W0W... Way to kick em in the nuts, while their wallets are being emptied by those greedy designers!
LOLz, Jim
SvoёMesto KAYFUN 4
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W0W... Way to kick em in the nuts, while their wallets are being emptied by those greedy designers!
LOLz, Jim
I almost did that with an extra Copper 510 screw I had laying around, but it won't work with the S-kit. (It would work just fine with the original Center Post) It would probably be best if it made contact with the larger flat surface of the "UC Control Nut" and not the relitively small diameter of the 510 pin. You would have to grind the head a little thicker because the 510 screw in the K4 doesn't protrude through nut. (Well, on mine it doesn't)
Gooooooooooo Zemgus Girgensons for the NHL All-Star Team!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Sorry, couldn't help it, but if you are from Latvia I am sure you know he plays for my Buffalo Sabres. My favorite player on the team and he's quite the stud. Glad to see Latvia creating such nice products as well
Hey Floyd, yes, I am a Latvian and I know about Zemgus. And he's not the only one from LV over the pond, I think.Gooooooooooo Zemgus Girgensons for the NHL All-Star Team!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Sorry, couldn't help it, but if you are from Latvia I am sure you know he plays for my Buffalo Sabres. My favorite player on the team and he's quite the stud. Glad to see Latvia creating such nice products as well
And he plays in our National team too.
Glad we could help
R
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So if anyone is interested in the voltage drop numbers taken from with the spring and with the sleeve here they are, as well as a picture of my crude little sleeve next to the spring.
Here is my voltage numbers measured off the screws that secure the coil with the spring installed and with the spring removed and the sleeve installed.
This was 2 second "hits" repeated numerous times adding a drop of juice to the coil when switching from spring to sleeve. I thought it hit way harder with the sleeve installed and these voltage numbers confirm it.
They are:
With the spring it ramps up to 1.54 volts and quickly settles to .80 volts.
With the sleeve it ramps up to 1.62 volts and quickly settles to 1.41 volts.
There it is folks.
Here is my voltage numbers measured off the screws that secure the coil with the spring installed and with the spring removed and the sleeve installed.
This was 2 second "hits" repeated numerous times adding a drop of juice to the coil when switching from spring to sleeve. I thought it hit way harder with the sleeve installed and these voltage numbers confirm it.
They are:
With the spring it ramps up to 1.54 volts and quickly settles to .80 volts.
With the sleeve it ramps up to 1.62 volts and quickly settles to 1.41 volts.
There it is folks.
Sure do hope so.
Sent with no malice and not a whole lot of forethought from my new Galaxy Tab 4. Thanks Santa!
Not a verified member so I can't shop the classifieds.
Sent with no malice and not a whole lot of forethought from my new Galaxy Tab 4. Thanks Santa!
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Am I the only one that's having a hard time remembering to close the juice control when I pop the top to fill the tank?
I decided to reinstall the spring, along with my new brass bushing, so I can close the juice control and vape the chamber clear. Without it, there's no continuity with the juice control closed...so now I'll probably forget to re-open it after a refill
I still am unable to get my head wrapped around how you can have both the spring and the bushing installed at the same time unless of coarse the spring will fill inside the bushing or the bushing will fit inside the spring.
All I did was take some copper pipe with an inner diameter slightly larger than the spring... Bought from ace hardware... Made section that would make connection when juice control is open but the spring then takes over when the control is closing... Very stable connection tonight... Took me 15 minutes tops
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Unfortunately the only way I see it getting fixed is to redesign the juice control as it is today.... Remember the deck adjusts with the juice control meaning something has to transfer the voltage - a spring.
I personally don't like all of the "connection" points this devices has so will not use it for NI200 builds. Every time the path from the battery to the coils makes a connection it is a source of failure (add in moisture and it is amplified). On a KFL there are only one to two of these types of connection points - on the KF4 I see FIVE.
On a kanthal build it works like a champ.
I built my 2d board that Evolv replaced into a Hana "style" box, runs my K4 (no spring) just like the other two mods, all 3 say 0.11Ω.
This ones for a friend.
This ones for a friend.
I don't see why they can't drop the spring and drop the ability to vape while juice control is completely closed. Their marketing was always that juice control is for refilling. So do it that way and forget about being able to vape with juice closed.
After filling I'm nowadays giving it just a half clockwise rotation, i.e. JC isn't completely open. Seems to conserve juice! Feeds fine, vapes fine ~ and now that 30% excessive consumption is cut down to just about 10-15%.
Ps.: I'm shoving in a little less wicking material as well.
Ps.: I'm shoving in a little less wicking material as well.
Conserving juice means either less vapor or less gunking. I hope it's the second for you
Conserving juice means either less vapor or less gunking. I hope it's the second for you
No noticeable change/reduction in vapour. VTF remains the same.
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