SvoёMesto KAYFUN 4
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I believe that spring is used to facilitate the adjustable pin that the nautilus line utilities...Atlantis as well.
Is that update for the turd clones? I haven't had a problem with my authentic at all. I can open the juice flow and close it many times and the ohm's are always the same, even if I take it off and put it back on. On the paper weight Ehpro clone that thing just sucks at everything. Kanthal or Nickel are both all over the place with the readings.
I have a black Tobeco clone and it's working fine on my rDNA40. It's consistent and stable (screen and vape).
Cool.
Wonder why some have that problem...
R
Edit: No, I've read why some have that problem. Wonder why it works on yours
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Vaping postcard time
Hangsen e-juices
May not be top notch but things are available here. And as long as guys here are vaping ~ we are good√
Hangsen e-juices
May not be top notch but things are available here. And as long as guys here are vaping ~ we are good√
So we don't end up on this topic again...
We all basically agreed that we all use either clones, authentic, or both...and having been a major character in that conversation (both times), I'd like to be proactive in avoiding it this time.
I'm not trying to be an authority figure or point fingers, except maybe at myself.
-------------------------
Eric: While I realize we are all entitled to our opinions, I'd like to make the suggestion that we don't discriminate in either direction against clones or authentic devices, especially considering where this thread has traveled...more than once.
Ricks: I interpreted the Eric's statement as referring to the BAD clones, not ALL clones...just for a little perspective for you.
Cool.
Wonder why some have that problem...
R
Edit: No, I've read why some have that problem. Wonder why it works on yours
I don't think I'm alone on this one. The Tobeco (silver and black) have been reliable for the most part with only a few that had some issues. I have a silver one coming today (out for delivery). I also have a FT "A" (first one they were selling) and a FC version. The FT one had some issues, mainly with the #16 o-ring leaking. The FC version has a tight JC but easy work arounds and they all work great now. I had to do nothing to the Tobeco other than wash and build a coil.
Not so much poorly made as they forgot to put the flats on the top nut. They fixed it fairly quickly and sending replacement parts to anyone that wants it (thru their vendors). They do look good but it's almost 50% more than a Tobeco.
Agreed. My 3 Tobeco K4's were wash and use as well. Very little washing needed, I might add.
HD
The spring doesn't actuate anything. It maintains electrical connectivity throughout the mechanical range of the juice control valve's motion. The little extra part that 3rd party created allows the spring to do its original job while acting as a solid contact while juice control is all the way open, providing a solid path of current for stable and consistent resistance for nickel builds. Everyone knows this just by looking at the 3rd party component.
Or reading our previous discussion about that
R
P.S. What I meant is, we already went over this, why the jump on an answered post?
Vape on!
*via Tapatalk
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Huh, Well how do ya like that?!?
Thanks for the heads up.
Guess I'm part of the everybody group now.
Thumbs Up, Jim
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