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BNEAT

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Have you posted a pic of your trimmed 100 VG wick tails? I would be interested in seeing exactly how it looks after you've trimmed them.
Not yet. I have to leave now, I'll post some later

How many turns to close and then how many turns to open the JC?

About 2 1/4 turns, so everything seems to be working properly, and every o'ring is is in good condition and accounted for
 

dems86

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Not yet. I have to leave now, I'll post some later



About 2 1/4 turns, so everything seems to be working properly, and every o'ring is is in good condition and accounted for
Hey buddy, that was for the Q man, I want to see wicks that work

In all seriousness though, I do want to see how you are wicking yours, as I'm definitely curious. Although I think we both might be curious what Q man's wicks look like.
 

qorax

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Have you posted a pic of your trimmed 100 VG wick tails? I would be interested in seeing exactly how it looks after you've trimmed them.

I didn't take pics of it for my K4 (thought everyone knew how to already), but here's how it looks on the Erlk. I did the same for my K4:

2e4b1oo.jpg


2dhte75.jpg


Successful trimming process of wicks for running 100%VG thru K4.
 

dems86

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I didn't take pics of it for my K4 (thought everyone knew how to already), but here's how it looks on the Erlk. I did the same for my K4:

2e4b1oo.jpg


2dhte75.jpg


Successful trimming process of wicks for running 100%VG thru K4.
You trim your wicks like I like my women..with large 80s style shoulder pads.

Thanks for the pics, I lack imagination. Although I have trimmed wicks somewhat similar to this on my Orchid for the juice channels.
 
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qorax

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Your trim your wicks like I like my women..with large 80s style shoulder pads.

Thanks for the pics, I lack imagination. Although I have trimmed wicks somewhat similar to this on my Orchid for the juice channels.

Lately I am maintaining "puffed up shoulders" on all my RTAs ~ as a general practice. Helps as a reservoir of juice for smooth/continuous feeding into the coil, as well as negates leaking thru the centre hole of the deck, imho.
 

dems86

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Lately I am maintaining "puffed up shoulders" on all my RTAs ~ as a general practice. Helps as a reservoir of juice for smooth/continuous feeding into the coil, as well as negates leaking thru the centre hole of the deck, imho.
Nice, that makes sense. Planning on rebuilding the K4 after work, definitely going to give this method the old college try.

Perhaps while I watch a few episodes of Designing Women
 

BNEAT

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I didn't take pics of it for my K4 (thought everyone knew how to already), but here's how it looks on the Erlk. I did the same for my K4:

2e4b1oo.jpg


2dhte75.jpg


Successful trimming process of wicks for running 100%VG thru K4.

I trim mine exactly like that. But I've tried bow-tie, thinned on the bottom, thinned on the sides, touching the deck and covering the juice holes, touching the deck but leaving the holes exposed, not touching the deck at all, plastered against the posts, plastered against the chamber walls, I've tried pretty much everything except not trimming at all and stuffing the chamber full!...but I'm willing to give that a shot if it works
 

Kaoself

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Try a thinner juice with the S kit and the stock centre post to a mouth hit tightness with your 100% vg first to see how those changes go. Then you'll know if it is just not enough of a pressure change to properly wick 100%vg.
Is your wick pushed down a lot when you break it down for a re wick / re build? As has been posted earlier, if your coil is too high then the sides of your evaporation chamber may push the wick down too much over the juice inlet holes when closing juice control, thus blocking juice flow when open.
 

raitizz

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Lately I am maintaining "puffed up shoulders" on all my RTAs ~ as a general practice. Helps as a reservoir of juice for smooth/continuous feeding into the coil, as well as negates leaking thru the centre hole of the deck, imho.

Qorax, the rayon arrived today! Thanks again. Will try this later, with the rayon.

I trim mine exactly like that. But I've tried bow-tie, thinned on the bottom, thinned on the sides, touching the deck and covering the juice holes, touching the deck but leaving the holes exposed, not touching the deck at all, plastered against the posts, plastered against the chamber walls, I've tried pretty much everything except not trimming at all and stuffing the chamber full!...but I'm willing to give that a shot if it works

I do KGD short bow-ties, no thinning, tucked down and a bit away from the chimney walls, touching the holes at the bottom I guess...
Captivape Banana Cream Pie Max VG. Works.

IMG_0037.jpgIMG_0038.jpgIMG_0040.jpg

R
 

dems86

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Vape mail day

rDNA40 Mail Received (dt. Jan 13, 2015):

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fk1rv9.jpg
Two things.

You got the new jitterbug screen on your VS...I'm jealous as mine is from their launch day shipments, no big chunky numbers for me

Two, and more importantly, what is that lovely drip tip you are running?
 

BNEAT

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Try a thinner juice with the S kit and the stock centre post to a mouth hit tightness with your 100% vg first to see how those changes go. Then you'll know if it is just not enough of a pressure change to properly wick 100%vg.
Is your wick pushed down a lot when you break it down for a re wick / re build? As has been posted earlier, if your coil is too high then the sides of your evaporation chamber may push the wick down too much over the juice inlet holes when closing juice control, thus blocking juice flow when open.

I believe I was the one that posted that. I had a 3.2mm coil mounted too high because the Center Post protruded through the Positive Block. (I shortened the Center Post so that it's flush with the Positive Block) Currently I have a 3mm coil that sits exactly halfway out of the chamber, so now the wicks do not interfere with the Evaporation Chamber.

I would try 3mm coil for 100% VG if you have to use the S kit.

I've tried 3.5mm, but it was just so much wick to deal with.
 
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