Current is carried by a spring. Changes in the compression of the spring caused by opening or closing the juice control cause changes in resistance.
With the JC in a stable position - especially open - you should have no fluctuations in resistance.
SvoёMesto KAYFUN 4
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Current is carried by a spring. Changes in the compression of the spring caused by opening or closing the juice control cause changes in resistance.
With the JC in a stable position - especially open - you should have no fluctuations in resistance.
I use, respectively, vape my V4 only with JC open, in a stable position, and it happens then.
Maybe my builds are going haywire...
R
Edit: this is the unstable build, but I've had some fluctuations (some, not much) with others too. Seems like a standard build...
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In other news, I cleaned my V4 and damaged the glass tank.. chipped a small piece on the edge... Can't see it when assembled... Well, "love marks"
And maaan, Qorax's tip about the beeswax just works awesomely..
R
The integrity of the tank is compromised and it needs to be replaced. It could shatter in a minute with no discernable reason or last forever. Point is once chipped you don't know. Just my two cents.
Sent with no malice and not a whole lot of forethought from my new Galaxy Tab 4. Thanks Santa!
Thanks, but I doubt that. It's so tiny, now I don't even see it. And I don't overtighten my V4 at assembly.
Nevertheless, right after I noticed that, I decided it's time to try the Full Metal Jacket..
R
Disassemble your base and check that your #9 screw is not loose (refer to parts diagram).
I assume your 510 screw is tight and the insulator is OK.
Other than that, I have no idea.
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Thanks. The 9 was a bit loose. Soaking everything now, assembling in a bit.
510 is was tight, insulator OK.
R
What build is that? Looks like 26ga. I am on a new build of 26ga, 8 wraps for about 1.1ohms and i'm not sure if I like it. I have to go to 16+ watts to get it warm and it doesn't even produce much more vapor than a 28ga build at 12 watts. No diff in flavor either. I'm thinking of going back to 28ga. 28ga might actually have a little more flavor, but its hard to tell. Not sure it worth the loss in battery life.
That's 0.30mm, 2.5mm ID. At the moment all i have is 0.32mm and 0.30mm, and I'm gonna go back to 0.32mm. Just built 6wraps of 0.32mm 2.6mm ID. We'll se how that works out.. Experimenting here, a build a day or so.
R
Edit: that would be roughly 29ga and 28ga. We get the stuff in mm here.
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OMG Virus on this build @ 16watts is so good its stupid. It tastes like spices from heaven. Best vape I've ever had right now.
It has a loud, violent crackle with a perfect plume of thick vapor. Flavor is way the hell off the charts on this fresh rewick. I'm totally serious right now. There is no debate in my mind that this is the best vape I've ever had. Its so good, I want to tell the specifics so people can replicate it.
Provari P3
16 watts, boost 3
26ga, .097ID screw driver
8 wraps, came in at 1.1 to 1.2 ohms (was going for 1.0)
Micro coil
Nicoticket Virus about 1 week old (exp date 11/21/2015)
KGD cotton, outer layers stripped off, gently pressing on inside of coil.
K4 stock airflow all the way open, screw still inside (not removed)
It has a loud, violent crackle with a perfect plume of thick vapor. Flavor is way the hell off the charts on this fresh rewick. I'm totally serious right now. There is no debate in my mind that this is the best vape I've ever had. Its so good, I want to tell the specifics so people can replicate it.
Provari P3
16 watts, boost 3
26ga, .097ID screw driver
8 wraps, came in at 1.1 to 1.2 ohms (was going for 1.0)
Micro coil
Nicoticket Virus about 1 week old (exp date 11/21/2015)
KGD cotton, outer layers stripped off, gently pressing on inside of coil.
K4 stock airflow all the way open, screw still inside (not removed)
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Mine is running well with no dry hits at 0.63 ohms with a 28g parallel coil. I think some of the people running nickel coils are as low as 0.13ohms.
If you own a nemesis- don't be shy- spend the 15euro on their hybrid adapter...lol...
Custom Nemesis-Atmomixani Zodiac Switch-350 Black Tube- Brushed SS Lock Ring- Brass Hybrid Adapter-
Kayfun 4s- Smoke M-Tank- "Orchid V3" Top Cap....MLV DT
I'm loving the tinted tank, Orchid top cap and drip tip combination!
Is that the wide bore MLV?
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So what are you guys doing different?
Just curious. I'm holding back on the TC thing at the moment.
R
Nice pics Q until I saw the beach/waterSitting here in the cold USA and looking at the pic is a hard pill to swallow. LOL
Ah, I hear you Angie!
It's nice, cool and cozy here nonetheless ~ and some great backdrops to vape on
Just got notification- my AUTHENTIC Kayfun 4 has just shipped out. 
Now, I won't be happy if SvoeMesto makes some changes soon (that I've been reading around may happen) but at least I know I bougt the real deal this time from an authorized dealer!
Now, I won't be happy if SvoeMesto makes some changes soon (that I've been reading around may happen) but at least I know I bougt the real deal this time from an authorized dealer!
Actually, Evolv's Data Sheet states that Nickel builds should be between .10Ω and 1.0Ω with a typical build being .40Ω. My experience with my KF4 has been between .16Ω and .20Ω.
I don't understand. It worked fine on both of them from the first build. I take them completely apart to clean, reassemble, put a build on, fill and vape. Do that pretty much everyday after a tank is run through it, sometimes I may add a bit like an extra half of tank. I change flavors daily so I like to have a fresh vape after a good clean.
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