The Pyrex SS hybrid Wick

[JPoodles]

My apologies if someone else has come up with this idea. I haven't read all of this thread, but I thought of this last night.

One tube inside another with a coil wrapped inside the inner surface of the inner tube. The inner tube is sealed at the top.

Either mesh or cotton to somehow coat the surface of the inner tube with juice. I'll leave that up to you.

The juice vaporizes off the hot surface of the inner tube.

Like juice being vaporized on the surface of a lightbulb.

The outside tube can be insulating to keep the heat where it's needed. Ceramic?

Problem is, where to enter the coil into the inner tube? And how to coil it inside? Perhaps the inner tube top could be unsealed and protrude above the outer tube with the coil dropped in.

Love Frisky Dingo by the way! Yeah the whole encapsulated coil has been discussed pretty thoroughly. New ideas are always considered-or at least I think they are. The discussion has fractured into three parts.
The original insulation "sleeve" idea-refer to page 1
The contained coil or "fuse" idea in which the wick surrounds the tubing/coil inside
3 chamber atty idea in which the vapor fills a seperate chamber.
I think thats the whole shabang-long read! But not as long as some of the innovating threads that some here have been a part of. My hats off to you guys! I'm still trying to wrap my head around software controlled e-cigs and I'm just glad I have a working prototype steaming away in my hands. The joystick looks cool on the Evic and it would give us the option to manually ramp up the volts to get our scuba-qs chain vaping and then take it down a notch and coast into a nice little session. Next on the horizon is a venturi bell drip tip I just know someones gonna link me

ps. There was also discussion of coated coils (enamel primarily)

 

[Wharf Rat]

I thought I'd share this ~

Not sure if I am allowed to post in the thread about the glass tubes over the wicks, but I want to let you see for yourself why flame polishing at home is a bad idea.

Pic 1... scored/snapped tube (Pic taken under polariscope...)

All those things on the end are cracks that can spread with minimal heat causing chips to become airborne ending up in your lungs


Pic 2... I flame polished smooth without annealing. (Pic taken under polariscope...)

Those dark/light bands going around the tube are permanent stress. When heat is added to the stress it can cause the glass to shatter as well.

Pic 3 will be the same tube under polariscope after it anneals. All of the stress will be gone, and the edges perfectly smooth.

Please spread the word so nobody hurts themselves. Just wanted to add a scientific approach to the r&d of these. It will only take one person getting hurt to ruin this fantastic development in the vaping world. Let's do this right!

I will also do a test where I put a charge through the coils wrapped around the tube so they heat it up, then I will remove the tube and look at it under the polariscope again to see how badly the coils stress the glass (if at all)

NP, just trying to keep it safe. By the way, take a pair of 3D glasses from the movie theatre, put them on, and look at clear glass with your flatscreen computer monitor as a background. Tilt the screen, or your head and the stress should show up. It's the poor man's polariscope.

 

[JazzyTech]

I thought I'd share this ~

I agree. Exactly what opponents of the e-cig movement could use against us: Another blown out of proportion acticle of a vaper getting hurt with glass schrapnel. Safety first!

 

[JPoodles]

I thought I'd share this ~

Do you know if ceramic acts the same way? I know its different fusion but I wonder about surface fractures and flaking. Some people are using fused quartz instead of pyrex- does it follow suit ?

 

[LucidAce]

I have my doubts about it handling the kind of power we'd want, but here's a ready-made solution to the problem of wanting different power outputs at different times in the drag. The Janty MiD

EDIT: It claims to do 0 - 8v, up to 24 watts, and 0 to 4 amps; hmmmmm

 

[SinisterRaccoon]

I have my doubts about it handling the kind of power we'd want, but here's a ready-made solution to the problem of wanting different power outputs at different times in the drag. The Janty MiD

EDIT: It claims to do 0 - 8v, up to 24 watts, and 0 to 4 amps; hmmmmm

Interesting... Dunno if its $140 interesting for a pre order yet tho. Ive done some programming dealing with the ardunio and atmel chips and wonder how big a task it would be to setup a chip with the ability to have v-vv...? Or just simple. Selectable profiles that allow the inital boost in power then throttle down after the initial power on. I dunno... Just a morning 'throne' ideal here. Back to bed for a bit.

Yes, I'm an evil raccoon.

 

[Jimi D.]

I received my thin walled pyrex tubes this week. I've noticed how fragile they are. That reminded me of an incident last year. My Wife was broiling steaks with a pyrex baking pan. We heard a loud noise in the oven. 500 degrees shattered that thick pyrex. Common sense tells me that an extremely hot coil on pyrex is a bad idea. Just saying.

 

[Dearth Vapir]

I received my thin walled pyrex tubes this week. I've noticed how fragile they are. That reminded me of an incident last year. My Wife was broiling steaks with a pyrex baking pan. We heard a loud noise in the oven. 500 degrees shattered that thick pyrex. Common sense tells me that an extremely hot coil on pyrex is a bad idea. Just saying.

One thing I've noticed (and also read IIRC), is that the thicker the Pyrex/glass, the more prone to heat stress fractures it is - with a thicker piece there's more distance/volume of glass over which to develop a temperature difference, and the differing expansion levels across that volume of glass shatter or crack the glass - thinner walled pieces are supposed to be less susceptible - I haven't looked this up recently or anything so it's just from memory, and logic would seem to back this up, and if it's the case the comparisons with heavy pyrex cookware are likely moot - do any of the glass pro's want to confirm or deny this for us?

DV

 

[mre777]

Another note on enameling, its stated as not recommended for use in food related products but in the email I received from Thompson says this is due to it not having been submitted for testing and FDA approval because it would cost a lot of money. Other then that is lead free and the pigment becomes encapsulated in the glass so the main worries is chipping and cracking (no one wants glass dust in their lungs) but im sure if the right application process where applied it would be safe. I have got some of the powder in and will be testing on applying it with a simple butane torch directly on mesh wick and coil coatings. Will post when I have time to play with this.

 

[TBinAZ]

Update:

Ok, this stuff is tiny, but very hearty. It's some pretty tough stuff. Very hard to get a straight etch and fully square end. I doubt that tube cutting tools will work very well with this. I will do my best to file the ends and clean them up, but lengths most likely will not be exact. I have seen the warning posts from the glass experts regarding stress cracks, chipping, and what-not compromising the glass structure. Personally, after working with this stuff for a little bit, I'm not convinced that it will be an issue, but then again, it could be. So that being said, if anyone wants to back out of this offering and wait for the new co-op to mature, then let me know as soon as you can.

As a side note, once etched, this stuff is fairly easy to snap even in very small pieces. The key is proper leverage. A small crescent wrench with the clamping surfaces taped up with electrical tape, and then lightly snugged up to the tube wall, would work well to trim off tiny pieces to achieve your desired length. Wetting the score is also a big key.

 

[dsy5]

Update:

will do my best to file the ends and clean them up, but lengths most likely will not be exact. I have seen the warning posts from the glass experts regarding stress cracks, chipping, and what-not compromising the glass structure. Personally, after working with this stuff for a little bit, I'm not convinced that it will be an issue, but then again, it could be. So that being said, if anyone wants to back out of this offering and wait for the new co-op to mature, then let me know as soon as you can.

I woundn't bother trying to file the ends to clean them up - it might lead to stressing/microcracks. If need be, I will fire polish the ends.

I'm still in - just send them as is, no filing.

 

[TBinAZ]

I guess I misspoke. I meant sand the ends down a bit.

I woundn't bother trying to file the ends to clean them up - it might lead to stressing/microcracks. If need be, I will fire polish the ends.

I'm still in - just send them as is, no filing.

 

[Razriel]

I do not know if this was talked about earlier in the posts.

If you look a heater parts most of the heating wire is placed in side of a spiral tubing. If you get the spacing right on the spiral you should be able to get more air flow to the wick.

So you would run the wire *Say 30 gauge wire into the spiral # Tubing ID # and then run the SS wick in to the middle of the spiral # Coil ID #.
Just an idea.

Custom coils

 

[Killjoy1]

If a full co-op matures after we've all done our initial testing, I'm sure we could enlist the aid of one of the glass experts with cutting and annealing (for a fee, of course, I wouldn't expect free services on that large a scale). Just wanted to throw that out there in case somebody does organize a full co-op, personally I think it would be a good idea in that circumstance

 

[Killjoy1]

I do not know if this was talked about earlier in the posts.

If you look a heater parts most of the heating wire is placed in side of a spiral tubing. If you get the spacing right on the spiral you should be able to get more air flow to the wick.View attachment 156003
Just an idea.

Custom coils

Now that's a cool idea

 

[mre777]

Now that's a cool idea

I second that.

 

[Cool_Breeze]

Nice find!

 

[dsy5]

I don't think that the wire would be close enough to the glass to transfer the heat properly. Remember how we need to wrap the coil tightly to the glass?

 

[Big Screen D]

I do not know if this was talked about earlier in the posts.

If you look a heater parts most of the heating wire is placed in side of a spiral tubing. If you get the spacing right on the spiral you should be able to get more air flow to the wick.View attachment 156003

So you would run the wire *Say 30 gauge wire into the spiral # Tubing ID # and then run the SS wick in to the middle of the spiral # Coil ID #.
Just an idea.

Custom coils

Nice find. Looks like the smallest they list is .5mm tubing, with 5mm inner coil diameter. Larger than optimal, but probably small enough to at least prove the concept.

 

[VaporMizer]

Nice find. Looks like the smallest they list is .5mm tubing, with 5mm inner coil diameter. Larger than optimal, but probably small enough to at least prove the concept.

Yeah...that would only be something like .010" gap inside the tube depending on wire guage. So how would that work? Would you just thread the wire into the coiled tube to replace the coil? Man, that would be so easy if it worked!