I don't think you "should" explain that accident but if you want to I'm ready for a good fit of giggles.
Duane
TC beyond Ni200: Nickel Purity, Dicodes; Ti, SS, Resistherm NiFe30; Coefficient of Resistance
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Duane
Oh well...I don't think you "should" explain that accident but if you want to I'm ready for a good fit of giggles.
Duane
I was explaining to a trainee where he should read the serial number on a ceiling projector (we have around 22) because I needed a survey on which needed replacement.
Anyway, he got somehow mixed up and didn't understand so I was telling him that the labels where on the top of the projector and he was saying "where? where? Where?" so I said "HERE" and pointed to the ceiling... The mod slipped out of my hand and the rest you know... I looked like John Travolta on the dance floor in Saturday night fever lol.
Regards
Tony
Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.
Tony
OUCH !...but it's like watching the guy slip on the ice....impossible not to laugh ....I can envision me doing that dance and it'd definitely be funny.
Duane
@vapealone that's awesome, thanks. I hope you will stick around and continue to discuss this with me/us
Effects on TCR of twisting Ni200/Kanthal
Tell me, have you done any studies on the effect on TC of twisting wire? Like whether the TCR varies when wire is twisted versus straight? ......
Your spreadsheet indicates varying temperature adjustments needed for the Claptons, what I don't yet follow is how this is calculated? With a Kanthal/Ni200 twisted coil, the electricity should always follow the Ni200 because it is the path of least resistance. But your chart shows very different temperature response depending on how much Kanthal v Ni200 is used. I don't think it can be based on the resistance of the Kanthal - because the electricity should follow only the Ni200 - so maybe it's based on the effect on heat distribution across the coil?
But I still don't quite understand - because the Ni200's resistance rise is directly related to its temperature rise. If the Ni200 heats up to X°C, its resistance should rise to YΩ. So why is this different when there is 'slave' Kanthal in there? Even if the extra weight of Kanthal metal causes the Ni200 to cool down, that should simply result in the Ni200's resistanec not rising as much - and the temperature measuring should still be accurate?
TLDR: What are you thoughts on why your graph showing Pure Ni200 versus Clapton Hybrid shows the Claptons having lower temperature:resistance response than the pure? Why is it not the same TCR as for pure Ni200? I did not think it could be based on the resistance of the Kanthal, so maybe it is based on the twisting of the Ni200 affecting something?
.........
As I stated in that post my numbers are purely calculated, and real life numbers could be different.
The calculations simply based on the idea that we have got a parallel resistor setup. R1 is the core(slave), R2 is the wrapping(master)
Using resistance (or factor) values from a material datasheet (or from TCR formula if no data available) in the
And this is why e.g. a 26/34 setting is losing its temperature sensitivity badly. In this case, the Kanthal resistance is constant 0.0113 and the Ni resistance will start from 0.0056
Means, around 200C R(A1)~=R(Ni)
And above 200C R(Ni)>R(A1)
and the slave becomes the master
In other word:
The bigger the difference between the resistances the closer the total resistance value gets to the lower resistance value
And
The smaller the difference between the resistances the closer the total resistance value gets to the half of either the initial resistance values
And it is hyperbolic. Even if the change is linear (e.g. linear TCR). The curve will go dead flat horizontal.
In terms of twisted: It is not really my thing. Tried both A1/A1 and A1/Ni but didn't float my boat. In terms of vapor, I can't really tell the difference. That's why I didn't go any deeper on it.
It was US$60 (I think) to Australia. But it was pretty damned quick on the other sideAlloy 120
I made some enquiries for Alloy 120 today. I got a quote of $50 from Resistance Wire, but he didn't mention how much shipping to the UK would be. I assume terribly expensive!
Can you tell me how much yours was (I take it you are in Germany or somewhere else in Europe?)
Two days or somethingBTW if you got any idea how to send it, I can easily spare some of each gauges
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i may be mistaken but looks like aspire have some 316L ss prebuilts for their new tank...
Aspire Triton Tank
Aspire Triton Tank
it is. I wonder whether those coils will work in the atlantises?!?! They look similar!
Wow yes, that really seems to suggest so doesn't it - at first I was sure they just meant the coil housing, but "filament" is pretty clear, and then the whole thing seems to be confirmed when they say the next coil, the higher ohms ones, "uses traditional Kanthal"
Great find!
Great find!
Stainless steel? Meh.. SS is on the far end of being barely usable for TC, Titanium or something more suitable for TC would have made me excited, but SS, not so much.
Ok, there is a RBA base to use other wires, but is it just me or does it look very finicky with those tiny screws?
Ok, there is a RBA base to use other wires, but is it just me or does it look very finicky with those tiny screws?
agreed but it opens up the possibility of using these coils for 'traditional' use or for TC I guess...
I agree the RBA deck looks a little interesting...
As I stated in that post my numbers are purely calculated, and real life numbers could be different.
The calculations simply based on the idea that we have got a parallel resistor setup. R1 is the core(slave), R2 is the wrapping(master)
Using resistance (or factor) values from a material datasheet (or from TCR formula if no data available) in theformula yields the results.
And this is why e.g. a 26/34 setting is losing its temperature sensitivity badly. In this case, the Kanthal resistance is constant 0.0113 and the Ni resistance will start from 0.0056
Means, around 200C R(A1)~=R(Ni)
And above 200C R(Ni)>R(A1)
and the slave becomes the master
In other word:
The bigger the difference between the resistances the closer the total resistance value gets to the lower resistance value
And
The smaller the difference between the resistances the closer the total resistance value gets to the half of either the initial resistance values
And it is hyperbolic. Even if the change is linear (e.g. linear TCR). The curve will go dead flat horizontal.
In terms of twisted: It is not really my thing. Tried both A1/A1 and A1/Ni but didn't float my boat. In terms of vapor, I can't really tell the difference. That's why I didn't go any deeper on it.
It was US$60 (I think) to Australia. But it was pretty damned quick on the other side
BTW if you got any idea how to send it, I can easily spare some of each gauges
now that is a lot or wire!!!
for mortals maybe but the way you churn out the clapton wire, I imagine it wont last too long!!!Tell me about it
It will last a couple hundred years to go trough 'em
Tony, so sorry to hear about your.. incident. I am trying not to laugh at the circumstances
Thanks again for your kind offer of help. But I've found a much simpler and quicker solution. I just bought a HCigar HB40 version 3, which has the authentic DNA 40 with the atty-lock feature and C/F temps, so it's one of the later revisions (of the small screen board.)
It was £45 Buy it Now on eBay, or only £5 more than the DNA 40 chip on its own! There were others starting at £60 for an auction, so this was a super bargain. Fingers crossed it's actually working and not a fake But I'm not aware of any HCigar HB40 clones and the seller specifically said it was genuine and in good condition, and he has 100% feedback selling other vaping stuff so hopefully it's all legit.
So I shall do some authentic DNA 40 testing as soon as I can. And hopefully before that post some results from my the temp testing I've been doing the last couple of days, but first I still need to do more tests to confirm and understand my first (interesting) results.
Thanks again for your kind offer of help. But I've found a much simpler and quicker solution. I just bought a HCigar HB40 version 3, which has the authentic DNA 40 with the atty-lock feature and C/F temps, so it's one of the later revisions (of the small screen board.)
It was £45 Buy it Now on eBay, or only £5 more than the DNA 40 chip on its own! There were others starting at £60 for an auction, so this was a super bargain. Fingers crossed it's actually working and not a fake
But I'm not aware of any HCigar HB40 clones and the seller specifically said it was genuine and in good condition, and he has 100% feedback selling other vaping stuff so hopefully it's all legit.So I shall do some authentic DNA 40 testing as soon as I can. And hopefully before that post some results from my the temp testing I've been doing the last couple of days, but first I still need to do more tests to confirm and understand my first (interesting) results.
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Very interested to see your results.Tony, so sorry to hear about your.. incident. I am trying not to laugh at the circumstances
Thanks again for your kind offer of help. But I've found a much simpler and quicker solution. I just bought a HCigar HB40 version 3, which has the authentic DNA 40 with the atty-lock feature and C/F temps, so it's one of the later revisions (of the small screen version.)
It was £45 Buy it Now on eBay, or only £5 more than the DNA 40 chip on its own! There were others starting at £60 for an auction, so this was a super bargain. Fingers crossed it's actually working and not a fake
So I shall do some authentic DNA 40 testing as soon as I can. And hopefully before that post some results from my the temp testing I've been doing the last couple of days, but first I still need to do more tests to confirm and understand my first (interesting) results.
This thread is possibly the most interesting and useful on ECF (well of course together with the Ti/Safety thread).
Duane
Hcigar HB40, I surely like mine, got it instead of building one. Just about the same price as it would have cost me to build a Hana styled box.
For anyone who cares (and why would you really) looks like my 2380 MIGHT ship tomorrow...Ive forgotten why I wanted one almost...lol!
...so this is where everyone chips in telling me what a great device it is and worth the wait and I wont regret it...etc etc..
...so this is where everyone chips in telling me what a great device it is and worth the wait and I wont regret it...etc etc..
It works well with temperature control and it's pretty much the only solution for people like me who hate box mods.For anyone who cares (and why would you really) looks like my 2380 MIGHT ship tomorrow...Ive forgotten why I wanted one almost...lol!
...so this is where everyone chips in telling me what a great device it is and worth the wait and I wont regret it...etc etc..
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