn't say that. I'm actually quite impressed with the bigger channels on the newer rba. I've got the m80 up to 40w and its actually vaping really good. Starts getting quite a bit warmer though.
I think I'm done with both my goblin tanks unless I can fix the leaking fill screws. Not worth ruining my mods. Its just a big pita.
Guess I shouldn't say that. I'm actually quite impressed with the bigger channels on the newer rba. I've got the m80 up to 40w and its actually vaping really good. Starts getting quite a bit warmer though.
I think I'm done with both my goblin tanks unless I can fix the leaking fill screws. Not worth ruining my mods. Its just a big pita.
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Although this may not be "true" temperature control, does anyone else think that the way the m80 handles stepping down wattage is great for kanthal builds? I'm not a huge fan of ni200 wire so putting this into temperature control mode with a kanthal build and having the wattage step down gradually is something that no other mod does and really helps conserve juice and stop dry hits. It's actually a huge advantage for kanthal builds so I'm pretty happy with the mod.
And on a side note, does anyone else have a problem with the mod not charging past 60% with a USB output of less than 2 amps? For example, plugging it into a usb wall adapter with 1amp output stops the charging at 60% (same with charging from a computer or tablet, etc).
And on a side note, does anyone else have a problem with the mod not charging past 60% with a USB output of less than 2 amps? For example, plugging it into a usb wall adapter with 1amp output stops the charging at 60% (same with charging from a computer or tablet, etc).
It's certainly unique, and better than not having that at all. I have to admit I've really not tried it to any great extent, yet. I keep meaning to give it a go to see how it might improve things. I will at some point.
No, I'm afraid I definitely don't have that problem, nor heard it from anyone else.
I'm charging exclusively @ 2A at the moment, because the only charger I have that's higher than that does 2.5A and I didn't want to try that one. But I do mean to get a 2A charger because the ability to charge at 2A is one feature that sets the M80 aside from other internal-battery mods.
I do have a different battery charging problem, described earlier in this thread: when charging I see multiple "Charge %" figures, usually 6% apart, suggesting the two batteries are not equally charged. Or that's more likely a problem with the batteries themselves, or perhaps the main board (draining one slightly more than the others, or having done that once at least.)
But so far that has had no noticeable impact on my usage of the device; it's possible it's causing it to say "Weak battery" a few % earlier than it should, but I have no way of verifying that.
On that note - when you guys get the "weak battery" message due to being out of battery, and then put it on to charge, have you noticed what the first "Charge %" is that appears on screen? I.e. can you remember how low it's taking the batteries before it won't fire any more?
I drained mine today and when I put it on charge, it showed 11% and then 5% - that being my strange charging symptom, seeming to indicate that one battery is less charged than the other. You guys will surely see a single % figure, as rowsley said he does: do you recall what it is, or can you check next time you charge from "weak battery" ?
When I got my first "Weak Battery" message, I plugged it in and it was at 17%. It charged one % at a time, though. But that was just the first time I charged it, so I guess we'll see when I charge it next. Should be in a day or two, lol.
I do have one slight problem though: I have already started to wear the plating off of the 510 connection pin. I don't know how, but there is a little ring of silverishness on the outside of the pin. I think it's because of the Subtank. 
Do not tighten any tank or atty down too hard - tighten it enough such that it shows the resistance you expect (ideally confirm this with a separate ohms reader), but no further. The 510 on the Smok is very tight, so it's easy to over-tighten. I did find mine seemed to get a little easier over time, but it's still always far tighter than the iStick 50W (which has a dream of a 510 connection - I can place an atty in there and literally spin it with my finger, then one small further turn to tighten.)
And give your 510 a quick clean, you don't want any tiny scraps of coating floating around in there. They're probably gone already, but check carefully.
And give your 510 a quick clean, you don't want any tiny scraps of coating floating around in there. They're probably gone already, but check carefully.
So just curious, has the temp control feature on the xpro m80 plus been fixed yet?
I just let my battery go to the point where I pushed the fire button it wouldn't fire, and a message said weak battery. Plugged it in and it showed 15% for me.
In a matter of about 20 minutes of being plugged in and charging its already showing 56%. Seems now at this point it does more of a slower charge.
Regarding battery life, mine lasted only a day. Heavy Vaper here.
But Vaped it only at 17-21 Watts max. on a Lemo prebuilt 1,0 Ohm and a Delta 2 at 0,5 prebuilt coil.
Now after 3 weeks it is broken, shows on the screen: No Atomizer
yep, builts work on another device
I wouldn't recommend it a friend had his for almost 2 weeks before it died on him. And another Youtuber called DJLsb Vapes (i think) had his fourth reviewed device died after some use.
here the link to the tube: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QegRLjcjKkM
I hate rma and waiting times.
But Vaped it only at 17-21 Watts max. on a Lemo prebuilt 1,0 Ohm and a Delta 2 at 0,5 prebuilt coil.
Now after 3 weeks it is broken, shows on the screen: No Atomizer
yep, builts work on another device
I wouldn't recommend it a friend had his for almost 2 weeks before it died on him. And another Youtuber called DJLsb Vapes (i think) had his fourth reviewed device died after some use.
here the link to the tube: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QegRLjcjKkM
I hate rma and waiting times.
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Oh no, I'm sorry that yours is dead!
And wow, I didn't know DJLbs fourth M80 had died as well
I watched his first two videos, on firmware 0004 and 0005, when his first two devices died. Then I thought after he got a third one, it was OK.Wow, that really sucks! He does tend to really hit them hard, though - like doing stress tests and stuff. But of course they still should not die.
Oh well, mine is still working OK at the moment, I will just hope! But yes you are right that they are not to be recommended for purchase for anyone who doesn't already have one.
I've only had it three weeks, of course! So I might not have much time left..
Will you send yours back to your vendor for a replacement? Have you contacted them?
Ah that IM chat that DJlbs has with the Smok customer service person, in that video, is very interesting
They claim that the reason the Smok burns cotton is because it only goes down to 6W, where the DNA40 can go down to 0W.
So they are still claiming that the Smok does have real temp control, in other words it reads resistance and adjusts, it is just that it can't go lower than 6W hence it can't work with completely dry cotton. They claim it can help up to a point - where the wick is drying out - but not when it is completely dry.
I still think that must be wrong, and if so would make it a complete lie.
Because if that's true, how can it do anything with Kanthal? Why does it fire similar wattage ranges with a Kanthal coil as it does a Nickel coil?
Unless they are claiming it does read resistance live with Nickel, adjusting the watts intelligently there, but in Kanthal it's pre-programmed? I would be highly sceptical of that! Especially as the M80 does not have anything like the "New Coil" question that the DNA 40 asks to be sure it is measuring temperature correctly, or the base resistance setting that Yihi use for a similar purpose.
I really need to do those tests I was planning. I kind of lost interest because we all assumed it was just pre-programmed. But I think it would be worthwhile to do, if only to catch Smok out in a direct lie.
I'll see what I can do tonight. (Hope I don't kill my M80 )
They claim that the reason the Smok burns cotton is because it only goes down to 6W, where the DNA40 can go down to 0W.
So they are still claiming that the Smok does have real temp control, in other words it reads resistance and adjusts, it is just that it can't go lower than 6W hence it can't work with completely dry cotton. They claim it can help up to a point - where the wick is drying out - but not when it is completely dry.
I still think that must be wrong, and if so would make it a complete lie.
Because if that's true, how can it do anything with Kanthal? Why does it fire similar wattage ranges with a Kanthal coil as it does a Nickel coil?
Unless they are claiming it does read resistance live with Nickel, adjusting the watts intelligently there, but in Kanthal it's pre-programmed? I would be highly sceptical of that! Especially as the M80 does not have anything like the "New Coil" question that the DNA 40 asks to be sure it is measuring temperature correctly, or the base resistance setting that Yihi use for a similar purpose.
I really need to do those tests I was planning. I kind of lost interest because we all assumed it was just pre-programmed. But I think it would be worthwhile to do, if only to catch Smok out in a direct lie.
I'll see what I can do tonight. (Hope I don't kill my M80
)
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I just received mine today . As far as I can tell the idea behind the temp control seems yo work for me . It won't let me get a dry hit ..so far anyway . I've been chugging on a .29 ohm dual micro on my goblin and haven't got a dry hit on super long pulls at 35 watts. I just got it tho only time will tell . Resistance reading is spot on tho . One of my casing screws was sitting out on top of the mod in the box which was weird . The buttons rattle a bit which kinda sucks and my gold color looks more like peach . Hopefully someone makes wraps for these !!
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