SvoёMesto KAYFUN 4

[Moonbogg]

Yea, it does seem like most people do not have this issue. I will say though, that the ProVape connection seems consistent. I've now tried my KF4 P3 adapter on four different Provaris (2 P3, 1 P3 Beta, and 1 Ti Mini). Same gap on all of them.

Doh

 

[Bronze]

That is a 3D render mate.

Indeed it is.

 

[jchisholm]

No I've already said this in another post. I never believed SvoeMesto meant the KF4 to be used without the juice control completely open. The physics/engineering of the Kayfun has always been a fully open juice channel, why would they change it now? it's only there so that you can top fill the tank.

Yea but do you *really* need to close it to fill your tank?
I have my airflow screw protruding and the 510 torqued down tight to I can maintain .13 ohm for my nickel build. This jams up the juice ring so I don't bother
closing it when refilling.
Not a problem yet!

 

[Junny89]

Yea but do you *really* need to close it to fill your tank?
I have my airflow screw protruding and the 510 torqued down tight to I can maintain .13 ohm for my nickel build. This jams up the juice ring so I don't bother
closing it when refilling.
Not a problem yet!

Mine leaks if i fill with out closing JC. Floods in the coil.

 

[raitizz]

Never tried filling with JC open. Why. It's there for a reason

R

*via Tapatalk

 

[Junny89]

Never tried filling with JC open. Why. It's there for a reason

R

*via Tapatalk

I've done it accidentally when i rebuild a coil and put it back together, i just forget at times to close it. That's all. Floods it all.

 

[macpeace]

Damn JC keeps seizing up on me, so I decided to take apart and discovered the screw at the bottom of the P3 adapter was loose so I tightened it. Put everything back together, made a build and fired the coil so i could tweezer it. Nothing happened. Then I realized I forgot to put the spring back in. Now my Provari 3 is jacked with an OP error. This damn Kayfun 4 and adapter will be the death of me.

 

[Junny89]

Damn JC keeps seizing up on me, so I decided to take apart and discovered the screw at the bottom of the P3 adapter was loose so I tightened it. Put everything back together, made a build and fired the coil so i could tweezer it. Nothing happened. Then I realized I forgot to put the spring back in. Now my Provari 3 is jacked with an OP error. This damn Kayfun 4 and adapter will be the death of me.

Tried taking the battery out?


Sent from my Passport using Tapatalk

 

[raitizz]

I forgot to open it afterwards once. Couldn't understand what's happening after a few draws

R

*via Tapatalk

 

[raitizz]

Damn JC keeps seizing up on me, so I decided to take apart and discovered the screw at the bottom of the P3 adapter was loose so I tightened it. Put everything back together, made a build and fired the coil so i could tweezer it. Nothing happened. Then I realized I forgot to put the spring back in. Now my Provari 3 is jacked with an OP error. This damn Kayfun 4 and adapter will be the death of me.

Does the screw eat away your P3 pin?

R

*via Tapatalk

 

[macpeace]

Yes it does. The red oring came off my P3 and I think it was due to this adapter. It never screws down smoothly towards the final turns. I had to send my P3 in for warranty repair. Then I get it back and this happens. Likely caused by either firing without the spring, or over tightening the K4 trying to get it to seat on the P3. What a PITA. Get this nice equipment to have a good experience, and I keep having issues. Once I get the P3 working again, I will be going back to the 510 connection.

 

[BNEAT]

Heres a link to the real pix on their site...

Kayfun V4 -P3 Connector - Kayfun V4

As far as 40 years? Do we really need to go there? Common Sense rules the day here, along with some observation and logic.

So you see where you were wrong about that being a computer generated image, even after you insisted. But you can't possibly be wrong about Provape's top cap with only 3 threads cut in it?

Here's that picture again showing their 3 threads. But keep in mind, when you machine threads the way they machined those, at least the last half thread is tapered and unusable. (the lathe is spinning at at least 1,000 rpms and even the best CNCs cannot disengage the cutter fast enough to produce a good thread at the bottom of a hole, or against a shoulder, which is exactly the reason Aspire and Svoemesto machined their threads with an undercut) So this means that the maximum thread engagement can only be 2.5 threads, period. You can take that picture to whichever Aerospace tool shop you'd like and have them confirm what I'm telling you. Provape produced a connection that has, at best, 2.5 threads. Does YOUR common sense still tell you that this is a good design?

With the P3 female threading being cut into the top cap there's no where for the SM male threads to go if they're too deep.

 

[rcbell.N51]

So you see where you were wrong about that being a computer generated image, even after you insisted. But you can't possibly be wrong about Provape's top cap with only 3 threads cut in it?

Here's that picture again showing their 3 threads. But keep in mind, when you machine threads the way they machined those, at least the last half thread is tapered and unusable. (the lathe is spinning at at least 1,000 rpms and even the best CNCs cannot disengage the cutter fast enough to produce a good thread at the bottom of a hole, or against a shoulder, which is exactly the reason Aspire and Svoemesto machined their threads with an undercut) So this means that the maximum thread engagement can only be 2.5 threads, period. You can take that picture to whichever Aerospace tool shop you'd like and have them confirm what I'm telling you. Provape produced a connection that has, at best, 2.5 threads. Does YOUR common sense still tell you that this is a good design?

I'm neither designer nor engineer, but being in the IT field my common sense tells me if I want to build a device that connects to an iPod/iPhone/iPad I better use Apples proprietary connection, and I better wire it correctly.

 

[raitizz]

So you see where you were wrong about that being a computer generated image, even after you insisted. But you can't possibly be wrong about Provape's top cap with only 3 threads cut in it?

Here's that picture again showing their 3 threads. But keep in mind, when you machine threads the way they machined those, at least the last half thread is tapered and unusable. (the lathe is spinning at at least 1,000 rpms and even the best CNCs cannot disengage the cutter fast enough to produce a good thread at the bottom of a hole, or against a shoulder, which is exactly the reason Aspire and Svoemesto machined their threads with an undercut) So this means that the maximum thread engagement can only be 2.5 threads, period. You can take that picture to whichever Aerospace tool shop you'd like and have them confirm what I'm telling you. Provape produced a connection that has, at best, 2.5 threads. Does YOUR common sense still tell you that this is a good design?

My SM P3 connector has 2.5 threads (see pictures in my posts). It works.
So..

R

*via Tapatalk

 

[BNEAT]

I'm neither designer nor engineer, but being in the IT field my common sense tells me if I want to build a device that connects to an iPod/iPhone/iPad I better use Apples proprietary connection, and I better wire it correctly.

Provape doesn't have a proprietary connection: they don't produce toppers for their devices. The only thing they make is an adapter, which totally defeats the purpose, and adds multiple pieces to the equation, including more electrical connections.

 

[rcbell.N51]

Provape doesn't have a proprietary connection: they don't produce toppers for their devices. The only thing they make is an adapter, which totally defeats the purpose, and adds multiple pieces to the equation, including more electrical connections.

Huh? The P3 connection is proprietary (at least I'm unaware of anyone else using the P3 connection). One of the adapters they make, that comes with the P3, is to adapt P3 to the 510 standard.

 

[Mtek]

Provape doesn't have a proprietary connection: they don't produce toppers for their devices. The only thing they make is an adapter, which totally defeats the purpose, and adds multiple pieces to the equation, including more electrical connections.

True, they don't make their own RTAs. I'll bet by next year many companies will make a Provari threaded option though. SM has made a base, but the V4 lite will have a stand alone Provari version. Speculative, but I think Provape will sell it on their site.

 

[AstroTurf]

So you see where you were wrong about that being a computer generated image, even after you insisted. But you can't possibly be wrong about Provape's top cap with only 3 threads cut in it?

Here's that picture again showing their 3 threads. But keep in mind, when you machine threads the way they machined those, at least the last half thread is tapered and unusable. (the lathe is spinning at at least 1,000 rpms and even the best CNCs cannot disengage the cutter fast enough to produce a good thread at the bottom of a hole, or against a shoulder, which is exactly the reason Aspire and Svoemesto machined their threads with an undercut) So this means that the maximum thread engagement can only be 2.5 threads, period. You can take that picture to whichever Aerospace tool shop you'd like and have them confirm what I'm telling you. Provape produced a connection that has, at best, 2.5 threads. Does YOUR common sense still tell you that this is a good design?

Yes, I love this design on ProVapes part.

It is the best thing since sliced bread!

Why? It is very simple. I use 510 threaded attys.

If the 510 threads get jacked up, I screws a brand new 510 adapter on.

No fuss, No muss.

I'll not be a Beta Boy for the P3 thread.

Perhaps though, You could shoot an email to both ProVape and Svoemesto.

 

[Eric in NJ]

My second v4 made it through customs in NY, should be here soon. I got two s4 kits so I can open them both up more. I've been using the one I have now without the screw in it to get the max air flow, but would like a little more. Anyone have any experience with the s4?

 

[ManWithNoName]

Anyone know where I can get parts 10 and 11 that are in stock?