TC beyond Ni200: Nickel Purity, Dicodes; Ti, SS, Resistherm NiFe30; Coefficient of Resistance
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I think this is probably right. Setting the temp too low sounds common for the "chunkier" attys such as KF4. Are you using your technique of adjusting for static resistance in setting the temperature?
I have to say I am finding it extremely difficult to resist buying a Dicodes. The lack of thermometer is annoying in principle but seems pretty irrelevant most of the time - it's almost a constant 20°C in my office/study in any case (where I spend 90% of my time). And even when temperatures will vary, 10° up or down is well within the margin of error for any atty anyway, even assuming that one forgets to adjust for it.
In some respects it's even a benefit - the thermometer is only used to get the base temperature of an atty. If the mod is hot it can't be immediately re-used on a cold atty, where the Dicodes could. I'm thinking probably these disadvantages/advantages might balance out in the long run.
@ndb70 @soulseek you've both described various aspects of it, but can you give your overall view?
It would be the most expensive mod I'd ever bought, so I'd really be doing so as a kind of quality benchmark for TC, ohms reading, coefficient adjustments. So for example, to do a check that my calculations of Nickel Purity's scale are accurate by comparing them to the Dicodes.
And to actually vape on, of course
But I can't justify the cost for that alone; I could buy four NP mods for the cost of one Dicodes, or five if I go for the 2380.
@ndb70 in particular, you've done a lot of testing it seems - are you happy with it as a 'benchmark' mod (manual thermometer calcs aside)?
In some respects it's even a benefit - the thermometer is only used to get the base temperature of an atty. If the mod is hot it can't be immediately re-used on a cold atty, where the Dicodes could. I'm thinking probably these disadvantages/advantages might balance out in the long run.
@ndb70 @soulseek you've both described various aspects of it, but can you give your overall view?
It would be the most expensive mod I'd ever bought, so I'd really be doing so as a kind of quality benchmark for TC, ohms reading, coefficient adjustments. So for example, to do a check that my calculations of Nickel Purity's scale are accurate by comparing them to the Dicodes.
And to actually vape on, of course
But I can't justify the cost for that alone; I could buy four NP mods for the cost of one Dicodes, or five if I go for the 2380.@ndb70 in particular, you've done a lot of testing it seems - are you happy with it as a 'benchmark' mod (manual thermometer calcs aside)?
Maybe I was a bit optimistic. Hopefully by end of week!
BTW if you are really thinking of a dicodes remember the dani v2 has a fixed 510. I'm hoping I don't regret that!
Has anybody tried tungsten wire for vaping?
It seems to be really good for the first sight. It's hard to oxidize and has a relatively high TCR. There is a 0.3mm one on ebay which is 99.95% pure. Of course it's from China so I can't be sure about the purity..
Does anyone have a good reason why shouldn't I give it a try?
It seems to be really good for the first sight. It's hard to oxidize and has a relatively high TCR. There is a 0.3mm one on ebay which is 99.95% pure. Of course it's from China so I can't be sure about the purity..
Does anyone have a good reason why shouldn't I give it a try?
I just PMing you. I'll put it here
Oh thanks for reminding me, I had forgotten. Thanks mate, thanks a lot. Now I have to buy the more expensive one!
I have that urge. That little tingle that tells me I need my hit. I need to buy a Dicodes. It's not my fault, it's my sickness.
How did Greek Mods treat you? They shipped immediately? And you checked out a few places and they were cheapest? It seems most places have them for 199 for the v2 and 289 for 2380 - well most places except our friendly UK ripoff shop of course. What made you choose them versus the place I saw in France (forget name) and elsewhere? Cheapest shipping?
Has anybody tried tungsten wire for vaping?
It seems to be really good for the first sight. It's hard to oxidize and has a relatively high TCR. There is a 0.3mm one on ebay which is 99.95% pure. Of course it's from China so I can't be sure about the purity..
Does anyone have a good reason why shouldn't I give it a try?
@druckle will know more about the potential safety issues
The fact that Dicodes list it as a potential makes me interested
I can't find any good stuff on UK eBay - well there's some very pure stuff but it's 0.09mm so that's out. Then there's 0.23mm from Canada, I suppose I'd have to go with that.
Anyway it was on my list to try so no I cannot talk you out of it! Please try it
The coefficient is 0.0045 / 0.0046 (I think Dicodes say the latter, a site I just saw said the former) which is much closer to Ni200 than the other wires under consideration. That will make it easier to vape on a mod without TCR adjustment, just using temperature adjustments. maybe 60°F. that sort of figure. We can do more precise calculations to be sure.
One downside of Tungsten, the resistance is really low. .25mm (30G) is 1.12Ω/m making it lower resistance than Ni200!
That's a big downside actually In fact I think that rules it out. Lower resistance and lower TCR is not what we want. We want high resistance/high TCR as the ideal, and the compromises are low resistance/high TCR (Ni200) or high resistance/low TCR (SS, Ti). Not low/low
That's a big downside actually
In fact I think that rules it out. Lower resistance and lower TCR is not what we want. We want high resistance/high TCR as the ideal, and the compromises are low resistance/high TCR (Ni200) or high resistance/low TCR (SS, Ti). Not low/low
Lol!I just PMing you. I'll put it here
Oh thanks for reminding me, I had forgotten. Thanks mate, thanks a lot. Now I have to buy the more expensive one!
I have that urge. That little tingle that tells me I need my hit. I need to buy a Dicodes. It's not my fault, it's my sickness.
How did Greek Mods treat you? They shipped immediately? And you checked out a few places and they were cheapest? It seems most places have them for 199 for the v2 and 289 for 2380 - well most places except our friendly UK ripoff shop of course. What made you choose them versus the place I saw in France (forget name) and elsewhere? Cheapest shipping?
Greek mods great so far. I ordered at crazy o'clock Saturday and I had a tracking number mid-point Sunday!
Registered shipping free. Couldn't find a better deal to be honest. I really like the 2380 but I'll only ever use 18650 and the extra £70 for a floating 510 seemed excessive! I'm nuts but over £200 for a mod is too rich for me even in my madness!!
Tomorrow is an holiday here in boot-shaped south of Europe ;-) so I hope I'll have time to perform another experiment with my "corrected" TCR.
Anyway, today I took another couple of dead-short measurements of my K4 at work and I found that:
1) After cleaning the post screws (where you catch the coil lags) and the holes they screw into with IPA, dead short resistance changed from abot 0.03 to around 0.026. We're playing with thin air here, but note-to-self: "always keep also your post screws cleaned"
2) Switching from the steamtuners' spring sleeve to the updated gold spring, makes thing worse by about 0.005, so, at least with my K4 (an original one) the gold spring is better than the stock one but nothing beats the spring sleeve.
Time permitting, tomorrow I'm going to build a new coil for this K4, apply the formula TCReff = R / (Kr + R) * TCR to calculate the "effective" TCR to program on the dicodes and then will perform a water test to see if I can confirm that the temperature is more accurate when using TCReff on the K4.
I hope to have some results to share soon.
After almost a week, I can say I definitively like it. My only two concerns are the tube-ness and the lack of thermometer, but as you said, it's probably not going to be too much of a down in real usage scenarios and might also have some ups in that frees you from caring about the mod temperature (good catch!).
Mind you, it has a non spring loaded 510, which usually pisses people off, but for me its a plus if you intend to use it exclusively with TC: as suggested in the application note (yeah I had to decipher myself what they meant, but thanks to some suggestions I got in another thread I finally got it), it is for the best to sacrifice a bit of aesthetics and have a little gap for a fixed 510 because you are dead sure your current path is solid and is not going to suffer from too soft springs.
The build is phenomenal, the look is (tube-ness apart) very polished and the display is gorgeous (small but crisp as you could hope).
The configurability is also unbeatable (if you like tinkering): being able to set the lowest you want to go with your battery, and the constant measurements with on-load/off-load voltages and cumulative mah are (to my knowledge) yet to be seen in any other mod. Even the innovative joule counter of the SX-M pales when compared to the amount of statistics you can get out of it.
Yeah, its pricey, but I would probably consider it as more of a tweaker's instrument that just a mod, if you know what I mean...
If I have to say it, I just still don't completely understand just one thing, and it's still related to res calibration and temperature: if we give for granted that we don't have a thermometer in the mod, and that it always assumes a 20 °C temperature, I don't get why many times, right after calibration, if you show the current value of Res and Temperature, the displayed temperature is not 20 °C, but suspiciously similar to what's the current surrounding temperature.
Let me clarify: there's one menu that can display the current resistance (and consequently estimated temperature) of the coil.
If you look at it right after a puff and keep refreshing it, you can see the value of the res and T slowly decrease (as expected).
If you look at it right after calibration, I would expect T to always report 20 °C (if that's the assumed calibration temperature), but today for example I was in a lab where I had 24 °C and after calibration the displayed temperature was always 23 °C.
I'd really like to get an official statement from dicodes about how this whole calibration thing really works...
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Also it doesn't oxidize so naked metal exposed. No touching coils but also might be a bit toxic! Non-standard I reckon...niobium anybody??One downside of Tungsten, the resistance is really low. .25mm (30G) is 1.12Ω/m making it lower resistance than Ni200!
That's a big downside actually
That is cool. Means it can measure temp from the wire resistance but with some accuracy!!
I thought about that but neither niobium nor tungsten have a protective/adherent oxide and I think both like oxygen. I think I'll keep thinking and enjoy my titanium till some light bulb comes on for me. (no pun intended)
Duane
I thought tungsten oxidized pretty easily. I know if you tap a little hole in a light bulb to break the vacuum you get a big flash/pop when air rushes in.
Duane
Great info, thanks - especially re screws! Do you have an ultrasonic cleaner? I can highly recommend it. I have a 2L Chinese one I got from eBay (Belgian company.) £60 / $100, totally worth it. I can put in five or six attys at once (all broken down into their individual components) and clean them all very easily and very thoroughly.
It is also great for DIY juice mixing as well, if that is something you do (or want to do) - it can be used to speed-steep the liquids (basically heating and stirring them, automatically.)
But I thought the app note said that the ideal was a spring. It then said, if you can't have a spring, then have a gap. But spring is ideal:
Due to the warming up of the vaporizer and head, it is advantageous to have a spring element between atomizer and mod, to compensate the danger of changing contact resistances. If neither the mod nor the atomizer has a spring contact, it is better to have the mechanical stop provided by the contact pin and not by the head. In other words electrically it is better to accept a gap between atomizer and head as otherwise the resistance is somewhat undefined.
Yes it is a bit hard to follow precisely (translation issues), but I definitely get that it is best to have a spring , that part seems very clear (first sentence.)
Of course that makes it very odd that they did not put spring loaded in their Dani v2..
I have to get one. I am a Tweaker before I am much else
This I can't understand, because again the app note seems clear that it does not have a temp sensor:
The temperature control is prepared by an initial reference measurement of the coil at room temperature of 20°.
After the reference measurement, a later fastening or moving of the atomizer should be strictly avoided. If the mechanical change is necessary, a new reference measurement is recommended. Therefore the user just has to wait for the atomizer to cool down and then choose the reference measurement in the menu, otherwise the temperature cannot be identified correctly.
To enable the temperature control, the mod initially needs to measure the resistance of the coil at a known temperature. For this purpose it does the reference measurement. All later calculations and temperature display depend on the correctness of this measurement. At this point the mod assumes that the atomizer has a temperature of 20°C. In case that the atomizer is still warm, due to vaping before, the user should wait, until the atomizer has cooled down. In case that the ambient temperature is not around 20°C, the temperature settings should be adjusted by an offset accordingly.
So I cannot relate this to your findings. Unless app note is outdated? You are right we must have confirmation from Dicodes.
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Tungsten coils???
A quicky Wikipedia scan turned this up. (I'm no expert on W and I'm curious).
anyway there's the quote
" Tungsten interferes with molybdenum and copper metabolism and is somewhat toxic to animal life"
Some one told me once "you're a real animal"....so ???
Dunno what that means in real life.
A quicky Wikipedia scan turned this up. (I'm no expert on W and I'm curious).
anyway there's the quote
" Tungsten interferes with molybdenum and copper metabolism and is somewhat toxic to animal life"
Some one told me once "you're a real animal"....so ???
Dunno what that means in real life.
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