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vapealone

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Back off topic... I'm not too knowledgeable on battery stats. So the Samsung 25R technically has a higher capacity than the LG HG2?
Not necessarily. CC test shows significantly higher capacity for the LG HG2 for all the different amps and one pulsed CR shows lower. Considering the Js you can get out of them it is simply interesting. Would be lovely to know if the CR test or the tested battery was off or simply the HG2 can underperform badly in a certain situation.
Anyway, the LG H2 is still what I will buy for my serial batt mods as my settings don't need high amps. But will go for the VTC5 or 25R next time for the single cell mods.
 

Madnapali

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Not necessarily. CC test shows significantly higher capacity for the LG HG2 for all the different amps and one pulsed CR shows lower. Considering the Js you can get out of them it is simply interesting. Would be lovely to know if the CR test or the tested battery was off or simply the HG2 can underperform badly in a certain situation.
Anyway, the LG H2 is still what I will buy for my serial batt mods as my settings don't need high amps. But will go for the VTC5 or 25R next time for the single cell mods.
That's why I went with HG2s when I ordered my Boxer kit. Well, that and GV was selling them for like $14 a pair, kind of an irresistable price. I'll drain the pair in my boxer down past the low battery warnings until it totally stops and see what the J usage is.

Also was thinking about getting another pair to use in a single battery mod, maybe I'll just go with 25Rs again.
 

vapealone

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That's why I went with HG2s when I ordered my Boxer kit. Well, that and GV was selling them for like $14 a pair, kind of an irresistable price. I'll drain the pair in my boxer down past the low battery warnings until it totally stops and see what the J usage is.

Also was thinking about getting another pair to use in a single battery mod, maybe I'll just go with 25Rs again.
I don't want to suggest anything because I don't know. I have just seen a graph which was quite interesting.
I've found it interesting too that apparently the cells behave better under constant discharge and our On/Off cycles reduce the achievable capacity.
I wish I could see some comprehensive test (quite a few of same batts and repeated tests) because I am curious.
Although ADV wise I don't worry too much and wouldn't bin my working cells either.
 
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cigatron

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Back to the topic:
ATM I am playing with A120 coils and found a funny thing which I don't get:
Instead of my previous oxidised micro coils I have built some unoxidised macro coils, basically M3 and M4 thread equivalent ones.
And for some reason, in tanks (Goliath and modded Subtank) they are hilarious (lower W/J and Temp for same performance = more power efficient) but don't shine on Velocity. It requires the same power settings and temp must be lowered because of burning taste. Inthe tanks I have just lower the temp because I could.
Again, the coils are the same. Any idea?
I switched from contact coils to spaced coils a good while back, in all cases the spaced coils proved ti be less efficient. They have to be, less heat sharing between the turns of the coil. When I moved to spaced coils it was to increase wick longivity i.e. more even heat distributed to the wick, funny though, spaced coils require heavier wicking to stave off burny hits....twisted spaced coils even more so. Try wicking heavier?
 

dwcraig1

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I got my titanium coiled TGT II to work just fine on my SXK flask using TheBlokes recommended settings but my Opus not so good.
I supposedly have grade 1 titanium but maybe it's not. I am having great results with twisted 28 gauge ni200 and 28 gauge Kanthal with my Opus. Also using twisted ni/kanthal in my Nuppin' on my DIY squonker flask with good results.
 
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dwcraig1

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cigatron

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That's what I got.
I imagine I can get it to work to my liking but I'll have to fool around with the settings as the CSV file that I'm using is (maybe) causing it to be hotter than it should. I get the TP message way to soon and I have temp set up to 490F
With tc devices I like to hit tp as soon as possible, that way I know I'm pushing my topper to it's maximum potential all the time. The displayed temp setting is just a "number" for me but then again I'm using elcheapo Evic VT60's with no programmability.

What topper are you using? What average wattage is it running at when temp protecting?
 
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dwcraig1

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11800410_1046458535378370_1535957834549346042_n.jpg

about 11?
This one is with a twisted ni/kanthal coil.
11745512_1046459752044915_1833838760410788413_n.jpg

28 watts on both, both TGT II's, 440F with twisted ni/kanthal and 470F on the one with Ti
Edit: I'm almost ready to go home from work, I'll open the atty and possibly just re do it, maybe got a problem with the legs or something.
 
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cigatron

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11800410_1046458535378370_1535957834549346042_n.jpg

about 11?
This one is with a twisted ni/kanthal coil.
11745512_1046459752044915_1833838760410788413_n.jpg

28 watts on both, both TGT II's, 440F with twisted ni/kanthal and 470F on the one with Ti
Edit: I'm almost ready to go home from work, I'll open the atty and possibly just re do it, maybe got a problem with the legs or something.

Can't help much with your twisted build, I don't have anything coiled that way but with twisted kanthal heavier wicking densities have proven to perform better for me.

For perspective, my STminis V1 rbas with spaced Ti builds run at around 35w bouncing off tp when the wick is new. Somewhere around 30w after break in and all the way to eol. I'm a lung hitter but I don't use the widest afc option; I use the middle setting which should be fairly close to your tais? Your tais have a similar build deck to the STmini V1 rbas so I would think you would be able to push a bit more than 19w; especially with the less efficient twisted build. Your Ti build could be underwicked and/or have bad coil symmetry; both are power killers.

Try wicking heavier? The difference between medium wicking density and high wicking density on my STminis is good for at least 10 extra watts. The flavor is much better too. Ymmv.
 
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cigatron

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Looks like I'm going to be giving up my Taifuns here directly.
No, never hit TP
Sad how the once best vaping equipment on the planet gets superseded so quickly. My stardusts, evods, protank variants, tais, kays, erlk, rose, billow, lemos and goblin have all hit the junk drawer. Damn you kanger with temp control!
 
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Shawn Hoefer

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Sad how the once best vaping equipment on the planet gets superseded so quickly. My stardusts, evods, protank variants, tais, kays, erlk, rose, billow, lemos and goblin have all hit the junk drawer. Damn you kanger with temp control!
If you're running out of storage space, I've got plenty and would be happy to hang on to them for you... no charge...
 

cigatron

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Hmm... I still use my erlp 24/7 since October, 15th 2014

Is there something better out there now? :confused:

Regards
Tony

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Better? Hmmm, different. The STmini tank can be removed any time without dumping juice; same reason I drawered my lemos, billow and goblin. It refills in less than 10sec. It has a little more airflow, if that's desirable to you. The flavor and vapor density is on par with the erlk; just more of it. I loved my erlk, I'm just in to "less fussy is better" these days.
 
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