TC beyond Ni200: Nickel Purity, Dicodes; Ti, SS, Resistherm NiFe30; Coefficient of Resistance

[ndb70]

I gathered, even tempered SS430 isn't that malleable. I have a feeling it's possibly 410, which would be even better than 430. It isn't hard to get, it's just hard to get a small amount for an individual. A vendor would simply order an entire MIG welding spool and divide it up into smaller amounts. They can be had for about $90.

Being SS430 and SS410 is relatively the same I don't find it hard to believe a roll getting mislabeled.

I imagine the ohm/mm would be about the same as 430.

Well, if SS430 remains springy even after annealing, this is _definitively_ not 430.
As I said before, and @soulseek confirmed, this wire is amazingly malleable.
Now, if you can confirm that SS410 would ohm about the same as 430, then I'm going to start believing we really have 410 here, which I think is a good thing after all...

 

[f1vefour]

I meant to say annealed not tempered, I will figure out what SS410 ohm/mm is and post it.

 

[soulseek]

Don't think this is SS410 either. I had to change the TCR closer to 200 for it to work as intended.

 

[ndb70]

Don't think this is SS410 either. I had to change the TCR closer to 200 for it to work as intended.

Weird, works very good here @150-155.

Vapin now 25w, 240C

 

[cigatron]

Anyone checked out the new notch coil design by Joytech/Wismec? Looks interesting, especially when considering that the current will alter its path through the 316SS coil dependent upon heat variations within the coil.

It is an interesting design but what do you mean alter its path? Where did you get that information?

I never considered that. Current follows the path of least resistance. So, when part of the coil heats up the resistance there rises and the current "diverts" to a cooler, lower resistance part to hear it up evenly. I wonder how it performs in TC?

There's your answer @f1vefour . Looking closely at the Notch Coil the current has two paths to travel through at each junction point (notch). Pretty cool design and I'll bet it works great in TC, possibly better than single or multi strand coils as it allows underwicked areas of the coil to remain cooler. Kinda of a temp balancing coil. Guess we'll see.

 

[soulseek]

Can anyone suggest any other supplier for SS430 in Europe other than crazy wire/vape-mesh?

I've tried to contact them to get a refund or a replacement, since they sent me the wrong wires. I got an initial response but no update ever since. Very dodgy behaviour and not at all ok, since I spent almost €20. Don't plan on buying from any of their sites again.

 

[KenD]

Can anyone suggest any other supplier for SS430 in Europe other than crazy wire/vape-mesh?

I've tried to contact them to get a refund or a replacement, since they sent me the wrong wires. I got an initial response but no update ever since. Very dodgy behaviour and not at all ok, since I spent almost €20. Don't plan on buying from any of their sites again.

Have you checked zivipf? Not sure if they have 430, but they might.

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[GeorgeS]

Odd... very odd....

I rarely use anything larger than 26-28AWG but had a spool of 24AWG NiFe from zivipf that I thought I'd give a try. I built a dual coil on a 'Moonshot' and was unable to get the temperature to regulate! After two tear downs (I did dry fire and resolve hot spots before wicking) I rinsed the build in the kitchen sink and filled the tank with tap water.

TCR with H20 = 185.

Considering it ought to have been 404 for NiFe48/52 I found this very odd. What wire did Zivipf send me with a TCR=185?

 

[jazzvaper]

@GeorgeS I have used 24-28 awg NiFe from Zivipf never having an issue with its TCR.

Can you repeat the steps of you H2O test for our listening pleasure. [emoji5]

 

[TrollDragon]

Just tried some of the Beadalon SS316L 20g in the Kronos just for S&G's. It actually works quite nicely in TC with the default SS316 profile on the Cuboid. 3mm ID 8/7 wrap 0.16 ohms 460F/70W ramps up quite quickly.

 

[GeorgeS]

@GeorgeS I have used 24-28 awg NiFe from Zivipf never having an issue with its TCR.

Can you repeat the steps of you H2O test for our listening pleasure. [emoji5]

Sure, after I found the temp to be stuck at 70F with a TCR=525 (what I use with the NiFe70/30 26-28AWG) I opened and rinsed the tank, coil and wick with tap water. I then just filled the tank with tap water and adjusted the TCR until the temperature was reading ~212F.

Since this was a dual coil build I was hitting it with 30W of power. Each time I fired it for ~5 seconds and the temperature would hover very steady at some value other than the 400F that I had it set to. I would repeat once or twice each time before re-adjusting the TCR value.

I like Zivipf's wire and this was the 1st time I had used the thicker wire. I finally gave up and wound two NiFe48/52 26AWG coils and they worked as expected. I have not tried the 24AWG NiFe70/30 in another tank as of yet. I have a few on order I'll try it again on.

Since I was able to get a build to work in the tank I'm doubting the wire more than the tank or the build.

 

[DrOrpheus]

Got NiFe 48 from zifi a couple days ago, and so far - pretty disappointing, especially in TC (with 52 profile from steam-engine on DNA 200, with pre-heat turned off). Tried 24 and 26 AWG dual coils ( contact at first, then spaced). Last build: dual spaced 26 AWG 0.15 Ohms 8 wraps around 3mm bit. Gone as high as 480 F, but it throttles around 25 Watts. Little vapor, little flavor, every time.
Also there were some ash flakes or something after dry burning, I assume from paper towels (after rinsing the rda), because I cleaned it with isopropanol beforehand, but it's the first time with any wire from what I remember.
So, anyone can help me with getting it to work, some proven builds or TCR profiles?

 

[GeorgeS]

The Nife 48/52 is about all I use anymore. TCR=404 dialed into ether Joytech or YiHi powered devices almost always provides a great vape. I use both contact and spaced (wound on machine screw) coils. You do have to dry burn the contact coils and work out any hot spots before wicking.

I mainly use rope these days. When performance starts to fall off, I'll pull the deck and wick - dryburn off any residue and sometimes just rethread the wick back in, prime and go on about my vaping.

Getting an even inside-to-outside glow is required and matching the glow in dual coils is a must when TC vaping. I'll usually match the rope/coil so that I'll have to 'screw' the rope into/through the coil so its fairly snug. I usually wind 2.5mm ID coils for the tanks I have. (the larger ID and thicker wire require more power then I generally like using)

 

[Jonnytc1]

The Nife 48/52 is about all I use anymore. TCR=404 dialed into ether Joytech or YiHi powered devices almost always provides a great vape. I use both contact and spaced (wound on machine screw) coils. You do have to dry burn the contact coils and work out any hot spots before wicking.

I mainly use rope these days. When performance starts to fall off, I'll pull the deck and wick - dryburn off any residue and sometimes just rethread the wick back in, prime and go on about my vaping.

Getting an even inside-to-outside glow is required and matching the glow in dual coils is a must when TC vaping. I'll usually match the rope/coil so that I'll have to 'screw' the rope into/through the coil so its fairly snug. I usually wind 2.5mm ID coils for the tanks I have. (the larger ID and thicker wire require more power then I generally like using)

Great advice
Is it considered safe to dry burn NiFe48?
Just wondering as it's so high in nickel content?

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[GeorgeS]

Great advice
Is it considered safe to dry burn NiFe48?
Just wondering as it's so high in nickel content?

I know of no issues with dry burning NiFe. In fact besides being a bit less "springy" than my Ti01 supply, worry free dry burn is why I use it.

 

[Jonnytc1]

I know of no issues with dry burning NiFe. In fact besides being a bit less "springy" than my Ti01 supply, worry free dry burn is why I use it.

Now that's what I like to hear
Thanks

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[jazzvaper]

Great advice
Is it considered safe to dry burn NiFe48?
Just wondering as it's so high in nickel content?

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Substitute the word "pulse" for dry-burn and you will be in great shape.

My go to's these days are 8-wrap 26 at 0.18 Ω and 10-wrap 24 at 0.14 Ω on 3 mm.

I fell in love with 27 awg for a while but 24 and 26 produce predictable results that are dead on. BTW, if I read correctly, you are the second person with trouble using a Cuboid. I use either the DNA 200 (with preheat), observing the build characteristics in eScribe, or, VF SX 350. The latter fires hotter...

Nothing at all out of sorts with NiFe 52 from Zivipf. So, keep at it and post your results.

 

[Jonnytc1]

Substitute the word "pulse" for dry-burn and you will be in great shape.

My go to's these days are 8-wrap 26 at 0.18 Ω and 10-wrap 24 at 0.14 Ω on 3 mm.

I fell in love with 27 awg for a while but 24 and 26 produce predictable results that are dead on. BTW, if I read correctly, you are the second person with trouble using a Cuboid. I use either the DNA 200 (with preheat), observing the build characteristics in eScribe, or, VF SX 350. The latter fires hotter...

Nothing at all out of sorts with NiFe 52 from Zivipf. So, keep at it and post your results.

No I don't use a cuboid.
Ive been using DNA200'S for a good while though.
I'm not really liking any wires for TC right now so NiFe48 is my next try.
Yes I'll probably just gently pulse with a very low glow me thinks.
Cheers

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[DrOrpheus]

So, NiFe. I made a new build, this time on a screw. And it seems I found out where those black flakes were coming from. After pulsing it on low wattage a couple of times, I put in cotton, and noticed that there were a couple black dots on the cotton after pulling it through the coil. So I scraped a coil with a screwdriver, and there was a thin dark film that can be scraped off (but not easily). There is none on non dry-burned wire.
So, wtf, it can't be normal, right? It can't oxidize this much from a few pulses?
Here's a photo

 

[Jonnytc1]

So, NiFe. I made a new build, this time on a screw. And it seems I found out where those black flakes were coming from. After pulsing it on low wattage a couple of times, I put in cotton, and noticed that there were a couple black dots on the cotton after pulling it through the coil. So I scraped a coil with a screwdriver, and there was a thin dark film that can be scraped off (but not easily). There is none on non dry-burned wire.
So, ..., it can't be normal, right? It can't oxidize this much from a few pulses?
Here's a photo

Awww this isn't sounding good.
If NiFe48 doesn't work out, I think I'll be giving up on TC [emoji22]

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