Thanks for the info.
In the end, I'm just grateful that SS430 works as well as it does, It's a good all around wire for any use really IMHO.
Glad I have 200ft of it.
Eric
TC beyond Ni200: Nickel Purity, Dicodes; Ti, SS, Resistherm NiFe30; Coefficient of Resistance
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Thanks for the info.
In the end, I'm just grateful that SS430 works as well as it does, It's a good all around wire for any use really IMHO.
Glad I have 200ft of it.
Eric
@TheotherSteveS I've probably asked this before but after you wrap your coil and place it do you heat it to glowing or just to squeeze it with the NiFe. I got to thinking I could use my old MVP2 but that it not possible won't fire that low ohms I don't remember what the SXS fires but I can use the M for sure. Got to try and find how low the S fires. And I believe you said about 5-7w for cleaning. Do you need to heat it and scrape a screwdriver across it so it is heating from inside out or not. Talking the NiFe48 from Zivipf
@2legsshrt
FWIW, I made a 1ohm SS430 coil on a Kraken and it fires on my MVP20W
I seem to recall 1ohm is the limit for that mod.
Just happy I can still use them (I have 2) with the same wire I use for TC.
Eric
FWIW, I made a 1ohm SS430 coil on a Kraken and it fires on my MVP20W
I seem to recall 1ohm is the limit for that mod.
Just happy I can still use them (I have 2) with the same wire I use for TC.
Eric
Speaking of wire that can be used in both TC and not, I'm liking that Unkamen Notty-Fe52 since it seems to have a new name, Invar 36
You have a link to that at Unkamen, I couldnt find it......and can you run this on a mod that only does NI or TI?
Eric
Well here is the link, no longer available.
Unavailable Listing on Etsy
I can't answer as to it working, can be used where stainless is used TP wise (sort of)
Even if you manage to get the NiFe heating properly via squeezing the coils while pulsing, it will probably kick out of TC mode in use (once the coils are wet). Just pulsing the coil to a glow does not mean it's been effectively oxidized!! You need to hit about 1600 - 1800°F to begin forming an effective oxide layer. Think of the oxidized layer as a supper thin insulating sleeve on your coil. It is the only thing preventing arcs and hot spots. Since the NiFe 52 needs to be oxidized to work properly under power it stands to reason that it would be a huge PITA to use power to create the oxide layer. It can be done in watt mode at 5-10 watts, & a fantastic idea if your trying to develop more patience! Personally I will stick with pre-torching the coils to almost white glow prior to installing. If you do that it won't take much fiddling to get them glowing inside out on the mod. Strumming & reinserting the mandrel to wiggle the coils works best for me to get them heating evenly. See my post #2638 on page 132 of this thread for pictures showing the torching & what the properly oxidized coil should look like. It's well worth the effort to properly prep the NiFe. The NiFe will not ever loose its ability to regenerate the oxide layer, meaning you can dry burn & re wick till your just sick of the build & want to try something new.
A quick heads up for those using NiFe48 (Alloy 52) on a DNA 200 device:
Consider lowering your preheat down from 200 F which is where mine has been set. Just about blew the back of my throat OFF, or, a hole through my neck.
Was happily vaping away with outstanding flavor and tons of vapor, set to 440 F at 26-28 watts, set the mod down for several minutes, picked it up again...and WHAM. Caught before I did any damage but SHEESH.
I had been enjoying Nickel builds with 200 watt preheat. Same with NiFe until just now. NiFe48 don't like that, at least not with 28awg (thoroughly dry-burned before wrapping, with all other precautions). Be careful...
Am lowering my preheat for this profile. Thinking 80 watts is enough.
BTW, put the same device on an rDNA 40...no problem. Lesson learned.
Consider lowering your preheat down from 200 F which is where mine has been set. Just about blew the back of my throat OFF, or, a hole through my neck.
Was happily vaping away with outstanding flavor and tons of vapor, set to 440 F at 26-28 watts, set the mod down for several minutes, picked it up again...and WHAM. Caught before I did any damage but SHEESH.
I had been enjoying Nickel builds with 200 watt preheat. Same with NiFe until just now. NiFe48 don't like that, at least not with 28awg (thoroughly dry-burned before wrapping, with all other precautions). Be careful...
Am lowering my preheat for this profile. Thinking 80 watts is enough.
BTW, put the same device on an rDNA 40...no problem. Lesson learned.
Try to soften the preheat too. I keep this setting always in the lower half
Need to further update the quoted post:
This morning I found very tiny pieces of wire broken under both post's screws. This likely threw the temp reading off.
Going back to 200 preheat when I return home later today. So far (with a new coil) vaping seems to have return to normal w/o excessive temp jumps.
Still no SS430 anywhere in Europe, am I right?
I'm just doing one last test with SS304 but the nickel already is starting to bother my mouthroof... damn
I'm just doing one last test with SS304 but the nickel already is starting to bother my mouthroof... damn
Last edited:
Hey gorman,
Vape Mesh in the UK just started carrying it this week.
http://www.vape-atomizer-mesh.com/products/430-Grade-Stainless-Steel---Magnetic.html
Vape Mesh in the UK just started carrying it this week.
http://www.vape-atomizer-mesh.com/products/430-Grade-Stainless-Steel---Magnetic.html
I've been wanting to try SS430 in another gauge than what Unkamen has... unfortunately there's no option to add it to your cart.
Nice!
If 30AWG doesn't show up on the U.S. market soon that 31AWG looks very interesting.
Eric
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