For those of you who like the 5ml tall tanks but don't like dual coil cartomizers, Ikenvape.com's mega 510 cartomizers (both resistances) work well in these. Also, same goes for Ikenvape.com's mega kr808d-1's.
Tank-O-Matic Liquinator v4.1
- Thread starter Wylie
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Yep, I used the drip tip to tighten it.....seems a simple adjustment on the tolerances of the tank could correct this.....and as you know the drip tip will spin inside the carto while using it to tighten.......only negative of this tank is the "spinning".....
I really hope they do not change anything about it. I think it is the best most user friendly tank available. Just sayin.
this tank contraption is really ruinous...going on over a month using this thing and am finding out that there is just no going back to just plain old cartomizers, ego-t's, maps, attys, ce2's or whatever.....no shill here for anyone or hype, for myself this device has set the new standard by which to judge others.....if something new comes out my question would be "how does it compare to the liquinator?"......honestly to those who have had a liquinator for a while, regardless the messed up carts that slipped through and besides fabricating something "similar" at a lot lower price, what is there available out there right now that compares with the liquinator's ease of use and steady consistent vape all the tank thru?
I'd love to sing it's praises but I still haven't received mine. And this supplier is closest to me geographically than any other supplier I've ever ordered from. 
And the answer is... yes! It works just great.
I punched an IKV Gold V2 510 cartomizer (two opposing holes) and it works like a charm. It's a lot easier than slotting them and requires no sawing. I used a hammer and a hole punch, but a nail would have worked. One benefit of punching (besides being easier) is there are no metal shavings, real or perceived. Another might be that it may be easier to make a jig for standardized punching.
Here it is:
The hole's size is exaggerated because of the dimple which surrounds the hole.
EDIT:
1. While my carto never did die, I thought I might if I couldn't try it.
2. If you do this yourself, you can put the hole about 1-2mm lower. The hole is a bit higher than I planned, but it doesn't affect function.
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Wylie, it is the way to go, I take my dremel and put a score in the carto just before it goes through and stop, then I have a nail punch that I put on my belt sander and made it like a needle at the end of it, I then very lightly have to poke a very small hole in the carto, I've been using this technique for some time and find that it really feeds the cartos properly with out flooding them and wasting precious juice but yet keeps them soaked perfectly. We use to use the punch in the old GG days and thats where I found that scoring it first was easier then punching from the start, simply put, it is the way to go.!
Edit: we made Jigs for the other tank system way back when,, you maybe able to find a post showing them.
I've been running the dual coils in my tank and they perform super and so do the Iken V2 Golds.
Edit: we made Jigs for the other tank system way back when,, you maybe able to find a post showing them.
I've been running the dual coils in my tank and they perform super and so do the Iken V2 Golds.
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Punching sounds like the easiest way for those that suck at using a Dremel like myself. I did about 30 cartos at once, got shaving dust everywhere, had to take the splinters out with a dental pic. While it wasn't fun it was worth it in the end as now I am set for a while but I dread the day when my supply gets low. The Dremels just scare me and I am afraid I am gonna have an accident.
I just wish they had some type of tool, like pliers, that you could use. I found a sheet metal punch set of pliers on Amazon but the darn things didn't open up enough to be able to fit the carto in it. If someone could make a tool fairly easy they would sell a lot of them or at least for right now.
I just wish they had some type of tool, like pliers, that you could use. I found a sheet metal punch set of pliers on Amazon but the darn things didn't open up enough to be able to fit the carto in it. If someone could make a tool fairly easy they would sell a lot of them or at least for right now.
How big of a hole are you making? When you pierce through the metal does the punch penetrate the filler? How many holes are you putting in? The reason I ask is because I have a mill and could do a bunch in a few minutes. I would start the hole with the milling bit and stop just before it goes through the carto....then finish it off with a punch. I just don't know if when the punch goes through will it damage the filler.
over in E2 inside AVS discussion "General Tools #89 Stainless Steel Automatic Center Punch" was brought up
.....gonna give it a try, can get at home depot for $15
.....gonna give it a try, can get at home depot for $15
BeadSmith Metal Hole Punch Pliers For Sheet Metal - 1.5mm
Also available at Sears. Page down to see them in the following link.
Sears: Online department store featuring appliances, tools, fitness equipment and more
Also available at Sears. Page down to see them in the following link.
Sears: Online department store featuring appliances, tools, fitness equipment and more
Anyone use a band saw? I was thinking I could take a bunch of cartos to my FIL's shop and just carefully nick a couple of slots into a bunch of them fairly easily.
Sorry if this is a redundant quesion, but we are up to 64 pages now and my memory isnt what it used to be.
Does anyone have the OD measurements for each tank? my battery MOD is exactly 15/16" and I would like to get something close to match.
Does anyone have the OD measurements for each tank? my battery MOD is exactly 15/16" and I would like to get something close to match.
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I have been using a Dremmel to slot mine, but I did try my center punch on a used carto. IMHO, you are better off with the rotary tool. Admittedly, I have had mine forever, but I don't see how a new one would be any better. The bit is a new one, but it could be my problem; so far, the thing has worked on most surfaces. A center punch is not designed to punch a hole but to score a starting point for drilling.
Here are the problems:
1) You really need to secure the carto with a decent set of pliers, preferably a vise grip and place everything on a solid surface.
2) It takes a fair amount of strength to get the center punch to fire. It has a spring inside.
3) It's easy to slip off the cylindrical surface. A center punch works by pressing down on it to load the spring until it hits a trigger.
4) It took several attempts to get a hole punched through. The center punch sends quite a shock through the part, and I am afraid that the shock could easily break apart the solder connection to the Kantal/Nichrome heating element.
5) The impact of the center punch risks distorting the cylinder of the carto which will cause the Liquinator to leak.
Rather than spending $16 on a center punch, you could probably get a far more useful rotary tool for $19 from Harbor freight. It is complete with a whole bunch of accessories. They are always running specials, and you can get a discount coupon for 20% by signing up for the newsletter.
If you buy a rotary tool, please use safety glasses when using a cutoff wheel. Cutoff wheels can shatter so you do need to protect your eyes. Practice cutting slots into a dead carto first.
Won't a hole punch work better on a sheet as opposed to a hollow clynder which is what a carto is? If you deform the clyndrical shape from the pressure of the hole punch, you will have leakage with the Liquinator.
Rotary Tool Kit - 80 Piece Set
Here are the problems:
1) You really need to secure the carto with a decent set of pliers, preferably a vise grip and place everything on a solid surface.
2) It takes a fair amount of strength to get the center punch to fire. It has a spring inside.
3) It's easy to slip off the cylindrical surface. A center punch works by pressing down on it to load the spring until it hits a trigger.
4) It took several attempts to get a hole punched through. The center punch sends quite a shock through the part, and I am afraid that the shock could easily break apart the solder connection to the Kantal/Nichrome heating element.
5) The impact of the center punch risks distorting the cylinder of the carto which will cause the Liquinator to leak.
Rather than spending $16 on a center punch, you could probably get a far more useful rotary tool for $19 from Harbor freight. It is complete with a whole bunch of accessories. They are always running specials, and you can get a discount coupon for 20% by signing up for the newsletter.
If you buy a rotary tool, please use safety glasses when using a cutoff wheel. Cutoff wheels can shatter so you do need to protect your eyes. Practice cutting slots into a dead carto first.
Won't a hole punch work better on a sheet as opposed to a hollow clynder which is what a carto is? If you deform the clyndrical shape from the pressure of the hole punch, you will have leakage with the Liquinator.
Rotary Tool Kit - 80 Piece Set
BeadSmith Metal Hole Punch Pliers For Sheet Metal - 1.5mm
Also available at Sears. Page down to see them in the following link.
Sears: Online department store featuring appliances, tools, fitness equipment and more
Well I tried one that looks almost like this from Amazon:
The issue with these is the ends don't open wide enough to fit the carto in it but not sure if the one in your pic opens up more?
I am not sure about these other things but would be nice to find something like these tools to work. I think the hole punch is on the right path but how do you hold the carto as I don't have a vice or anything like that? Sorry I am soooo mechanically challenged.
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