TC Builds and Troubleshooting

[cobalt327]

Did you maybe mean to say point 23? Because I didn't think TP would recognize a 2.3 ohm build- but I could be mistaken...

ETA, 8-32 would be between 9/64" and 5/32" (a bit over 3.5mm), 6-32 is between 7/64" and 1/8" (a little over 3mm).

FWIW, there's a theory going around (that I also subscribe to), that going to the higher side, ohms-wise, is preferable to the low side when using TP. The idea is, variations in resistance will have less impact on higher ohm builds.

 

[HolmanGT]

Built my first ni200 spaced coil. Came in at 2.3 ohms. 10 wraps of 28 gauge on a 8-32 machine screw. Might be too big. The hole through the center looks enormous. Should I try a 6-32 screw? Wish I had a TP mod to try it on. View attachment 419468 Got in on a pre-buy on the ipv4, but who knows when that will ship. Supposedly first of April.

HD

10 wraps of 28 ga should be more like 0.15. are you sure those numbers are correct. You might want to check with "Steam Engine.com".

 

[HDMontana]

Yeah, it's .23. Picture has the reading on it. Like I mentioned, its a big coil. I would guess cobalt is right on the approximate 3.5 mm. I use 2.8 mm kanthal coils and this one is much bigger. Might be too big. Would suck a lot of juice and probably cause gurgling.

HD

 

[HolmanGT]

Yeah, it's .23. Picture has the reading on it. Like I mentioned, its a big coil. I would guess cobalt is right on the approximate 3.5 mm. I use 2.8 mm kanthal coils and this one is much bigger. Might be too big. Would suck a lot of juice and probably cause gurgling.

HD

I personally use 3 to 3.5 mm for all my single coil Atty(s). With a large coil ID I don't have to worry if for some crazy reason I decide to chain vape. The only time I user smaller is on something like my Foggers and that is only because the build deck is pretty small.

 

[HDMontana]

So, after a little more research, I found that a 1/8" drill bit just slides into the middle. 9/64 too big. Steam engine says it should come out at .15 ohms. Either my ohms meter is off or it's the conductivity of the Kayfun V4 clone. I did sand down both ends of the spring to try to get better contact. Like I said, I'm just practicing for when the TP device arrives.

HD

 

[HolmanGT]

So, after a little more research, I found that a 1/8" drill bit just slides into the middle. 9/64 too big. Steam engine says it should come out at .15 ohms. Either my ohms meter is off or it's the conductivity of the Kayfun V4 clone. I did sand down both ends of the spring to try to get better contact. Like I said, I'm just practicing for when the TP device arrives.

HD

If you search for KF4 springs and TP problems and solutions... there are solution so don't go ballistic. There is some method to not even use the spring. Wish I could come up with a link but I am sure you will find the posts on how to resolve the problem.

Also on your ohm meter I don't know what you are using but none that I have are much good when you are down in the milliohm range. They will be close but a few tenths of an ohm is a lot when it comes Ni200 build.

Actually I wouldn't worry too much about the coil you have when you plug it into your TP device you will probably find out it is much lower than the 2.4 you got with your ohm meter. Albeit 0.23 ohms is very acceptable remember the DNA40 PDF says 0.4 as a mean range. That said you will find a lot of folks shoot for 0.15.

Anyway wait until you get your TP before you pitch any coils and use Steam Engine that is probably the most accurate calculator for coil building around and you can also get a copy of it on your smartphone if you want.

 

[jazzvaper]

[Snipped]

Anyway wait until you get your TP before you pitch any coils and use Steam Engine that is probably the most accurate calculator for coil building around and you can also get a copy of it on your smartphone if you want.

But only for Android, not iOS.


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[HolmanGT]

But only for Android, not iOS.


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Sorry I didn't know that. My phone is Android and when I saw the phone app I just grabbed it. Tell ya the truth it is a lot easier on a laptop anyway.

 

[jazzvaper]

Now for a bit of truth telling:

The clones (plural) suffer from deficits the authentic does not have. The least of these deficits is the spring.

Amazing how mythology originates and is passed around.

The authentic does not suffer from:

1. Crunchy threads, particularly the thread that give the Juice Control optimal functionality. Nothing can fix that..,

2. Part # 10 may, or not, be properly installed. Check YT for the Tobeco K4 "fix". The fix puts the clone nearly on par.

3. The 510 screw has to be placed such that it gives a reliable reading, time after time. Or, you can seek out the correct position and reposition as necessary (compare your ohm reader to the mod's reading and adjust accordingly). The authentic is delivered in the right position.

4. The upper and lower part of the build deck should screw down smoothly. If they do not,?try 90 degree turns (drop in, test, repeat) until the two parts go together as smoothly as the atty allows. You may not reach the perfection of the authentic. But you will have consistently more reliable TC ohm readings...

5. Having "fixed" 1-4 you may now consider the spring options. SM has released a gold plated version. "Cop" one of them! Or, you can work the JC until the spring is more predictable...

When you're done tearing your hair out...spring for the authentic!! Pun intended.




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[HDMontana]

Thanks for the replies. I have a little time before the TP mod showes up. I checked a kanthal build, 1.3 ohms, on the meter and one of my mods and both register the same. At least it is reading correctly there. I'm not too worried right now. I was happy with how well the machine screw worked with the coil spacing on my first try. Maybe I will try another on one of my Kayfun 3.1's and see what it reads. I searched for a supplier of the gold spring within the states, but so far, no luck. Maybe in a few weeks. Thanks again for the suggestions and help.

HD

 

[Pocha]

But only for Android, not iOS.


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The mobile version of the Steam Engine website works good on my iPhone. May not be a separate app but works great for me.

 

[BlueridgeDog]

I only use the machine screw for nickel as I still make micro coils for kanthal (not for me as all my atys are now nickel). I would like to find a left handed assortment of machine screws.

 

[peraspera]

I only use the machine screw for nickel as I still make micro coils for kanthal (not for me as all my atys are now nickel). I would like to find a left handed assortment of machine screws.

It might be simpler to use a Coil Master. I've used mine to wrap spaced coils. Wrapping either direction is equally easy. Place two wires side by side, wrap and unwind one after you are done winding to leave a single spaced coil.

 

[jazzvaper]

BTW, thanks to the person(s) who discovered the feature that most distinguishes the authentic K4 from the clones (replicas and counterfeits). I ordered a second from VapeRev (on sale in the USA, now cheaper than the cheapest in the EU).

Otherwise those with both could be confused.


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[jazzvaper]

[Snipped] I searched for a supplier of the gold spring within the states, but so far, no luck. Maybe in a few weeks. Thanks again for the suggestions and help.
HD

I ordered the "Kayfun V4 - Spare Kit 1 w/Gold-Plated Spring". It arrived today. Sure enough it contains the promised gold spring. Order it here: http://www.vapinart.com/cart/Kayfun-V4-Spare-Kit-1-wGold-Plated-Spring-P1771.aspx

 

[HDMontana]

I ordered the "Kayfun V4 - Spare Kit 1 w/Gold-Plated Spring". It arrived today. Sure enough it contains the promised gold spring. Order it here: http://www.vapinart.com/cart/Kayfun-V4-Spare-Kit-1-wGold-Plated-Spring-P1771.aspx

Thanks for the link. I already have 4 rebuild kits for the version 4, but I see they sell the gold springs seperate. Might have too pick up a couple to see if they help. Thanks again.

HD

 

[HDMontana]

I ended up ordering 4 gold springs. I hope they work better than the original silver ones.

HD

 

[Rikk]

I ended up ordering 4 gold springs. I hope they work better than the original silver ones.

HD

4 Springs should last you a while I hope. Do we have any idea what the life expectancy of these springs should be?

I gotta say what's saved nickel building for me has been this tempered nickel. I'm using 30ga to keep my spaced coil sizes small, and my builds are very predictable and stable now. It also makes wicking very easy. What a huge difference over annealed for me.

 

[HDMontana]

4 Springs should last you a while I hope. Do we have any idea what the life expectancy of these springs should be?

I gotta say what's saved nickel building for me has been this tempered nickel. I'm using 30ga to keep my spaced coil sizes small, and my builds are very predictable and stable now. It also makes wicking very easy. What a huge difference over annealed for me.

Not sure of the life expectancy. I have 3 Kayfun V4's, so I thought I would try one or two of the springs and keep the others as backups. Will probably only use them in the ones with nickel builds. The silver ones are working fine with kanthal coils. Just have to wait for my TP mod to arrive. Did a prebuy on the IPV4.

HD

 

[tc1]

Anyone able to achieve 25+ watts on a RDA @ 400-420 degrees without reaching temp control nearly instantly?

This is the one thing I've yet been able to do. I've tried larger ID coils ... thicker and thinner strips of cotton ... different wrap counts ... etc etc. Seems almost impossible to vape at those temperatures while using higher watts, ESPECIALLY if you are chain vaping.

I use high VG juices btw.