SXmini M Class (TEMP CONTROL)

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Vlad1

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I could hear the buzz if I put it close to my ear with the nickel builds, not at all with the Ti????? Can anyone else try this and I don't know if it's relevant but I thought I'd post it.

Anyone else that can hear it try using Ti to see if they still could? I would try but I don't have any Ti.
 

Highwayman1224

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Nice looking setup you have there in your avatar. Do you ride and what is it?
Thanks, yes I ride. It's a 2014 Harley Electra glide Ultra Classic. uploadfromtaptalk1429370740882.jpg
 

patioclark

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Soapy might be an indication of not enough heat. 290F is almost 100F below PG's vaporization point, and VG is even higher than that. Crank up the temp limit to 400+ and see what happens with the flavor, disregard the warmth.

What's your normal build on an Erl? Ohms and wattage and wire gauge? If you were high resistance, low wattage vaping before, it could take some time to get used to a warmer vape (and running an Erl at 400-450 is barely warm enough for some of us!)

Thanks Croak and I'll give it a try for sure. Was doing 29G kanthal at around 1.5 ohms at 10 Watts. My lower heat is with Ti, btw and I'll bring it up along with new nickel builds. I'm quite sure that there's a happy place to find and I'm a gonna get there. Cheers.
 

patioclark

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Anyone else that can hear it try using Ti to see if they still could? I would try but I don't have any Ti.

Okay I can hear a lighter buzz even with the Ti today. I can only hear it when holding the device close to my ear which makes actual vaping clumsy. I can't really hear it when vaping and can live with it but curious to see what we (and Yihi) comes up with.
 

2legsshrt

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This might be an over-simplification, but this is how I would explain it from a lay perspective: An inductor is a device that stores energy in a magnetic field based on the stable movement of current. When the current is not stable (e.g., it increases, decreases, reverses), the magnetic field seeks to resist that change. The greater the size of the change in current, the more the magnetic field seeks to resist that change and accordingly the greater the impact on the magnetic field. So when you're using PWM (as TC does) the more you increase the power, the greater that disturbance to the magnetic field is going to be, and it's the oscillation of the magnetic field that causes the wires in an inductor to audibly shake (assuming coil noise is the problem).

And also assuming it does use PWM in TC mode. That has not been really proven yet has it.
 

JimScotty0

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Thanks Croak and I'll give it a try for sure. Was doing 29G kanthal at around 1.5 ohms at 10 Watts. My lower heat is with Ti, btw and I'll bring it up along with new nickel builds. I'm quite sure that there's a happy place to find and I'm a gonna get there. Cheers.

Yihi designed the SX350J chip based on NI200 so all the temperature settings and design specs are based on that. I don't use TI, but from what I have been hearing the temperature settings are much lower if you use TI so even though it may say 290 on the display it isn't accurate when using TI. It may be more like 500 or so. Someone here may know the conversion or on a different forum where such things are discussed.
 

jhawk

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For those with the buzzing problem, go in and id your mod manufacturer date and lets compare which dates arent buzzing. Mines not buzzing at all. If its happening before and after this date its not a manufacturer problem unless 2 facilities are being used.

[h=1]Result of ID Verification[/h]
Factory time=2015-03-27 00:00:00
Verify Counter=3
Last Time=2015-04-18 11:15:58


http://www.yihisxminiid.com/index.htm
 
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Yozhik

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Was what I was thinking also... and the battery sag?

What about the battery sag? Not sure what you're asking. The battery sag indicator just seems to be based off the voltage of the Lithium-Ion battery. As it discharges, the voltage of the battery drops. The greater the current discharge or the less capacity there is left in the battery, the more the voltage likely drops due to the electrochemistry of the battery.
 

retird

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What about the battery sag? Not sure what you're asking. The battery sag indicator just seems to be based off the voltage of the Lithium-Ion battery. As it discharges, the voltage of the battery drops. The greater the current discharge or the less capacity there is left in the battery, the more the voltage likely drops due to the electrochemistry of the battery.

Just that I saw where the battery meter showed full and went to completely empty while firing...yep we know what battery sag is but was interested in your take on the battery meter going full empty...that's all
 

JimScotty0

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For those with the buzzing problem, go in and id your mod manufacturer date and lets compare which dates arent buzzing. Mines not buzzing at all. If its happening before and after this date its not a manufacturer problem unless 2 facilities are being used.

[h=1]Result of ID Verification[/h]
Factory time=2015-03-27 00:00:00
Verify Counter=3
Last Time=2015-04-18 11:15:58


ID Verification of YiHiEcigar's Production

Factory time=2015-03-28 00:00:00
 

JimScotty0

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Running the extension tube with 2 VCT5's, the amount of battery sag on mine is trivial in TP mode while firing.. Even when showing around 50% life left..

I would expect to see that also. Any sag would be based on the battery condition, how depleted the battery is, and how high a Joules setting you have it set at. I have seen even brand new batteries sag heavily with the pulsing in TC mode when at or around 50J. Change the Joules setting to around 20J or less and it is very minor.
 
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