Hey Cloud, I would PM Bert and see what he says. He and the team are in the works making glass tops for the iHy.
Might be a viable solution, but one tip-over and good bye glass top!
The Pyrex SS hybrid Wick
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Might be a viable solution, but one tip-over and good bye glass top!
My 2 cents, after almost a week of ScubaCoil...
Unless a good way is found to optimize this concept, and do it safely - without having to design a new atomizer around it, or resort to some possibly dangerous side-effects - the benfits may not be worth it.
Two important things I feel that need the most consideration are: one - getting the air to mix correctly to alleviate the harshness and improve the flavor/vapor without cooling the coil; and two - getting rid of the delay required to get the mesh up to temperature.
I, for one, am not keen on the idea of buying a new atty - I've spent enough on what I've got and I'm sure that Zen or true DID owners would rather have something that works without having to buy another or modify their existing set-ups.
We've all done a lot of speculating without much actual testing. We've also thrown around a numerous amount of ideas and that is good.
If we can nail down the two main issues and do it for existing devices, the new atty designs will follow - and other improvements, as well.
Unless a good way is found to optimize this concept, and do it safely - without having to design a new atomizer around it, or resort to some possibly dangerous side-effects - the benfits may not be worth it.
Two important things I feel that need the most consideration are: one - getting the air to mix correctly to alleviate the harshness and improve the flavor/vapor without cooling the coil; and two - getting rid of the delay required to get the mesh up to temperature.
I, for one, am not keen on the idea of buying a new atty - I've spent enough on what I've got and I'm sure that Zen or true DID owners would rather have something that works without having to buy another or modify their existing set-ups.
We've all done a lot of speculating without much actual testing. We've also thrown around a numerous amount of ideas and that is good.
If we can nail down the two main issues and do it for existing devices, the new atty designs will follow - and other improvements, as well.
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Would need a diamond-tip grinding wheel and note also:
Personally, I don't like that glass in the lungs bit...
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OK, since everything is pretty much up in the air again, there are watchmaker sapphire tubes that are very VERY small and thin walled. Any potential there?
http://www.swissjewel.com/2/tubes/
http://www.swissjewel.com/2/tubes/
That could work, but not sure if it would minimize the potential for cracking due to heat. BTW, I'm not about shooting down anybody's ideas - the more discussion, the better, but I feel that anything like paint or ceramic epoxies and the like are just something I would not want to be heating and inhaling
. No matter what the MSDS sheet says.
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I just wanted to share my "Survival" PV ScubaQu Concept
-6600mah Li-Po Battery (3S-2200)
-30ml Tank
-20 Watt DNA-20 Power System (Not released - guessed on size & etc)
-ScubaQu Atty
Not sure if I will want to keep the atty right under the tip.....probably will have several holes to try different locations
-6600mah Li-Po Battery (3S-2200)
-30ml Tank
-20 Watt DNA-20 Power System (Not released - guessed on size & etc)
-ScubaQu Atty
Not sure if I will want to keep the atty right under the tip.....probably will have several holes to try different locations
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/battery-mods/316572-quigsworth-hybrid-v1.html
Pretty simple, take my Quigsworth Hybrid and make 8 more atty's...each one hold 20 ml, will all be wicked and coiled...pull the mouth piece, snap out the atty and snap a different flavour in...I'm lovin' this thing...
View attachment 124387
View attachment 124384
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Nice!
Did you have any issues wicking all the way up to the atty when the juice level is low?
I'm a little worried about wicking a long distance.
Not mine, so no idea if there were/are any wicking issues. Haven't seen Quigsworth in this thread (yet).
Beta v0.3.0 of the 'metal clad with paint coat' is now up and going.
I procured a 1/8" diameter piece of aluminum tubing today and made about 10 'clads' of various lengths...around 3/16". I painted them with 2 coats of high temp paint and baked them at 400 degrees for a little over an hour. I wound a 30 ga. coil which registers 2.1 Ohms. ...very tedious getting it 'just so.' ...much effort was made in getting as much contact with the clad as I could. The +/- 3/32" wick is firm in the clad.
It works and is vaping now. While it takes a few moment to get going at 3 Volts, it does go. It needs some breaking in. Lag seems significantly improved over the 3/16" clad with additional wraps for the top of the wick. However, that setup was improving quite a bit in the quality of the vape and I had it up to 6 Volts at around 4 Ohms. The 1/8" clad does seem to produce more quickly than did the 3/16". The 3/16" clad/coil setup had starting producing some buildup around the base. I disappointed myself by not attempting a dry burn before taking it off the atty.
I procured a 1/8" diameter piece of aluminum tubing today and made about 10 'clads' of various lengths...around 3/16". I painted them with 2 coats of high temp paint and baked them at 400 degrees for a little over an hour. I wound a 30 ga. coil which registers 2.1 Ohms. ...very tedious getting it 'just so.' ...much effort was made in getting as much contact with the clad as I could. The +/- 3/32" wick is firm in the clad.
It works and is vaping now. While it takes a few moment to get going at 3 Volts, it does go. It needs some breaking in. Lag seems significantly improved over the 3/16" clad with additional wraps for the top of the wick. However, that setup was improving quite a bit in the quality of the vape and I had it up to 6 Volts at around 4 Ohms. The 1/8" clad does seem to produce more quickly than did the 3/16". The 3/16" clad/coil setup had starting producing some buildup around the base. I disappointed myself by not attempting a dry burn before taking it off the atty.
Quigs mentioned that in the 500 mesh thread, said it got harder as it got low, but better with 500 IIRC.
Lab test showed a tightly rolled 80mm 500 mesh would wick 3 1/2 inches above the liquid.
Great....Thanks for the info!
The funny thing is that the wick I modeled was exactly 3.5"
Here's a stainless thin-wall tube with a 1mm ID. I've applied a thin coat of vitreous enamel to the outside wall. This creates an effective barrier with no shorting. It puffs out vapour quite well (after taking a moment to heat up).
I heated the enamel powder coat over the gas hob and it's a very tough surface baked onto the stainless (sand paper won't touch it). It seems to me that this section could be completely isolated from vapour intake - making it safe to use.
I heated the enamel powder coat over the gas hob and it's a very tough surface baked onto the stainless (sand paper won't touch it). It seems to me that this section could be completely isolated from vapour intake - making it safe to use.
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