The “Cola” Method Taken to Another Level That Works

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I am thinking that when we market this stuff (joking), we can have it glow so users can see their trusted coil getting nice n shiny as it happens. When the light goes out, it's done.

Exogenesis - does it really work? So cheap !

These threads are a bit like your lab it's true. Maybe a tidy up or summary or something can be done when moved to the new science (some call it speculation, he he) forum.
 
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parapo

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Nov 23, 2008
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ok, some news on the acid.

i had 2 atomizer in phosphoric acid 85% for 24 hours.
first thing i could see was the acid had a yellowish color.

rinsing wasn't that easy. the acid is thick and i had it under running water for about 5 minutes,but there was always a sour taste when licking the atomizer.
it may needed some boiling too,but i couldn't wait so i started testing....

visually it was definitely cleaner. the bridge was shining and i could see a small clean piece of the coil.

vapor production is like new on both.
but one of the atomizer had a "cart to coil flow" problem which wasn't fixed.
(a new cart last only 3 puffs,only excessive liquid goes to the coil)
so i guess the problem is something else,and not cleaning related.

phosphoric acid and H2O2works. period.
if anyone say it didn't work for him,his atomizer didn't need cleaning.



....thanks for the award exogenesis...
 
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Sun Vaporer

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Is anyone else finding that atomizers with PG residue are harder to clean than VG residue?

For me, VG came clean after 24 hours in Nu-Calgon, but the PG has been in twice that long & still not completely clean.

Tin Cup--In the experiments that Terraphon and I did, those atomizers were only used with VG. So there may well be a difference when cleaning----Sun
 
parapo - use a small stick or similar to measure the depth of the top of the metal bridge to the top of the tube. I suspect the atomiser with the feed problem will have a bridge that is too deep and barely touching the cart, if at all. In this case, some long-nose pliers can be used to gently grab the bridge and pull the atomiser up fully; it will stop sliding up at about 7-8mm depth.

tin-cup - was the flavor same in both cases or was the PG based one a tobacco flavor?
 
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parapo

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parapo - use a small stick or similar to measure the depth of the top of the metal bridge to the top of the tube. I suspect the atomiser with the feed problem will have a bridge that is too deep and barely touching the cart, if at all. In this case, some long-nose pliers can be used to gently grab the bridge and pull the atomiser up fully; it will stop sliding up at about 7-8mm depth.


the bridge is touching the cart.
 
One can use a small stick or similar to measure the depth of the top of the metal bridge to the top of the tube. I suspect the atomiser with the feed problem will have a bridge that is too deep and barely touching the cart, if at all. In this case, some long-nose pliers can be used to gently grab the bridge and pull the atomiser up fully; it will stop sliding up at about 7-8mm depth.

It can happen that the inner atomiser is not pushed fully in when it is manufactured, so it always worth checking this if the juice feed from a cart seems to have a problem.
 

exogenesis

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Would this work, do you think? link
or this?

Interesting

Looking up NU-Calgon's msds list
Nu-Calgon: MSDS

NU-Calgon 4291-18 Alkaline Based Coil Cleaner:
seems to be sodium hydroxide + 'environmentally friendly' detergent based.
It might work as a hot soak, but would probably leave solids in the wick,
probably no different to straight hot caustic (which I wouldn't recommend, due to the precipitates)

NU-Calgon 4168-05 Coil Cleaner:
Some new chemicals (to atomizer cleaning) in there,
Ethylene glycol monobutyl ether
Sodium xylene sulphonate
(Alcohols)

Wonder which of these is expected to clean the coil?,
don't fancy vaping any residual amounts of the second one,
otherwise known as Benzenesulfonic acid.

Good ideas though.
 

exogenesis

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Have been looking closely at the effect of 85% phos. acid on two significantly
'carbonised' coil/wicks (removed from casings).

Over 24 hours:
bubbles forming slowly - needs to be swirled occasionally to get greatest bubbling.
de-colourisation not really happening, unlike SunV's picture,
tarnishing of copper wires.
No deterioation of metal mesh wick.

Thinking that 85% is too concentrated & too viscous.
The 25 or 35% stuff may well be more effective.
 
Exogenesis - apparently the 85% is much thicker than the 75% and is about as concentrated as it can be. I estimate 20% to be cola equivalent so the 35% seems a good bet, with heat. Would be much more suitable for general use too.

The H2O2 really stings bad if one has a cut or sore on the skin; that probably applies to strong acids too.

How about testing citric acid (as strong as you can make a solution; usually comes as a powder)?

Those chemicals do seem odd that Kendra referred to and I have looked at those before with some puzzlement. I wonder what more they would do than say VG or ethanol or isopropanol?

The copper wires are coated in enamel (mine are reddish) - perhaps that accounts for the discoloring, which hence is not important.
 
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Tin Cup

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tin-cup - was the flavor same in both cases or was the PG based one a tobacco flavor?




Kinabaloo - Various flavors, mostly Johnson Creek, on both the PG and VG. I tore both atomizers apart and cut the braid/wick off, so I could get a good look at the heating coil.

Mine (the PG one) is still not completely clean after 2-1/2 days soaking. A friend of mine gave me his VG one, and it cleaned up in 24 hours.

This is using Nu-Calgon (regular) Liquid Ice Machine Cleaner.

Hope this helps some. Thanks for your work, we're all still waiting for the "perfect" solution.

TC
 
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StoneE4

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Mar 20, 2009
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...use a small stick or similar to measure the depth of the top of the metal bridge to the top of the tube. I suspect the atomiser with the feed problem will have a bridge that is too deep and barely touching the cart, if at all. In this case, some long-nose pliers can be used to gently grab the bridge and pull the atomiser up fully; it will stop sliding up at about 7-8mm depth...

Outstanding... :thumb: I was just about to start a thread (a search didn't reveal anything) asking how far down the tube the bridge should be on a 901. I recently got some new atomizers and I figured they were damaged because most of their bridges are way too low.

Using the lowest edge of the cart as a reference point, how much farther down should the base of the bridge be (again, these are 901 s)?
 
TinCup - the reason for asking more detail is that ultimately we need to work out if the varrier - VG / PG - does play any part in deposit formation, directly or indirectly, so all 'evidence' is useful, although in this case there are complicating factors. Over time such info may throe up a pattern and a suggestion for a test.

My latest thinking on possible VG breakdown is that breakdown is unlikely and neither PG or VG contribute to the deposit. I think it is all from undistilled water, flavorings (dry deposit) and dust etc in the air.

Everyone - the metal bridge pulls out (and can be pushed back) without needing to be cut/broke off, although getting it back while the inner atomiser is still in the tube would be tricky.
 
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StoneE4 - they slide in from other end (battery end) to a stop ring, but sometimes are not pushed in that far. You can only pull up the inner atomiser till the correct position (on my version of the 901 anyway) which is about *** mm from top of tube. Can't find my measure, but i seem to remember it is about 7-8mm.

edit (add): It should be slightly less than ((the length that the inner cartridge extends out of the outer catridge + 2mm)).

Because the bridge can pull out, it might not pull up the whole inner atomiser, although it did so ok for me. An alternative would be to push from battery end. If do grip the metal bridge dont do so too tightly as a layer might come off (not too bad if it does as there are several more layers).
 
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