TC beyond Ni200: Nickel Purity, Dicodes; Ti, SS, Resistherm NiFe30; Coefficient of Resistance
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Ni mode only is a deal breaker for me personally, but decent looking cheap mod.
The bluetooth remote camera function sounds a bit like a tacked on gimmick though.
@dwcraig1 What kind of things happen with your NiFe48 that you don't like. Just curious if it is anything like I experience. Not going to say what want to see if it is the same.
I can't seem to get it to work well in my Aromamizer, ohms are a bit lower than I'd like with dual coils. Not much experience with it as yet though.
OK I thought the flavor on mine was getting a little weak but I upped the temp a little and all is well again.
Thought I'd be using 24awg with dual coils. Resistance way too low. Thought 26awg, as last build, but settled on 28awg.
Came in at 0.20 ohms and has not budged a micro ohm from there. Better vapor and flavor than the 26awg...and almost NO leaking, though I significantly reduced the amount of KGD.
@dwcraig1 Ok DNA is DC-DC conversion but the SXMM is not exactly PWM either right it's not a constant signal when temperature limiting but neither is the DNA correct?
Or anyone.
Or anyone.
OK I read in the specs the SXMM is buck boost DC-DC so same thing as the DNA correct?
I'm not trying to knock the DNA200 hell I've already started DL custom themes from FB just trying to understand them better. Working on the tutorial. Don't want to go into this blind.
The most accurate term I have seen for the way the SXM does temp control is with Pulse Frequency Modulation, where it chooses a pulse to hit your coil with (based on your setting) and then changes how often it is going to hit the coil with that pulse based on resistance/temperature. Close to temp? Less pulses. Not even close to temp? Keep going with that pulse, to where the pulses are so close together that you don't really notice. It's much more evident when you're near temp/dry-ish coil, because you can almost hear it. Incredibly reminiscent of the old VAMO with PWM days. Check out PBusardo's scope graphs on it to get better detail, it's hard to describe without sounding exactly like a VAMO.
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Hi, everyone. Things have been crazy, and it's been a while since I've checked the threads here that interest me. Too many to read, but I need to chime in on something. I got a DNA200 yesterday and just built my first coil on it. In my opinion, Evolv's "preheat" bull**** is dangerous. Luckily it can be disabled on the DNA200 (which I've done), but it was the main reason I didn't like the DNA40. Here is why.
I build Genesis atomizers. With Ni or Ti wire, the best way to check for hotspots is to leave the TC on, turn the power down, soak the wick, and make sure it is bubbling evenly. This has served me very well on any other mod I have used with a Genesis.
Enter the DNA200, before I turned off preheat. In fact, I had actually turned it way down before I even built a coil.
So I go through the above procedure. The top coil had a hotspot, which glowed red as soon as I fired it. THIS IS EXTREMELY BAD FOR ANY TC CAPABLE WIRE! I was able to fix it before the wire oxidized, and had it even pretty quickly.
Then I put my tank together and go to take a puff. Coil is a bit too dry, and BAM! I AM INHALING FIRE!
Be careful, everyone.
I build Genesis atomizers. With Ni or Ti wire, the best way to check for hotspots is to leave the TC on, turn the power down, soak the wick, and make sure it is bubbling evenly. This has served me very well on any other mod I have used with a Genesis.
Enter the DNA200, before I turned off preheat. In fact, I had actually turned it way down before I even built a coil.
So I go through the above procedure. The top coil had a hotspot, which glowed red as soon as I fired it. THIS IS EXTREMELY BAD FOR ANY TC CAPABLE WIRE! I was able to fix it before the wire oxidized, and had it even pretty quickly.
Then I put my tank together and go to take a puff. Coil is a bit too dry, and BAM! I AM INHALING FIRE!
Be careful, everyone.
About how long are you getting on a NiFe48 coil before having to dry burn to clean?
Now you have me wondering about NiFe48. Part of the prep is to dry burn it spaced to build up the oxidation before you compress it. This seems to work very well with it and you are supposed to be able to dry fire it to clean it like we used to do with Kanthal. Since we really don't know anything about the safety of dry burning yet even Kanthal makes me wonder.
Incidently I am having very good luck with my NiFe48 now. I started wrapping a contact coil on my coil master, stretching it just enough to have a little space between coils. Dry burn maybe 2-3 seconds on my atty compressing it till it glows from inside out and vape. With this method my coils at 6 wraps 2.5mm are coming out at about .195ohms. After some use they vape very well at 420F great flavor.
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