Good job Bapgood- might be tricky setting up ssmesh wick without shorts but we're routin for ya! This baking soda taste takes a lil while to season(have played with it in past) but it works.
The Pyrex SS hybrid Wick
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Thanks, I'm mainly just messing around until my 635 mesh gets here. Just got my FQ today, so now I have all the options to try when I have some good mesh.
But about the grounding to the wick.....if the coil was truly insulated inside the needle and both leads ran out the top then the needle shouldn't ground against the wick. My thinking anyway
I donno, nickel might work...worth a shot maybe. If you can get something that is really insulative on a pair of needle-nose pliers (some ceramic tubes), you might be able to seal it quite well.
Sounds like it rockin' so far. Was thinking that maybe just heating the tube "in the middle" and bending/twisting it to seal end(s) without a wire or with a single wire. This would require a long enough piece to heat in the middle and have some to twist off.
To answer some questions....The coil is still measuring ~2ohms just outside the tube.....5 volts....it heats up pretty quick.....like d9mel said the legs will need to be short as the legs get hot, I think this is due to heat wanting to follow the easiest path out the ends....might not be a problem if the ends are sealed.
d9mel I like the socket idea....I was kind of thinking the same thing.....but with the needle I was thinking I could solder the bottom of the needle closed along with the bottom leg of the coil and use the needle instead of running wire back up the middle (cuz there isn't a lot of room up the middle
Are the end leads on yours res wire (these are all starting to run together in my head)? The socket idea sounds good but I have a suspicion that an unsealed connector in that environment would be pretty ify for keeping a good connection.
Couldn't you just crimp the bottom of the needle onto the wire? Would probably have to use a drill bit on it first to clean the baking soda out of the last mm or so of the ID.
Thanks but nah its not against the glass, i figured that with such a small airspace it will heat the whole thing pretty fast. Im hoping it wont pop from the heat, the longer one is 2.5mm OD and i may be drilling my DiD clone to make these work if they look promising. I Ordered another DiD clone so I'll have a spare to mod out to optimize this venture
Actually, not being directly against the glass might help keep it from wanting to deform the glass. If the theories about most of the heat being radiative, then you won't loose much in heat transfer. Still dig the "double helix" coil design to get both leads out of one end.
If it works OK, the baking soda could be removed from the outside and then the only BS (hee hee) left should be completely encased in the inside of the tube. If it's a problem.
Ah yes you are correct sir.Well at least it was supportive and not a slam so I don't have to eat too much crow
Oh yeah, another Q (full of 'em, aint I)...to bapgood:
You mentioned soldering the needle closed...how does one solder to SS?
What about trying D9mel's double helix coil design to get both leads on one end?
You mentioned soldering the needle closed...how does one solder to SS?
What about trying D9mel's double helix coil design to get both leads on one end?
Ah yes you are correct sir.Well at least it was supportive and not a slam so I don't have to eat too much crow
I did say I was thinking about using the needle body I one post and in that case it would need to be sodaoxided
I did say I was thinking about using the needle body I one post and in that case it would need to be sodaoxided
Actually, no...now this is cool...if the coil were attached on one end to the metal case then you could simply use the metal case and the SS mesh wrapped around it as the negative lead!
Successfully replicated Big Screen's method in a GV Birkshire CRT Rebuildable Atomizer and it tastes good but We really need to get this thing sealed up. juice hits the coil when tipped to much at an angle. and the top will get condensation sooner or later. Im off to bed now so you guys solve this before I come back tomorrow some time in the pm I think the JB will be set and Ill start testing on that.
c yall
but We really need to get this thing sealed up. juice hits the coil when tipped to much at an angle. and the top will get condensation sooner or later. Im off to bed now so you guys solve this before I come back tomorrow some time in the pm I think the JB will be set and Ill start testing on that.c yall
With some special solder.....Tig welder
On a more serious note....I guess it would be considered brazing or hard soldering but it could be done with silver hard solder.
I would like to see if I can find some 14 or 15 gauge needles and try the double helix wind.....I'm still keeping my eyes open for a non conductive vape safe sealer that can handle some heat for the ends
Hmmm, just a random thought. This is the first I have heard of the baking-soda oxidation technique. Has this been tried with a plain ss wick? - no glass or nothing, just standard Genesis setup.
I can't recall ever seeing anything posted as to whether it successfully stopped shorts or hot-spots on a naked wick.
I can't recall ever seeing anything posted as to whether it successfully stopped shorts or hot-spots on a naked wick.
Someone posted a video in this thread a ways back where a guy was running his coil through a small syringe needle and baking soda oxidizing.
Gee, I wonder who that could have been?
No, seriously, I mean if it supposedly worked that well on the ss tube, why wouln't it work on the wick itself? I don't have a problem with having to clean a coil once in a while, or the wick either. I want to eliminate hot-spots and shorts the easiest way possible. If the baking-soda would work on a naked ss wick, my setup wouldn't need the heat-stealing glass.
Gee, I wonder who that could have been?
No, seriously, I mean if it supposedly worked that well on the ss tube, why wouln't it work on the wick itself? I don't have a problem with having to clean a coil once in a while, or the wick either. I want to eliminate hot-spots and shorts the easiest way possible. If the baking-soda would work on a naked ss wick, my setup wouldn't need the heat-stealing glass.
Here is the video I was referring to
I Don't see why it wouldn't work on just the coil
Edit - fixed video link
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Evilgrim did resistance wire inside a needle and made that into a coil too.
With baking soda in the mesh directly, you are going to cut your juice with baking soda. Once word gets out on the street, your clientele is going up the block.
edit: yeah that is him, don't think he had anyone bite on this idea though. (wasn't this thread)
With baking soda in the mesh directly, you are going to cut your juice with baking soda. Once word gets out on the street, your clientele is going up the block.
edit: yeah that is him, don't think he had anyone bite on this idea though. (wasn't this thread)
Heard the b'soda + SS mesh thing mentioned before and it's supposed to work - guess you just make sure you've 'burned' it all off before wrapping your coils.
However, after weeks and weeks of struggling (failing!) to oxidise the 500# SS mesh (even tried the b'soda and it didn't help me at the time), I finally 'got it' about a week or so ago with just heat and water, and have managed 3 consecutive wicks first time, with very tightly wrapped coils (actually left shallow indents in the wick on the last one for my new AGA-T) - no shorts from very first firing, so I can't say the soda helps or not - I just heated the wick more than I had been doing - cooked it until it went fully black, and then plunged it under running water 3 or 4 times...
DV
DV
However, after weeks and weeks of struggling (failing!) to oxidise the 500# SS mesh (even tried the b'soda and it didn't help me at the time), I finally 'got it' about a week or so ago with just heat and water, and have managed 3 consecutive wicks first time, with very tightly wrapped coils (actually left shallow indents in the wick on the last one for my new AGA-T) - no shorts from very first firing, so I can't say the soda helps or not - I just heated the wick more than I had been doing - cooked it until it went fully black, and then plunged it under running water 3 or 4 times...
DV
DV
I've tried it on just the wick and just the coil and both left a bad bad taste. I wonder if doing an extensive juice curing would solve that. Instead of juice curing 3 times like some of us used to do to ready the wick. Why not juice cure like 10 or twenty times. Maybe that will solve the ickyness. I would try myself but have limited ssmesh left and no time to play (sent from work 
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