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BNEAT

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I've read this entire thread since its inception with great interest, and finally received my KF4. After having a problem similar to one described weeks ago wherein my kayfun 4 locked up, and I fixed it using the freezer trick, now I'm having another small issue that I thought someone here might be able to advise my on.

When I open up JC all the way, the unit looks flush. However, when I close the JC, a gap shows up just under the airflow ring, between the ring and the base. I'm also seeing tiny amounts of juice seeping into this gap, most noticeable when I open the JC back up (and the gap then closes).

Any idea what I might have done wrong to cause this? It seems like other peoples' units have no gaps or visible difference between the JC s open or closed.

Since anything that moves (lifts or depresses) while the JC is under rotation is internal and nothing changes on the external facade - there's absolutely no reason why there should be a gap under the ring and the base connector.

I think the key to this question is what you're calling a gap. There will be a small gap when you close the JC, it should be roughly .1mm (about the thickness of a piece of paper) Juice could leak from there if the Bottom Section floods badly enough. Of course, juice seems to leak from everywhere after a bad flood: the air holes, the 510, my mod, my phone, the steering wheel in my car :facepalm:
 

Kaoself

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Interesting point, Bronze. I've been getting dry hits the last couple of re wicks, and thinking that it was possibly the height of my 3mm coil and the wicks being pushed down onto the juice holes, I've cut the KGD shorter. Maybe I'll try and increase the wick lengths by some 3-4mm per side.
 

Bronze

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Interesting point, Bronze. I've been getting dry hits the last couple of re wicks, and thinking that it was possibly the height of my 3mm coil and the wicks being pushed down onto the juice holes, I've cut the KGD shorter. Maybe I'll try and increase the wick lengths by some 3-4mm per side.

And also the thickness of your wick. It should drag through your coil. Not to the point where it is ripping it off the deck but you should feel some drag as you thread your wick through the coil. And yes, it has to be long enough to reach the deck.
 

BNEAT

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BNEAT, I don't know if this applies to the K4, but with KFL's, many people make the mistake of using less cotton in their builds when they get dry hits. The fact is, they are going in the opposite direction. they should be using more cotton, not less.

I sure hope that's the case, because that's exactly what I've been doing. Re-wicking now, so if I don't post again you'll know it worked but I was too embarrassed to show my face:oops:
 

Bronze

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I sure hope that's the case, because that's exactly what I've been doing. Re-wicking now, so if I don't post again you'll know it worked but I was too embarrassed to show my face:oops:

Well, I'm kind of speaking out of place because I do not own a K4. I'm just going by what I know about KFLs (I've owned KFLs for a long time). I'm making the assumption there are similarities in how they wick but that doesn't mean I'm right. :)
 

qorax

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I sure hope that's the case, because that's exactly what I've been doing. Re-wicking now, so if I don't post again you'll know it worked but I was too embarrassed to show my face :oops:

Hehe, let me show mine then ;)

f4lcw0.jpg


Early morning upon waking up today!
 

dems86

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I tried more wick, but it still wouldn't keep up

058063wick2.jpg


I enlarged the juice holes from 1.2mm to 1.6mm and it seems to be keeping up fine with the exact same coil and wick. No floods yet, but it's probably too soon to tell. I hope I didn't ruin my $192 atty :cry:

063juiceholes.jpg


063juiceholes2.jpg


063juiceholes3.jpg
Did you slightly enlarge the top of the screw holes on a post? It looks like they were milled slightly, or is it just juice or reflection/light
 

BNEAT

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Did you slightly enlarge the top of the screw holes on a post? It looks like they were milled slightly

Sorta: I use a countersink on all of my post holes to make it easier to capture the wire. Instead of pushing the wire out from under the screw head, it tends to pull it in toward the screw.
 

RickCain

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I tried more wick, but it still wouldn't keep up

058063wick2.jpg


I enlarged the juice holes from 1.2mm to 1.6mm and it seems to be keeping up fine with the exact same coil and wick. No floods yet, but it's probably too soon to tell. I hope I didn't ruin my $192 atty :cry:

063juiceholes.jpg


063juiceholes2.jpg


063juiceholes3.jpg

Well done, I think you are in the right track. Higher VG means thicker juice so opening the holes should yield the right result. Will you off this as a service? :)

I gave up on vaping cereal killa on my KF4 due to the high VG. Seems like anything >80% VG works well. Even though a vendor will say "high VG" they still use PG based flavor which deluged it down (typically 5-20% flavor to the base).
 
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MattB101

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Sorta: I use a countersink on all of my post holes to make it easier to capture the wire. Instead of pushing the wire out from under the screw head, it tends to pull it in toward the screw.

That's a great idea, just a slight countersink I take it?

Sent with no malice and not a whole lot of forethought from my new Galaxy Tab 4. Thanks Santa!
 

Mtek

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Sorta: I use a countersink on all of my post holes to make it easier to capture the wire. Instead of pushing the wire out from under the screw head, it tends to pull it in toward the screw.

Your work looks very good. I am curious if you use 50/50 liquid too though. The V4 wicks that with ease and I'm wondering if you will get flooding now with it. Ofcourse it doesn't matter if you are only using VG. Hope it works out for you.
 
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