Did you force the resistance reading by holding the up and down buttons on the m-class?
SXmini M Class (TEMP CONTROL)
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Did you force the resistance reading by holding the up and down buttons on the m-class?
Well I may wrong on the wraps.. Could be 8-9 I m not sure.. Or could be 0.14ohms.. And I was neglecting the 15 mins also.. But the VS tested out ok?
Anyhow will try the 15mins later and see how it works out..
Did a kanthal coil fire in J mode and the Dry Wick warning came on?!
Also how to force a resistance reading by pressing the up/down button? Never tried never did ...
Anyhow will try the 15mins later and see how it works out..
Did a kanthal coil fire in J mode and the Dry Wick warning came on?!
Also how to force a resistance reading by pressing the up/down button? Never tried never did ...
That might be your issue. The sx350j doesn't automatically read resistance like the dna40. When in joules mode you have to press the up and down button at the same time to make it read the resistance. I forgot one time and my nickel build fired bright red. I let it cool for about 10 min and forced the reading, tried to fire and got no glow only the dry wick message.
As far as I know, the sx needs to be manually calibrated with the atty. You can't just slap an atty on and hope it will work. Read the manual.
The dna based mods automatically set the base line or ask you about it (new coil, yes /no) and also have something called refinement mode which tries to improve the atty's base line resistance over time.
Regards
Tony
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Thanx guys
gettin late over here.. Will try again tmr Btw I always try to coil as big id as I can.. Sometimes it barely clears the posts.. Like bigger id makes for better wicking? Is it correct?
No disrespect intended Chia but you should read the manual. The SXmini is advertised for professional and high level vapors. You cant just throw anything on it and hope it works. You should have an understanding of what type of coil you have and what resistance it should be and if the device detects it correctly.
And while the DNA does do auto mode switching based on the coil I believe that was one of the thumbs down in Pbusardo's review. As he placed a 1.4Ω coil on it persisted in reading .69Ω if I recall correctly. Even after taking it off placing it onto another device and firing it. He placed it back onto the DNA and it still read it as .69Ω so it's not a good practice to just assume what your wraps / resistance is you should be in the know.
The SXmini M does not do auto mode switching and expects you to understand the resistance of your coil and set it in the device using the up / down buttons and then verify that the device detected the appropriate resistance.
I'm expecting my SX Mini M Class any minute, and can't wait!
As I don't have any nickel wire, and have never tried temperature control, I plan to go to my local B & M store and have them build my first TC build on my Squape R (could also use my Sub Tank Mini, but I'll probably use the Squape R)
Anyone care to share with me what resistance I should have them shoot for?
I believe that YiHi recommends .065, but that sounds very low! I understand resistance with nickel is different then kanthal, but I also read numerous posts where people are using a resistance of .1 or above.
Won't .065 kill my battery in record time? I like a warm vape, but don't really want it too warm, but I would like my battery to be able to get me through most of the day.
Suggestions?
Also, how long does your build last with TC? Seems that if the cotton isn't burning, the build should last for weeks... am I mistaken?
Thanks for all of the excellent info on this board/thread, and thanks in advance.
As I don't have any nickel wire, and have never tried temperature control, I plan to go to my local B & M store and have them build my first TC build on my Squape R (could also use my Sub Tank Mini, but I'll probably use the Squape R)
Anyone care to share with me what resistance I should have them shoot for?
I believe that YiHi recommends .065, but that sounds very low! I understand resistance with nickel is different then kanthal, but I also read numerous posts where people are using a resistance of .1 or above.
Won't .065 kill my battery in record time? I like a warm vape, but don't really want it too warm, but I would like my battery to be able to get me through most of the day.
Suggestions?
Also, how long does your build last with TC? Seems that if the cotton isn't burning, the build should last for weeks... am I mistaken?
Thanks for all of the excellent info on this board/thread, and thanks in advance.
Well my S class shows low battery at 21000J so sounds like same as the M. I think I heard 22000 from someone. Just a comparison. That is on a 2500MaH LG HE2
And therein lies your problem.
With the atty and mod at room temp hold the up/down buttons together: you will see a resistance measurement. Press the fire button to set that number as the resistance.
You' then GOLDEN.
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Can't sleep so did another build.. 30g 4/5 wraps? 0.154 ohms.. Manual set the resistance..
Wham! It all works! Taste like it should too!
I do admit at times I m too anxious to do a build and dumb enough to skip a proper read on the manual.. ;(
Thanx again guys..
Properly set up, a nickel coil can last a good while, but it all depends on the e-juice. My Magma's coil is still rock-solid, while the one I set up in the subtank rba was gunked after a week and tasting flat. The difference is that in the subtank I was using a custard-based e-juice, which can gunk up a coil pretty quickly. Maybe I could have tried burning the gunk off and re-wicking, but I ditched it in favor of trying out a nickel OCC coil with a different e-juice.
I would suggest you take a look at the "Ni Wire Temp Control builds..."(Protection) or whatever its call thread.
Its based on the DNA40 but we're talking Ni wire so its comparable.
I haven't plunged into my SX M yet but I can tell you that Ni wire is very much different from Kanthal: its softer and it will gunk if you use sweet juices.
More or less you cannot dry burn, or clean the coils and I tend to have to change out coils after 2 or 3 days of heavy vaping.
With Ni 28 or 30g I usually aim for .20 ohms which is about 10 wraps on a 2mm ID coil... (dna40)
Just to clarify. I said the dna would do this automatically. I never said it was a better or worse procedure than what the sx does.
Last thing I need is being labeled as a dna fanboy or similar.
I'm completely promiscuous. I will vape anything worth vaping
Regards
Tony
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Just to clarify. I said the dna would do this automatically. I never said it was a better or worse procedure than what the sx does.
Last thing I need is being labeled as a dna fanboy or similar.
I'm completely promiscuous. I will vape anything worth vaping
Regards
Tony
Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.
Sure, my point in stating that was mainly to emphasize "it's not a good practice to just assume what your wraps / resistance is you should be in the know."
About batteries - so...This is the first time I have used the VCT 4 - I have to say, I like the 25R much better. I got better mileage out of them compared to the VCT4 and I swear the SX preformed better? - better vapor/hits? Maybe it's just my perception and the fact I used the 25R on my mechs and had outstanding performance.
Thoughts?
btw - these are all new batteries RTD this week
Thoughts?
btw - these are all new batteries RTD this week
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I'm using 25r's in the SX, HE4's in the VS's, and VTC 4/5 in the VF. Just how I roll.
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I'm using 25r's in the SX, HE4's in the VS's, and VTC 4/5 in the VF. Just how I roll.
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Would I be called a heretic if I used a purple "35A" Efest in mine when it arrives Wednesday?
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How do you get .2 ohms with 10 wraps of 28 or 30 ga on a 2 mm ID? According to steam engine you need 12/13 wraps with 30 ga or 19/20 wraps with 28 ga. That's in line with my experience as well.
The VCT4 has less mAh and a higher rated output current of 30 amps. The 25R has a higher rated mAh and less rated output current of 20 amps.
Short story if you are using the 25R you will have a battery that is not rated for the current draw that that SX can ask for but if you are not asking more than 20 amps from it will last a little longer that the VTC4 but probably not hit as hard.
VTC4 2100 mAh and a max current of 30 Amps.
25R 2500 mAh and a max current of 20 Amps.
Now keep in mind that there is a lot of chatter about re-branded batteries. You may be using the battery that it is labeled as and maybe not.
I personally think that expectations can have a lot to do with perceived results.
I know not much help but if they are the real thing you thought you were buying my money says the VTC-4s should give you an overall better vape just not last quit as long.
Would I be called a heretic if I used a purple "35A" Efest in mine when it arrives Wednesday?
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Just my opinion based on limited experience and reports of inaccurate , inflated, specs and re-wraps:
I stay clear of Efest, period full-stop.
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